Caline CP-18 Orange Burst Overdrive  [schematic]

All about modern commercial stompbox circuits from Electro Harmonix over MXR, Boss and Ibanez into the nineties.
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aw73
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Post by aw73 »

it seems like it wouldnt work at all or be intermittent if it was the switch, but i guess it could be.

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Andy2No
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Post by Andy2No »

I guess they might have oxidised a contact or two, in the switch, by soldering it too slowly and getting it too hot.

The LED not going out is odd though. Does it have its own pole on the switch, with just a resistor in series with it, or is it more subtle than that, on that version? Maybe there's solder bridging two tracks.

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aw73
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Post by aw73 »

i cant tell if it has its own poll, it goes under the switch but it does have a current resistor close to the led.

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aw73
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Post by aw73 »

pole i mean

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aw73
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Post by aw73 »

when the pedal is on the led is bright but when its off it is real dim.

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aw73
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Post by aw73 »

i have clicked the switch dozens of times and nothing has changed.

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aw73
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Post by aw73 »

i found the problem under the input jack. it had some liquid/chemical under it that was eating the coating and shorting the copper trace to the led and ground. i cleaned it with alcohol, soldered the trace and reinstalled the input jack. very strange, i would of never seen it if i hadnt started pulling the jacks and switch off the board.

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Andy2No
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Post by Andy2No »

I'm glad to hear you've found the problem.

Maybe it was a spillage of a particularly vicious flux. The one of mine that I had to repair on arrival had evidently been soldered by hand - which is nice, in a way, but it was apparently done by someone with even worse soldering skills than myself... which is difficult for me to picture. I have very shaky hands. I'm not sure what that guy's excuse was.

I bought a second Puffer Fuzz too, intending to mod it. It was not very fuzzy, out of the box. I took it apart and found a lead that hadn't been clipped short after soldering and was pressing against something else.

Still, they're cheap, mostly quite interesting designs (often blatantly cloned) and they're constructed in a way that lets the acutely ham fisted, like me, have a good chance of modifying them. I think the Red Devil is an exception, and probably all of the DSP based ones, so I haven't bought any of those.

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aw73
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Post by aw73 »

if it was flux i definitely would not use that kind. i use liquid rosin flux and it is non corrosive and it wont conduct. i ordered some kester 186 no clean flux to try, ive never used it before. i also have shaky hands and smd soldering is very hard for me.

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wildschwein
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Post by wildschwein »

Great sounding pedal -- in fact it's the best OD I've used and I have used a lot in the last 29 years of playing. But they're not made well and if you look at them wrong they seem to stop working. I'm onto number 2 (number 1 is dead) -- it however has some occasional intermittent issues (I think related to soldering on the pot) but opening it up will make things worse so I am leaving it alone. Good thing they're cheap. Might fork out fork the real BB eventually.

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Andy2No
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Post by Andy2No »

They probably both just need some resoldering / touch up, like the first one I bought, wildschwein.

All I did was pick off some loose blobs, then touch up a few joints by melting them with the soldering iron for a few seconds.

If you still have the first one, you may as well try it - you can't make it any worse; it's already broken.

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Andy2No
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Post by Andy2No »

... I may also have added a touch more solder to a couple of points, but I didn't de-solder anything - in other words nothing I did to fix it required any skill at all - just ownership of a soldering iron.

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CheapPedalCollector
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Post by CheapPedalCollector »

I bought a couple defective ones of these to mod, the schematic matches the BB-AT one that AION effects traced except that the volume control is only a single 100k pot on the output of the 2nd stage (the normal TS tone control stage) and none after the baxandall tone stack.

The only differences are a 51pf cap rather than a 47pf cap in the clipping feedback loop and the RC4558 is replaced with a TL072CP. The diodes are 1n4148 and not 1n914 but they are equivalent to each other.

I have modded one of them to BBMB specs, while keeping the dual TL072CP setup.

The mods I performed are 4 diodes instead of 2, I replaced one of the caps which was 47uf @ 16v (C15 on the board) with a 47uf @ 25V so I could run the pedal on anywhere from 9 to 22 volts comfortably, and I removed the 1k/18k (R5 and R8 on the board) resistor pair and replaced them with a 20k W taper pot. I prefer the larger output volume available and higher headroom this mod gives, as well as the "mid" control which is really the original TS tone control. I had to resolder the input jack and replaced the 3PDT with a Tayda one to repair the original problems with it. The LED resistor didn't need any change for this to keep it from being too bright, but I haven't tested it at 22v yet as it sounds great at 18v. Total investment was $20 and an hour of time for a really good sounding pedal.
OrangeBoostMod1.jpg
OrangeBoostMod2.jpg
OrangeBoostMod3.jpg

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