Don't post in this forum asking is there is a schematic or layout or info on XXX pedal.
There is a subforum setup for requests already. It is located here:
REQUESTS FORUM
Any requests posted here will be moved to proper sub forum, and I'll also make nasty remarks about your mother. :mrgreen:
also, if you have a problem with your build, post it in the WORKBENCH. these threads are for circuit analysis only. by all means, if you discover something we should...
Morecowbell, thanks for those great links you posted, but if they are all avaible from one location, it's better to just post that one link. If people are interested in discussion about this or that box, that can become a separate thread.
They are all in the $59-159 price range! Anybody has more info on this brand, we're still waiting for the english version of the website..
It would have been a good deal at 10.00 but the postage got it close to 30.00
Still I've always liked the Rat's , not a connoisseur of rats , though while they are not subtle
I do like the evenness of the distortion , this one sounds o.k. to me. Diode switch for leds which
light on the top a couple marked 1N60 and three
4148 socket for the I.C. no smd , Did they rip off rat directly?
I've been pulling my hair for some time on this vintage Ibanez AD-80. Originally it created the effect, but the effect would die off after maybe 30 seconds. When checking the voltage, something was shorted and pulling the voltage down. I managed to do something to fix the voltage draw (it was awhile back, may have been an IC pulling it, I don't recall), but the pedal wouldn't produce the effect. I put away for awhile until recently when I gave it another go. I have sockets on all of the ICs, so...
I only traced part of this pedal as I did a rehouse of it for a friend.
I hoped the main PCB (the one with the potmeters on it) could work without the big other board, the one with the jacks and the switch. As it did too much I just left that one too in the new enclosure.
There is a ribbon cable going from one board to the other. I added that in the schematic. I left the switching of the 4053 out of the schematic.
This pedal is a Turkish pedal made by the pickup builder MAStex (pickups for Saz and Bouzouki). I got it in as it didn't work anymore. There was some terrible work done on the pedal and, well, everything was connected to everything. And that does'nt work.
I'm starting my first RAT build. Very useful all posts on this board, the Electrosmash analysis ( ), and the Multirat schematics.
One thing keeps me wondering though, and that's the FET doing the volume control/buffering. It's exactly this remark:
The 1M BIAS-R for the FET wired from gate to ground is a bit uncommen with a 2N5458, this wiring is often used in RATs with BF245 in the buffer circuit.
I've come across this source: , which mentions the challenge of this type of design in...
Found this nice effect; was already a fan of the EHX Hot Tubes (CMOS version) so I couldn't leave this alone.
The tone from the box was just terrible......... Could not imagine that someone would like that...... and then considering that some bought it for this........
Standard schematic:
Snarling Dogs - Black dog.JPG
So I modded it to Hot Tubes specs:
Snarling Dogs - Black dog MOD1.JPG
But ended up with this pedal:
Snarling Dogs - Black dog MOD2.JPG
Hello, I watched some video of this Fuzz/Distortion pedal, and I am very curious about it.
But I cannot find any gutshot pictures, nor any clue about schematic.
I just imagine the bass-treble eq is a baxandall type, but nothing else.
I traced this one a few months ago and never got around to putting the schematic up here. The only thing that bothers me is how the 9v supply is hooked up to the cathode of the bypass LED. I still have the box but the owner is not willing to desolder the caps to find the values. Any way to measure them in circuit to get a rough idea of what the are? In my experience NP0/C0G caps are usually lighter in color....like a grey and the X7R caps are a darker brown so that's how I marked them on the...
Figured I’d give Smitty a little love. I’ve had this since 2006 maybe. It’s a tone bender mk 1.5 clone and a damn good one at that. Talk about clean up.
I'm posting this as a reference to save some heartache for any other poor souls that stumble on a vintage Boss pedal and think there's something wrong with it.
A little background:
I have a very early BOSS PH-1
The lot number stamped under the battery door is 7200, which I believe corresponds to July of 1978, only 9 months into production.
The PCB number etched on the foil of the circuit board is 052-283B
I had an issue where the LED wouldn't latch when using the effect. It would illuminate...
I read somewhere that this was a bd-2 clone or variant. Looks and sounds like a modded blues breaker with more distortion. There’s alot of gain in tap. I was suprised to see the two trim pots when I opened it up. Suprised they went through the trouble of sending the ic as well. Not sure if I’m gonna keep it or not As I don’t really need it and definitely doesn’t sound like a bd2 to me. Atleast not one I’ve played.
I have a PDS 20/20 that is driving me crazy. The delay effect timing is right, but the effect on the note itself flanges up and down like a wave. It's like rocking a pitch shifter back and forth. I have replaced the bad caps, checked all the transistors, and swapped around several of the ICs with no change. The voltage regulator is also tested fine. I have no idea where to look next.
This topic on MXR ISO brick includes some mentions of Ojai & includes a gut shot:
Schematic or IC datasheet for Ojai???
More gut shots of the Ojai here:
24V connector is EIAJ-05 (
24V input/loop board appears to just hold a Nichicon filter cap & (common mode, given 2 colours of wire?) inductor.
16 pin chip marked AJE BAC is probably a buck converter. Possibly controller only? Figuring out what this is should lead to a datasheet explaining 90% of the rest of it.
3 pin SOT connected to...
Got a weird one here. Digitech Whammy IV pedal doesn't alter the effect. When doing the factory reset, the LEDs cycle through the treadle's motion, so the opto-coupler is obviously registering. But then the effect is locked in the fully up position afterward. How can it be sending the treadle's motion but not changing the effect?
Opened this pedal to explore a possible modification and documented everything inside while I had it apart.
I was interested in modding the pedal to make the compression on/off switch into a footswitch. There didn't appear to be any visible traces in the bottom middle area of the pcb that would have to be cut out to make room for a footswitch. After seeing the other side of the pcb, there are 3 traces going to the bypass footswitch that pass through that area. These 3 traces could be re-routed...
I finally caved and bought a MojoMojo to trace (also to test out, but mostly to trace). I knew it was the same overall design & PCB as the Dark Matter which I traced about a year ago so I figured I might as well give it a go to see what the differences are.
I also wanted to test a claim TC Electronic made. They say ...the fact that we use a special circuit that ramps up the voltage to more than 3 - 4 times the amount of your typical drive pedals , it turns out this is a lie. The whole circuit...
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