Being one to experiment, I'm building a Frankenaxe from a Kramer Pacer body and a Jackson neck. The Pacer is routed for two humbuckers and has control cavity spots for three pots and a pickup selector. I'm using push-pull 500K pots for the two volumes and one tone control, and have popped a couple of DPDT mini toggles in to boot.
I'm trying to get as many combinations out of this setup as possible. Where I keep running into a problem is trying to find a way to switch both humbuckers in a series...
i have seen something called LLItch back guard system, and seems to work fine, its there any other way to make a single coils guitar pasive noiseless??
Buddy wants his pups changed from EMG to passive. Got all the guts out of his guitar and noticed there's no GD wire to the bridge. Are we gonna have to send it to a tech to route one out?
You now there is actually a pretty good solution to this.
You can keep your favorite real single coil passive system and get rid of the hum with almost zero trade off of the original sound of the pickup .
The solution is patented and not sold separate but there is no (legal) problem with playing around with the same basic concept and build your own personal system for your own guitar.
The hum cancelling system is active and takes hum from a smaller coil and injects this hum at the same level...
I'm currently building up a project guitar from an 80's American Strat body I found for cheap (someone took a chisel to the entire backside to remove the clearcoat... and did not do a good job). I'm now at the point where I'm looking at Warmoth necks online and feel like I could go in two directions.
Either:
1) Get a cheap maple on maple neck with a Nitro clearcoat.
2) Get an exotic-wood unfinished neck, and leave it unfinished or coat with something thin like Tru-Oil.
So I've got a '96 MIM Fender Stratocaster. The pots are oxidized as all hell so it's gotta be opened up. Again.
I just finished opening it up and opening the pots and cleaning them and re-assembling and it's still scratchy and there are dead spots. No good. But while I was in there I did replace my stock 0.033 uF tone cap with a 0.047 uF, yes, orange drop cap. I had it laying around from a grab bag of loose parts, I didn't spend $15 ordering it from some slime bag online.
Hullo.
The short version is -
Does anyone know how I can replace an Alembic style active Q filter board which some previous owner took from the 1980 Aria Pro II 850 Rev Sound I now own?
The longer version is -
I have a sad tale of axe murder to tell, and I hope that one of those technical minds out there can help me towards a happy ending. Please bare with me. I write too much.
This is my problem. A couple of years ago, I decided it was about time I bought myself an electric guitar. After...
hi, i just want to know if worth the value to put a good set of picks, in a plarme deluxe guitar,it was my first guitar and i have an special feeling about it, but still sound like crap, so i though that with a good set of pick(not active ones) and may later with a good floyd rose bridge the guitar can sound at least decent, i want to fix it for sentimental reason, was my first guitar after all, i still remenber the day i bought it, and maybe sometimes i play with that for practice or...
My friend has a Les Paul with the standard humbucker configuration (2 pickups, 4 vol/tone knobs, 3 way selector, output jack). But, it has a middle pickup added, and the middle pickup is on a DPDT switch for on/off. So the 3 way selector switch stays the standard configuration, and the middle pickup can be thrown in/out of the mix at any given time.
The guitar needs to be rewired. Does anyone know where I can find a wiring diagram for this?
So I've got this Epi LP from Craigslist that's got the wiring buggered up - all 4 knobs control the volume? There's probably 20 ways to wire an LP. Could anyone recommend a normal/conventional way to wire it? Also, it does NOT have split pickups.
Also the PU selector switch sometimes goesn't work in the bridge position (just get nothing). Can anyone recommend a decent replacement? (from a US supplier)
I don't know a thing about guitar wiring despite all my pedal work. So any advice is...
I have a Tele with a problem that has plagued me for years, and never found a resolution. I thought I'd ask for help here where people are knowledgable about electronics.
The bridge pickup, without fail, goes completely silent. To get sound back, it requires that I poke at the circuit with a multimeter. As soon as I observe the connections with the multimeter (a) it always measures correctly (b) it begins working, usually for about a half hour, before it goes out again.
I've been doing some netsurfing for some replacement guitar parts and found some kits for electric guitars, I've never even thought of building a guitar from a kit of parts until now and I'm interested in giving it a go, just wondering if there are any FSB members that have built guitars from a kit of parts, and what have their experiences been like, how hard/easy are the kits to assemble?, is there anything I need to know how to do beforehand?, also what's the best way to finish a guitar...
