freestompboxes.org

Just checked the link at OSH PARK and it is working fine.
board is: Weasel V84 1590BB mini.zip
By the way, if you don't want OSH PARK to produce the board and you fancy doing it yourself, you can also download the gerber files and drill details in a zip file from the project page
cheers
bajaman

So I used multisim 11 to differentiate a marshal tone stack with a fender tonestack to create the marshall response through my new fender clean channel.

hmmm - an interesting idea worthy of consideration for folks wanting to make their fender twin sound more like a plexi
cheers
bajaman

permalink: https://oshpark.com/shared_projects/NdRPXXqJ
cheers
bajaman

Since the minimum order are 3 PCBs - anyone interessted in teaming up to buy a PCB?
Me (located in Europe/Germany) and another forum user from the US are looking for others to split the order and reduce the shipping costs.
If there is someone interessted just write me a private message (so there is no additional spam here) and tell me where you are located.

And again thanks a lot for the time and design Bajaman - much appreciated.

I'm from the US and would like to put together an OSH park order with forum members as well. PM me if you are in the US and interested so we can get an order going.

I will order 5 boards from pcbway soon. 5 is the minium. I´m in Finland so I could sell you one.

Hello, long time no building. I want this evilpedal so hard with my own layout
Some question :
- what alternative to LM2940ct-12? or can we not use this regulator?
- i see footswitch just use 2 pole. So, is okay with DPDT only then?
- where to get the cheapest 1590BS? like 1590B but more height.
Thanks
Febri

287m wrote: - what alternative to LM2940ct-12? or can we not use this regulator?
Febri

Its just a 12 Volt regulator so check the data sheet for LM2940ct-12 and get any similar spec one.

LM7812 will do fine

Jan1966 wrote:

287m wrote: - what alternative to LM2940ct-12? or can we not use this regulator?
Febri

Its just a 12 Volt regulator so check the data sheet for LM2940ct-12 and get any similar spec one.

bajaman wrote:LM7812 will do fine

thanks Jan and Baja
time to place order at tayda

287m wrote: where to get the cheapest 1590BS? like 1590B but more height.
Thanks
Febri

Also Rapid online and Farnell sell this enclosure but not sure if this is the price you wish to pay. The ones on ebay seem more expensive.

Cheers
Jan

Hi guys, do you have a list of components by any chance, i really want to have a go and making one of these bad boys.

There is a schematic a few pages back. It should be enough so you can make a BOM on your own or you could use the gerber files from bajamans pcb and read the components printed in the silkscreen

LeeTab wrote:Hi guys, do you have a list of components by any chance, i really want to have a go and making one of these bad boys.

Here you go

Alternatively:

I got a batch of Bajamans PCBs produced and have some leftovers that i'd like to trade or sell.
(Big thanks to Bajaman for the great design and for allowing me to do that.)

Drop me a PN if interested.

I see there is a Version 2 of this pedal available now
http://deluxeguitars.com.au/effects/dis ... al-v2.html

There are 2 mistakes in by BOM above : R26 is 1k instead of 110 ohms, and R28 is 100 ohms instead of 1k
There are also a few in 440hz's one, I let you check

I finished building Bajaman's board and wow, what a great distortion, very different from the BE-OD as expected, sounds killer, well worth having both.
I must say that Bajaman's pcb is really great, very easy to solder
I have some squealing with the gain full open, from 8 to 10. I'll shield both in and out when boxing it
I didn't solder the regulator as I will use it on a good quality 9v power supply so jumped pins 1&3. With wall 9V V+ is 8,82 and V- 8,22

Nuce work. I also started populating the board today but sadly I don't have all the parts in stock

alltrax wrote:There are 2 mistakes in by BOM above : R26 is 1k instead of 110 ohms, and R28 is 100 ohms instead of 1k
There are also a few in 440hz's one, I let you check

If R26 was supposed to be 1k (rather than 110R), then the error was on the schematic, not our BOMs.

I knew 110R sounded odd. Now that I've taken a closer look at the gut shot, it looks like the color code is "brown black black brown," or 100 × 10^1 = 1k.

When I have a bit more time, I'll re-read this topic and make sure I didn't miss any other corrections. I'll try to post a corrected schematic, as well.