Your guess is right, there is a 1k resistor:Dirk_Hendrik wrote: And in your unit RLED is replaced by a jumper wire as well? Guess not.
Ibanez - JD-9 Jet Driver [schematic]
- tube-exorcist
- Resistor Ronker
- Attachments
-
- Ibanez_JD9_R-LED.jpg (32.71 KiB) Viewed 4645 times
"I've noticed there's an inverse relationship between cost of gear and talent. If you need the most expensive gear to get decent tones, then you suck as a player."
- tube-exorcist
- Resistor Ronker
You are welcome.Dirk_Hendrik wrote: Thanks for the values. I had the connections already.
Yep..... only interesting is the Overdrive section - via the inverting input now.... a little bit non-standards-TSDirk_Hendrik wrote: Standard hi, gyrator mid tone control.
"I've noticed there's an inverse relationship between cost of gear and talent. If you need the most expensive gear to get decent tones, then you suck as a player."
- Dirk_Hendrik
- Old Solderhand
Information
Draft, incomplete. Correct component numbering, connector numbering, pot taper for the Mid and Tine control, cap values would be appreciated.http://www.dirk-hendrik.com/temp/Ibanez_JD9.pdf
- tube-exorcist
- Resistor Ronker
Here some of the missing things:
(jumpered) L1 at the input is marked on the pcb: L2
C23: 47p
C1: 22n
Q1: 2SC1815-GR
C2: 47n
R3 is not 47k, it is: 4k7
D1 is marked on the pcb: D7
D2 is marked on the pcb: D8
C4 is marked on the pcb: C3 and is 51p
R5 is not 10k, it is: 1k
C3 is marked on the pcb: C4 and it is µ22/50V
C5: µ22/50V
C6: 220p
C11: 2n2 (f res = 650 Hz)
CX is marked C9 and is: 10n
R6 is marked R13 on the pcb
CX2 is marked C14 and is 100n
Q2: 2SC1815-GR
CX3 is marked C7 and is 47p
C15: 1µ/50V
(jumpered) L2 is marked L1 on the pcb
C16: 100µ/16V
CXX is marked C17 and is: 47µ/16V
C8, C13, C18; C19 each is: 100n
anything else needed?
(jumpered) L1 at the input is marked on the pcb: L2
C23: 47p
C1: 22n
Q1: 2SC1815-GR
C2: 47n
R3 is not 47k, it is: 4k7
D1 is marked on the pcb: D7
D2 is marked on the pcb: D8
C4 is marked on the pcb: C3 and is 51p
R5 is not 10k, it is: 1k
C3 is marked on the pcb: C4 and it is µ22/50V
C5: µ22/50V
C6: 220p
C11: 2n2 (f res = 650 Hz)
CX is marked C9 and is: 10n
R6 is marked R13 on the pcb
CX2 is marked C14 and is 100n
Q2: 2SC1815-GR
CX3 is marked C7 and is 47p
C15: 1µ/50V
(jumpered) L2 is marked L1 on the pcb
C16: 100µ/16V
CXX is marked C17 and is: 47µ/16V
C8, C13, C18; C19 each is: 100n
anything else needed?
"I've noticed there's an inverse relationship between cost of gear and talent. If you need the most expensive gear to get decent tones, then you suck as a player."
- Dirk_Hendrik
- Old Solderhand
Information
Cool Thanks!tube-exorcist wrote: Change list
Update:
http://www.dirk-hendrik.com/temp/Ibanez_JD9.pdf
Connector numbering, grounding scheme and the taper for the Mid and Tone pottube-exorcist wrote: anything else needed?
- tube-exorcist
- Resistor Ronker
potentiometers are marked as follows:
VR1: B1M (Drive)
VR2: B10k (Mid)
VR3: B10k (Tone)
VR4: B100k (Volume)
P1/J1 (LED):
1: anode
2: kathode
P2/J2 ---------
P3/J3 ---------
P4/J4 (Footswitch):
wiring see pictures above, blue is pin 1.
