Hi guys, I have looked into schematics etc. for attenuators such as the Weber MASS etc. and they seems fairly simple to build, but sourcing the often large wattage pots is very difficult here in the UK
I heard that a 100W RMS valve amp (when pushed) can exceed over 150W and even up to 180W depending on the conditions its operating on and the nature of the OT. Which would explain why to safely run an attenuator, it must be rated at least twice the output of your amp to avoid complications....
So I had this crazy idea while i was sleeping.
I always wanted a portable mini amp powered by batteries and with 2 channels, clean and overdriven.
Then I found out about ruby.
And then I thought, Well, I could use a dpdt to switch between active amplifier, and with different settings I would have a clean and a overdriven channel for sure! :D
I could also add a distortion pedal built in for increased flexibility.
ok, last night i had a bit of an experience. after mixing a sweet metal show at work, a drummer workmate and i decided to head over to the space to kick out the jams a bit. since i haven't played with anyone since my last band left a bad taste in my mouth over a year ago, i was quite psyched. so i pick up my head- a Traynor YBA-3- bring it down to his space, plug it in to an extension cord, then into the wall. plug in the cab, turn it on, and ...
ZZZZZZZTTTTTTT!!!!!!!!!!!
...and the lights go...
Hi guys, I'm building a preamp based on the Alembic F-2B. The only difference is that it will have one channel (hence one tube).
I came across a little problem, I will need two outputs so I can plug it to both channels of the poweramp.
At first i thought that a simple opamp buffer without a transformer would work but then I started to worry about ground loops.
Help me clear this thing up...as far as I know, both grounds would be the same as they come from the same device, am I right?
I'm GASsing for a new amp, and I was pretty well set on a Blackstar HT5 head. But the gut shots kinda scare me:
If you scroll down a bit, you'll see a PCB with about 500 components on it. What the hell could all that stuff be for? I mean this amp has a ton of features: two channels, effects loop, line outs, speaker cab emulation, headphone jack, and some kind of patented voicing control...but damn that's a lot of parts. And I wonder if all those ICs are for buffering the tone stack???
I've decided that I want to build a Matchless Lightning clone.
I've read that the transformers affect the sound of an amp quite a lot. Is it only the OT or does the choke and PT affect the sound too?
I found a set of transformers on ebay, and the seller claims that these are the OEM transformers for the Lightning. I've read elsewhere that West Labs made the transformers for the Matchless amps?
Here's a link to the ebay auction:
Last question: is it worth spending the $200 that these...
I saw in the description on the Diaz website that this circuit is patented so I searched for Diaz Reverb and there it was. Detailed schematic and all!
Here's a quick description I found from an owner on Harmony Central: I use a Diaz Vibramaster, it's a straight Fender outboard reverb combined with a Brownface style tremolo and Magnatone tube-drive Vibrato, all in one box. A leftover gain stage is used to give it a selectable boost, because Fender style circuits actually reduce your signal...
I've been getting more into the workings of amps lately, and of the many things I do not yet understand, one thing is bugging me because it gets talked about all the time: tube rectification in a class-A amp.
Given that in Class-A operation the output tube(s) is getting full current 100% of the time, it seems logical (at least to me) that there would be no sag effect from a rectifier tube, and that solid-state rectification would be far more practical.
I gotto modify a Matchless SuperChief amplifier and to make it a bit easier/faster I'm looking for such schematic, the schematic from the reverb-version is also welcome.
I want to add some built-in attenuation to my version 1 Valve Jr. I've done several other mods, and I think adding this one will top things off nicely.
So I ordered an 8-ohm 15-watt mono L-Pad from Parts Express:
I get how to wire it up for operation with an 8-ohm OT and speaker. However, my VJ is setup for 4-ohm ouptut, and I don't want to change it (at least not at the moment :)). So I got the bright idea that I could put an high-wattage 8-ohm resistor in parallel with the L-Pad (across...
This is the first I've seen of this, so my apologies if it's old hat for everybody else:
The Vintage 1/2 watt guitar amplifier offers chimey clean tones, dirty tweed, VOX at the top, all sorts of killer small vintage amp tones at about half the volume usually associated with the RIGHT sound and feel of a good small vintage amp.. Runs off TWO 9 volt batteries.. Very low current draw.. Plugs straight into ANY guitar Cab.
$170. Hmmm. I wonder if this is a Noisy Cricket at 18v or similar...
I have a strange thing going on in my fender HRD. It works ok with the stock speaker. But when i try to add an 8 ohm Marshall 1912 on the second speaker plug (making the unit work in 4 ohms as told on the manual), the sound is erratic, goes on and off, the level drops, and then no sound anymore...
I tried the 1912 plugged as the main speaker, works fine. but if I plug the stock speaker in the extension plug, same thing goes again...
I want to replace the marshall style cliff mono jack with a standard switchcraft mono jack. How can I do this? I see that there are 4 poles on the Cliff jack and don't quite understand how I would alleviate 2 of the poles. Anyone know how to do this?
This is the tone stack of my Laney HCM15 solid state practice amp. :oops:
I've always found it quirky in operation; the mids don't quite scoop/boost much (if at all) and the treble side is way too shrill.
The bass control is lacking, but then again, you won't hear much bass out of an 8 speaker I guess... :?
Anyways, I've plugged the values into the Duncan Tone Stack Calculator, and noticed that the sweep describes more or less what I'm hearing from the amp.
Lots of bass sweep from 0 to 5,...
Hi, Does anyone possibly have or could do for me a veroboard layout for a small Tube amp (1/2 to 5 watts sorta region) as i'm not to great at layouting myself yet and want to learn about the workings of a tube amp from the build, it is for use in the U.K so i assume this will effect some parts.
I am building a high gain, submini amp and have been wondering if I will be benefitted by using shields over the preamp tubes. I anticipate having the tubes stick out the top of the chassis for heat dissipation, but have heard that shields can protect against hum, but also can affect tone. Thoughts?
I have and old traynor ysr-1 head, that has an 8 ohm output. I recently bought a small used 2 10 cabinet with two 8 ohm eminence ragin cajun speakers in it . The cabinet sounded fine at lower volumes but terrible turned up. I shut everything down and checked the speaker wiring. It was wired in paralel for 4 ohms. I rewired the speakers in series for 16 ohms and tried it again. It sounded great , even at high volume it sounds amazing. My question is , will I cause any damage to the transformers...
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