Marshall Footswitch help
I'm trying to make a footswitch for my Marshall TSL60 Head. I can buy one new for $130 but all the reviews say they are crap and dont last.
Here is the amp schematic. Page 2 A5 is the footswitch jack. From what I can see pin 6 is ground and if i connect the other pins to ground I can change channels. Is that correct? Would I need momentary switches? Thanks for any help you can give.
I should also add that it is a 5 button footswitch. Channel1-3, reverb and FX.
Jason
Here is the amp schematic. Page 2 A5 is the footswitch jack. From what I can see pin 6 is ground and if i connect the other pins to ground I can change channels. Is that correct? Would I need momentary switches? Thanks for any help you can give.
I should also add that it is a 5 button footswitch. Channel1-3, reverb and FX.
Jason
- bajaman
- Old Solderhand
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Hi Jay - the switches are crap, but there are two types used if I remember correctly - Latched and Unlatched or momentary switches.
They are marked U or L on the side of the switch body - your best idea is to buy the footswitch including the connector and replace the switches with some better quality ones
cheers
bajaman
They are marked U or L on the side of the switch body - your best idea is to buy the footswitch including the connector and replace the switches with some better quality ones
cheers
bajaman
I was afraid that would be the answer. Too pricy by the time I buy one and replace the switches. I even read that the cable is crappy too.
If I cant DIY I think I will stick to the same method Ive been using, clean channel and pedals.
If I cant DIY I think I will stick to the same method Ive been using, clean channel and pedals.
- theehman
- Diode Debunker
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You can check if they're latched or unlatched by shorting each pin to ground then removing the short to see if it stays.Jay wrote:I was afraid that would be the answer. Too pricy by the time I buy one and replace the switches. I even read that the cable is crappy too.
If I cant DIY I think I will stick to the same method Ive been using, clean channel and pedals.
Ron Neely II
Electro-Harmonix info: http://electroharmonix.vintageusaguitars.com
Home of RonSound effects: http://www.ronsound.com
fx schematics and repairs
Electro-Harmonix info: http://electroharmonix.vintageusaguitars.com
Home of RonSound effects: http://www.ronsound.com
fx schematics and repairs
I see what you are saying, thats a great idea. Thanks.theehman wrote:You can check if they're latched or unlatched by shorting each pin to ground then removing the short to see if it stays.Jay wrote:I was afraid that would be the answer. Too pricy by the time I buy one and replace the switches. I even read that the cable is crappy too.
If I cant DIY I think I will stick to the same method Ive been using, clean channel and pedals.
ok, did some testing and have some results but am still confused.
New schematic link With no connections made channel 3 is on. short pin 1 and channel 1 is on till you break the connection.
While that is connected no other connections will have any effect. Short pin 2 and channel 2 is on untill you break the connection,
same as before no other connections change anything. Short pin 3 and channel 1 is on but with a little spark upon connection.
Pin 4 and 5 have no effect so I will assume they are for FX loop and reverb.
I took voltage reading incase they would be helpful. Pin 1 and 2 are 0 VDC. Pin 3 is 22 VDC and pin 4 and 5 are 19 VDC.
Here is a quote from a review on the footswitch over at MF maybe it will help shed some light.
"My advice is : When you buy this footswitch immediately 1) Replace 3x SPST momentary and
2 DPDT latch switches with good quality (eg Carling). 2) Install 5 pin din socket in footswitch 3) Make up 2 new 5 pin Din cables
(careful to get plug type with centre pin and don't confuse this with Midi
- it is not midi), i.e. one as backup. The circuit board in the unit is basically an LED driver and switch doubouncer with some other logic control."
Hope this isn't too confusing.
So am I up Sh*t creek?
Thanks
New schematic link With no connections made channel 3 is on. short pin 1 and channel 1 is on till you break the connection.
While that is connected no other connections will have any effect. Short pin 2 and channel 2 is on untill you break the connection,
same as before no other connections change anything. Short pin 3 and channel 1 is on but with a little spark upon connection.
Pin 4 and 5 have no effect so I will assume they are for FX loop and reverb.
I took voltage reading incase they would be helpful. Pin 1 and 2 are 0 VDC. Pin 3 is 22 VDC and pin 4 and 5 are 19 VDC.
Here is a quote from a review on the footswitch over at MF maybe it will help shed some light.
"My advice is : When you buy this footswitch immediately 1) Replace 3x SPST momentary and
2 DPDT latch switches with good quality (eg Carling). 2) Install 5 pin din socket in footswitch 3) Make up 2 new 5 pin Din cables
(careful to get plug type with centre pin and don't confuse this with Midi
- it is not midi), i.e. one as backup. The circuit board in the unit is basically an LED driver and switch doubouncer with some other logic control."
Hope this isn't too confusing.
So am I up Sh*t creek?
Thanks
- bajaman
- Old Solderhand
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This is GOOD ADVICE - do this first - the original switches will have U for momentary or unlatched and L for the latched type."My advice is : When you buy this footswitch immediately 1) Replace 3x SPST momentary and
2 DPDT latch switches with good quality (eg Carling).
bajaman