Behringer - VP1 Vintage Phaser - various mods w/ video

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mesaboogie87
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Post by mesaboogie87 »

I ran across this...anyone here done these? Wish I could read Portuguese better...

YouTube link at bottom of page


Um excelente phaser baseado no Small Stone, com dois ci's LM13700 e um CA3080.

Aí vai:

Maior equilíbrio de volume entre os modos da chave Tone e bypass:
R23= 39k
R32= 560k
C9= 22n (cerâmico p/ maior transparência)

Efeito vibrato:
R18= 33k (colocar uma chave p/ liga-lo e desliga-lo)

Maior transparência:
C5= 1uF tântalo
C1= 10uF tântalo
C13= 100n (cerâmico)

Efeito leslie:
Colocar chave para alternar entre esses valores e os valores originais.
C11= 22n
C15= 330n
C10= 470p
C14= 4n7

Ficou assim:

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Binuts
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Post by Binuts »

Bump ! I wanna pimp my VP1, I already true bypassed it but I don't know how to modify this damn circuit, the pieces are too small !
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P0355 Service Manual_2011-02-24_Rev.C.pdf
Behringer VP1 Vintage Phaser schematic
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Bernardduur
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Post by Bernardduur »

Got this one in for some mods and fun!

Thought it was a Phase90 clone, turns out to be a phase 90 clone with some differences!

Enjoy!!!
Behringer PH9.JPG
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kaycee
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Post by kaycee »

Thanks for sharing the schematic. I think I see a 'script' switch and an added 'depth' control too? Something different about the output section but its a while since I messed with the P90 so can't put my finger on it.

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Post by Bernardduur »

Script switch is a yes!! Called Swirl on the box.

There is no depth control, guess that is the trimpot for the LFO.......

I see I've forgotten to add a ground connection on the PSU, will do that later this evening. The potmeter has no value on it (besides that F number) but I guess it is a 500k C potmeter
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modman
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Post by modman »

This came floating my way... [smilie=a_cookiemonster.gif]
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PH9_P0522_M_EN.pdf
Behringer PH9 user's manual
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P0522 Service Manual_2011-08-16_Rev.0.pdf
Behringer PH9 Service Manual Rev.0
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Post by Renegadrian »

r18 - not too bad, it's worth...

I made the mod for the pulsing led, no need to get that pin to that resistor
http://www.handmades.com.br/forum/index ... pic=899.15
(step 3) first two steps and the led pulses...actually you don't have to break that line, just lift the led positive leg.

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tabbycat
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Post by tabbycat »

i'm mad about my vp1. a great toy full of colours. keep meaning to do the true bypass as that seems the most-useful-least-likely-to-trash-it mod. as i'm fond of mine am wary of getting into trying to pull smd's and burning out the pcb.

however i did see a stereo wet/dry mod that has got me pretty interested. seems minimally invasive surgery for maximum sound gain. no sound clips or post-mod review though. an inspiring idea.

i hope the poster doesn't mind me posting these images. readily google-able and as the poster lists this site as his source for the schematic it would seem they are 'in the modding loop'.

https://www.flickr.com/photos/nicoo_diy ... 1839344654 (thanks nicoo diy)

unfortunately, apart from the gut shot and the schematic there is no other information on the mod. i've checked other vp1 mod posts on fsb and there is no mention of this anywhere.

has anyone here had a crack at it? or is this your work? i'm intrigued...

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Renegadrian
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Post by Renegadrian »

A DEPTH pot would be so useful I guess...

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tabbycat
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Post by tabbycat »

Renegadrian wrote:A DEPTH pot would be so useful I guess...


there's a french modder who has added every conceivable mod (except stereo, which is the one i'm most interested in at the moment) to a small bear clone ehx small stone here:

http://sounddiy.free.fr/smallstone.html

i'm still a bit of a newbie so am not sure if my terminology is correct, but the image illustrates how to take a line off the outside leg of two of the transistors (can trace which ones from schematic at small bear, then find them on behringer schematic) and take them to the outside lugs (lugs 1 and 3, with 1 linked to 2) of a 5k lin pot (lug 3 via a 2k resistor).
voilà le depth pot, as they say in south kensington.

the small bear link (in the 'links' link on the above link) provides a pdf that links the pcb layout to the small bear schematic, which will tell you which transistors you are working with.

then it's a matter of tracing the vp1 to work out how it relates to the small bear small stone layout.

i've only just browsed it but if you know what you are doing the link will probably be enough to inspire you.

good luck if you do it, and if it works report back here with the results. would be good to see as applied directly to the vp1.

tabbycat.

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tabbycat
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Post by tabbycat »

just to join a couple of dots, if you are reading this post and looking for the vp1 schematic, true bypass mod, or some info about adding an lpb-1 volume booster to the vp1, there is another post here at fsb with all that in;

link:
Behringer - Vintage Phaser VP1 - True Bypass Mod
https://www.freestompboxes.org/viewtopic.php?f=11&t=408

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Post by Renegadrian »

Tabbycat, thanks for the links, I already read them as you may have guessed...
I also spotted an error in the schematic, gotta re-upload the corrected one (just a resistor value anyway...)
I did spot how to bring the stone mods to the VP1 schem, that pot is going to replace the resistor between the first 2 transistors, so easy to spot!

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musicstuffed
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Post by musicstuffed »

Hi
I've just joined.
Anyone have a link to a schematic for the aforementioned phaser.

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Post by pinkjimiphoton »

Renegadrian wrote:r18 - not too bad, it's worth...

