Ibanez - WH10-V2 Weeping Demon Wah [schematic]

[metakel]

No. It's more a "jazzy" sound.

I meant the "POP" sound (as of "popcorn") cause by sudden change in induction of the circuit during switching.
Does it happens during switching after the True-bypass mod?

[Dirk_Hendrik]

I know

Popping switches, up to a certain extend, all can be analysed back to a cause. Then eliminate the cause. Common causes are DC charging, voltage drops (usually caused by the LED turning on and increasing the current draw) and inductive (relay bypass, again that current draw).

Up to a certain exted?
Yes, I am in the opinion all mechanical bypasses will pop. In many cases you'll need a bloody load of volume to hear it though. Learned from experience with a player who returned his pedal 3 or 4 times because it popped. After the last "no fault found" I paid him a visit... and was sorry for not bringiong hearing protection.

[Saschloch]

Hi guys,

Could Someone post a picture of the true bypass mod ? Id love to see how it looks like, i dont know where to solder input and output cables because the jack is solder on the Board just a picture of the Wiring please
Thank you

Nice day !

[bogiiman]

Sorry for bumping an old thread but I was hoping we could have some more discussion on the WH10V2.

I wish to mod mine to get as close as possible to the original version.

On the first page this is noted:

on a first glance... all one has to do is lift the two 2n2 caps at the input and output buffers?

jepz. 3 that is. One on the dry out as well.
And, if you wanna do it really corksniffin correct, replace the 220 ohms with one 470 ohm.

And also later on the second page:

So far nobody has mentioned the differences in C8 and C9 - can anyone explain this? (in layman's terms - i'm not a techie).

I also noted myself that there is a resistor on the input of the V2 called R31 with a value of 220 not available on the reissue.
Aswell as a 220 R30 on the output also not available on the original. Furthermore C15 and C16 are also different!


So please everybody help me make as close as "cork sniffing" correct mod of the V2 to become like the original.
Please be aware that I am a beginner and dont know what I am talking about.
But to conclude, this is what I found by looking at the schematics and reading this thread:

1. Remove C21, C19 and C20 2n2 caps
2. Replace the 220 ohms with one 470 ohm (is this R1??, what about R22??)
3.
Original
C8 (10/35)
C9 (1/63)
C15 (1/63)
C16 (10/35)

V2
C8 (10/16)
C9 (1/50)
C15 (10/16)
C16 (10/16)

Hopefully someone with greater knowledge can take one more look at the scematics since it seems previously some points were missed out?

[Dirk_Hendrik]

If you want to go and sniff cork as far as to replace with the correct voltage ratings for the elco's... go ahead. I have strong doubts whether you'll hear that. Problem with corksniffing like that is that, to make it completely correct, you'd have to change to the correct brand as well. And chances are pretty good various brands were used in the same component locations dependent on what was available. Leaving the question what is "correct".

As for C15; It may very well be that the V1 did have a 10uF in that position and I made an error when I made the schematic drawing. in that position 10uF is rather common for Ibanez pedals.

And btw, the V2 is not a Weeping Deamon

[bogiiman]

Haha, yeah I guess somebody missnamed the thread title?

Thank you for the reply.
As I said I am a beginner, sorry so I didnt know how important those "voltage ratings for the elco" were.
I will skip on that part then, and only do the 3 caps plus the mentioned replacement of the 220 ohms with one 470 ohm.

(I was worried changing these parts would make it necessary to also do the voltage rating for the elcos, but I guess not?)

Could you please confirm which resistor this is tho? (R1??, what about R22??)

Just one final question. When I remove these parts, I have to replace them with wires right? So the signal wont stop were the parts once were!

Thanks once again!

[bogiiman]

Side story:

My ibanez wh10V2 pot pretty much died. (scracthty hell that no electronic cleaner could fix)

So i bought a 50/50k and a 500k/500K dual linear (B) pot and made them into one 50k/500k to fit my wh10.

It was my first time putting together a pot like that! Fun stuff! I learnt something

ANYWAY, I noticed after putting the thing together again that it just doesnt have that WHACK of the original pot.
So I start thinking... maybe I need some original tapet pot?

But searchhing the web, pretty much all pots sold as replacements for the wh10 have the linear taper??

What gives?
Yes I have played around with the pot to try find a better "sweet spot", but it seems the range of the wah pedal just cant utilize the whole taper of the pot.
This makes me end up with either a bright wah, or a dark wah... and just not enough sweep.

What are everybody using for their own wh10 wah builds!

This is frustrating! But I hope to learn something at least

[bogiiman]

No wh10 clone builders out there?

I was thinking of maybe trying 50k/500k　AUDIO taper pots for a faster sweep?

Or how about even doubling the value of the pots to 100k/1000k for faster/complete sweep.

The 50k/500k linear ones just dont have the full sweep when the pedals mechaizm is used.

Would love to hear some thoughts on this from someone more experienced than myself, before I waste more money on rare pots.

[bogiiman]

Somewhere in this world there is a mountain of dead WH10V2 pedals growing bigger and bigger...

[NiLaceBand]

Well, not a broken WH10 (yet) but I'm in need of a little advice.

I followed the schematic for the true bypass mod. Comparing Dirk's schematics of the original WH10 and the reissue I decided to remove the two 2n2 resistors and replace it with a single 470R resistor in R1 and R22 along with the cap removal.
The reason for this is not so much as to get as close as possible as the original (I'm pretty sure I can't hear it but to use the R31 and R30 holes for the true bypass switching.

Soldered the existing switch cables to pins 4 and 5 of the 3PDT and used the in output/input of the jacks available in the holes of r31 and R30 in pins 2 and 8 of the 3PDT (and the other available spots for 1 and 7).

Works very well as far as switching goes but what is confusing me is that before the mod the depth mod was almost unusable, having it fully CCW was such a big boost I was considering adding a volume pot in the dry out jack space, but after this modifications, the same position of the depth know is boosting the signal just right above "unity gain" (whatever that meas on a wah). Turning the pot fully CW has the opposite effect, attenuates the signal a little bit.

Not really worried as I always has used the pedal with the pot at 10 and now it sounds clearly better, but I'm a little bit annoyed by it. The dry signal that is mixed with the depth know seems to be quieter now and I don't understand if this should be expected after the mod (and then I don't understand why). Or should I undo the mod step by step?

Can anyone share some wisdom with this, please?

[NiLaceBand]

Not really worried as I always has used the pedal with the pot at 10 and now it sounds clearly better, but I'm a little bit annoyed by it. The dry signal that is mixed with the depth know seems to be quieter now and I don't understand if this should be expected after the mod (and then I don't understand why). Or should I undo the mod step by step?

Answering myself... I undid all the modifications and found the answer along the way.

The stock pedal without a buffer in front of it produces a significative volume loss. The boost that goes with the level knob works wonders in that situation. As soon as the output level of the True Bypass can be compared with the volume level with the effect engaged, the pot beyond 12 makes a noticeable but not massive signal boost (as I would expect).

Just quoting myself in case somebody finds himself in the same situation after converting the pedal to TBP and starts wondering "Why is not boosting so much as before the mod?"