Hello all. I got annoyed with my Carvin Icon's preamp switch being the instrument cable/stereo jack. I don't feel like removing the instrument cable every time I'm done playing to avoid battery drain. Therefore, I'm going to add a rotary switch to control the preamp on/off function while still leaving the bass' factory look in tact.
At the same time, I will take the opportunity to completely rewire and re-shield with copper conductive coating, silver epoxy and single conductor shielded 18 awg...
Alright, here is my contribution to the site. I had a friends carvin Icon bass to replace the opamps due to no polarity protection and figured I would take a few pictures in case anyone is interested. is the preamp that comes standard on the Icon and Lb series bases. I have aded a protection diode and socket-ed the opamps.
Came across a '78 Ibanez MC 400 with the original onboard EQ removed and replaced by a Starr switch onboard unit , and cannot find ANY info on it, If anyone has anything such as wiring diagrams, etc. I would be most grateful.
I just recently bought myself a Fender LSR Roller Nut from eBay which I'm going to use to replace the existing nut on my Mexican Standard Strat, and I was just wondering if anyone has had any experiences with one of these good or bad, there's a 3-part series of videos on youtube dealing with installing an LSR Roller-Nut on a Strat, it looks easy enough and I feel confident enough to do the installation myself, since I have some formal training as a Fitter and Machinist, and I...
My mate showed me a lap steel guitar that he'd made. It looked pretty simple, so I decided to have a go.
I found an offcut slab of oak on eBay, 45mm thick, 95mm wide, and 920mm long - almost perfect for what I needed, except it was a tad too long - the final guitar is about 800mm long.
With a load of old guitar bits (Tele bridge plate/pickup, and Strat tuners, volume pot, neck plate and slanted jack socket) and a few other odds and ends, I had enough for the project.
Hello everyone, this week, on Wednesday, I picked up my new Super Vee Trem System I had ordered online to replace my Mexican Fender Standard Stratocaster's stock Vintage Trem System, so I thought I'd take some pics and post a dropbox link to them here for anyone interested, I will also be adding a couple of before and after installation audio clips so you can hear the difference it makes to the guitar's tone and tuning stability:
I've token some photos of Noll Mixpot 1, and tryed to redraw the shematic. As all can be seen without opening anything, it's not a problem to show this on the forum, is it ? I'll delete files if it is.
It's a active blend pot with two separate input stage with +18db trim gains and a output buffer.
There's not many active blend without eq. The only other one i know is emg abc, but seems only to be two buffers.
I'm really newby in electronic. There's maybe some mistake. It's seems me a...
I'm no EE - but this argument seems like hokum to me... so much so it actually irks me and I'm fed up encountering it. You find some wiring expert pop up on most guitar forums spouting it if you google about for info on guitar shielding. But are these people right and am I wrong - is it possibly true? :hmmm:
The basic idea behind shielding your guitar with either conductive paint or metal foil (usually copper) is to create something approaching a Faraday cage around the internal electronics...
I posted a chromacaster workalike using a six position rotary switch on here a couple years ago which I installed in a couple of my guitars. I never really got used to it. I could never remember the different settings and only really used a few of them anyway. I decided to simplify things by just having a push/pull with the pickup selector to get the series and parallel sounds I wanted. I couldn't find a schematic for what I wanted out there, so I put this together. It uses a Super Switch and...
I've been working on a project guitar with my father this weekend involving an H S H with Clapton Midboost and TBX tone. We've done two clapton mid boosts before in two different strats and have enjoyed them a lot. I know the tonality of the clapton mid boost is applied best for single coils, but having a +25 gain on humbuckers could be kind of fun too despite the overkill so we decided to go ahead with it. There wasn't a whole lot of diagrams online referencing how to get this type of thing...
Hehe... didja think it was a flying V? Well this ones got a lot of things wrong but I wanted to post a before picture.
May change the scale, electrics are trashed, missing a few bits, lacquer is cracking... Time for disassembly and a mild stripping. Still dreaming of mods for my J.Mascis but it plays fine and I've wanted one of these bodies for a while...
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