P5/J5 (Input jack):
1: Tip (signal)
2: Ring (battery)
3: Sleeve (ground)
P6/J6 (Output jack):
1: Tip (signal)
2: Sleeve (ground)
P7/J7 (vol-tone-pcb) :
1: Tone, cw
2: Tone, ccw
3: Tone, slider
4: Volume, cw
5: Volume, slider
6: Volume, ccw (ground)
P8/J8 (drive-mid-pcb):
1: Drive, ccw
2: Drive cw + slider
3: Mid, cw
4: Mid, slider
5, Mid, ccw
BTW, the serial number of my unit is 1041472.
VR1: B1M (Drive)
VR2: B10k (Mid)
VR3: B10k (Tone)
VR4: B100k (Volume)
P1/J1 (LED):
1: anode
2: kathode
P2/J2 ---------
P3/J3 ---------
P4/J4 (Footswitch):
wiring see pictures above, blue is pin 1.
P5/J5 (Input jack):
1: Tip (signal)
2: Ring (battery)
3: Sleeve (ground)
P6/J6 (Output jack):
1: Tip (signal)
2: Sleeve (ground)
P7/J7 (vol-tone-pcb) :
1: Tone, cw
2: Tone, ccw
3: Tone, slider
4: Volume, cw
5: Volume, slider
6: Volume, ccw (ground)
P8/J8 (drive-mid-pcb):
1: Drive, ccw
2: Drive cw + slider
3: Mid, cw
4: Mid, slider
5, Mid, ccw
BTW, the serial number of my unit is 1041472.
"I've noticed there's an inverse relationship between cost of gear and talent. If you need the most expensive gear to get decent tones, then you suck as a player."
- Dirk_Hendrik
- Old Solderhand
Information
Cool! That seems to cover all. Regret to see they took the lin shortcut for the tone controls.
Updated;
http://www.dirk-hendrik.com/temp/Ibanez_JD9.pdf
Updated;
http://www.dirk-hendrik.com/temp/Ibanez_JD9.pdf
I just got a used JD-9. When I plugged it in it was on and wouldn't turn off. I flushed out the switch with contact cleaner and now it will turn on only when the switch is pressed down. Bad switch? Any other ideas on a fix? I understand it's a true bypass design unlike other 9 series pedals.
I managed to get a switch from Ibanez. It took several weeks to get and was $16.00 and change, but should do the job. A friend with better soldering skills then I have is going to install it as it needs some fine circuit board work. Hopefully that's the only problem. I'll report the results.
- Dirk_Hendrik
- Old Solderhand
Information
So, in essence, you did a fine job! Excellent!
- roseblood11
- Tube Twister
So, changing R11 from 6k8 to 3k3 would bring the center frequency up to 995 Hz, and the Q will increase from 0.72 (around 2 octaves) to 1.03 8around 1 1/3 octaves).
Should be worth trying...
Should be worth trying...
Hi
Thanks for this useful thread. I got a JD9, that I find pretty interresting to use on guitar (though the mid indeed is a bit low for my taste, so I keep the mod for that in mind).
I've tried this JD-9 on bass and It's very close to the sound I search : little distortion but with some nice hi-mid attack, and not too much of those "transistor" highs that can be heard on most overdrive meant for bass. So I wondered if I should try to tweak it a bit (less drive so I can use the pot above 9 o'clock, modify the mid frequently pot that I barely use by example). Or, if some of you knew a pedal with a close design that could give me that type of sound ?
Thanks in advance for your advice.
Thanks for this useful thread. I got a JD9, that I find pretty interresting to use on guitar (though the mid indeed is a bit low for my taste, so I keep the mod for that in mind).
I've tried this JD-9 on bass and It's very close to the sound I search : little distortion but with some nice hi-mid attack, and not too much of those "transistor" highs that can be heard on most overdrive meant for bass. So I wondered if I should try to tweak it a bit (less drive so I can use the pot above 9 o'clock, modify the mid frequently pot that I barely use by example). Or, if some of you knew a pedal with a close design that could give me that type of sound ?
Thanks in advance for your advice.