I made the mod for the pulsing led, no need to get that pin to that resistor
http://www.handmades.com.br/forum/index ... pic=899.15
(step 3) first two steps and the led pulses...actually you don't have to break that line, just lift the led positive leg.
hey bro,
do you mean lift the led negative leg? the jumper connects to the negative leg of the led in the mod above.

i don't know if this will work on all of them, so far no dice on mine, but i hadn't translated the portugese to english to read the page yet.

the three steps above, in english, are :

1 - Break this track

2 - Solder a wire joining these points (jumper)

3 - Join these points also


at the bottom of the page:

"For the record:
The changes to the oscillating led were made on a first version pedal.
It has versions that seem to use a different bypass system. So this mod would not do.
This should be checked."

for the record, i put a cool uv led in mine. ;) but no dice pulsating yet. ;)
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pinkjimiphoton
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Post by pinkjimiphoton »

got it. had to lift the ground side of the led, renegadrian is right, step 3 not necessary.

i did the cap mod, it's a lot different from stock, kinda univibe-ish especially with the vibe mod done. it does that yoy yoy yoy yoy yoy thing pretty well too. used a small push switch. i always seem to bust toggles off ;)

thank you for the schematic it helped me figure out where i screwed it up.. couple of lifted pads ;)

true bypassed, all works great.

thanks to all who posted all these cool mods. :thumbsup :thumbsup :thumbsup
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tabbycat
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Post by tabbycat »

pinkjimiphoton wrote:got it. had to lift the ground side of the led, renegadrian is right, step 3 not necessary.

i did the cap mod, it's a lot different from stock, kinda univibe-ish especially with the vibe mod done. it does that yoy yoy yoy yoy yoy thing pretty well too. used a small push switch. i always seem to bust toggles off ;)

thank you for the schematic it helped me figure out where i screwed it up.. couple of lifted pads ;)

true bypassed, all works great.

thanks to all who posted all these cool mods. :thumbsup :thumbsup :thumbsup
hey jimi, glad to hear you are pushing your vp1 into new territory. a rush and a push...

have done and documented the true bypass for a recent model vp1 (pics for my vp1 bypass above or linked above).
a synchopated flashing led would be classy and damn useful in the dark (will resist going the univibe route until i've had a crack at hollis's easyvibe or found a cheap shakyvibe).

just to get it through my thick head... for the flashing led;

i'm not breaking the track as indicated but lifting the negative leg of the led (next to the arrow indicating the break) and jumpering from t3 to the negative leg of the led?
step three (jumpering from ic3) is not required.

that's as best i can understand it from your description and what i can translate.

thanks for a nod or a shake if i'm pointing in the right direction,

tabbycat.

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pinkjimiphoton
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Post by pinkjimiphoton »

tabbycat,
you nailed it.

just clip the neg side of the led on the side where the visible part exits the board, and tack a wire on to the negative leg, then run it to the transistor as shown. easy breezy.
the led will flash at the rate of the lfo.

the "vibe" mod is easy too and sounds (imho) better than stock... i used a 33k resistor (should have used a 27 and a 3k in retrospect, from each solder pad on the board to the switch) instead of 30k, seems to give a bit more dry signal. works great.

thought about trying to hack in a depth pot, but i think i've had my fill of SMD for the next year or three ;)
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Post by tabbycat »

pinkjimiphoton wrote:tabbycat,
you nailed it.

just clip the neg side of the led on the side where the visible part exits the board, and tack a wire on to the negative leg, then run it to the transistor as shown. easy breezy.
the led will flash at the rate of the lfo.
you are a gent and a scholar, jimi. thanks for the clarification. you nailed it, i was just watching.
this goes on the list for the weekend.

i really like these vp1s. cheap as hell and sound great. may even invest in another to try the univibe thing. i'm no fan of cheap vibes as the cheap imitations sound too seasicky. but the hollis easy vibe i don't mind. we shall see.

alas no thanks button in this thread for some inexplicable reason, but saying it anyway.

tabbycat.

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pinkjimiphoton
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Post by pinkjimiphoton »

all good my friend.
the univibe mod is a little weird, cuz the RANGE is so much different in the speed... like a univibe that's REALLY slow. i'm not completely sold on it.
i'm thinking the caps may need to be played with. if i were gonna do it again, i'd tack wires onto the pads on the pcb, and then experiment some with different caps til it sounds good.
it's kinda neat... sounds a bit like the korg mr multi in double wah mode at some settings, and it's sooooooooo slow it almost sounds like a flange instead of phase shifting when at the slowest speed... the "formant"-y part is SICK. add a fuzz box, put the phaser in a wah shell and ya gotta cheap ludwig phase II kinda sound.
and like you said, they're so bloody cheap, if ya kill it, well... ya can afford to. ;)

i think i'd try more like these values, just off the top of my head... it seems to me like it needs a bit more "unbalance"
C11= 47n
C15= 470n
C10= 470p
C14= 4n7

maybe switch the values of c15 and c16. i thiMk that would effectively make it "seem" to wobble more (anybody know if that would give you two faster sweeps in the same space of time?), but it may distort too. but looking at a univibe or some of the variants that use different caps, the biggest i think i've seen is 1u, so 470n would be about half that. the nomad verberola uses a 1u for the first cap, which may be why it's so damn thick and chewy. i'm kinda afraid to mess with this one too much more, i think there's a finite amount of tinkering you can do with SMD before you accidently kill something. ;)

happy modding ! :mrgreen:
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