TLC2262 IC options when replacing stock Joyo TL062

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Hanky-
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Post by Hanky- »

Hi folks,

I recently acquired a Joyo California pedal which is a clone of the tech21 pedal. Its quite noisy at higher gains settings. Online search revealed the stock ICs being the cause of the noise. The thread on the Tech 21 Character Series had some info regarding replacing the stock one to a TLC2262.

The only place that i can get that from is online at element14 website. The search there revealed a number of results but I'm not sure which one is the correct replacement. Here is a link to the results:http://in.element14.com/Search?storeId= ... st=tlc2262

If anyone could just point in the right direction it would be really helpful. I don't have any knowledge reading the datasheets on ICs, so i'm lost over that. One thing i know is since the pedal is SMD based, the IC would need to be in the same format. Trouble is the search results have a few different ones that are in that format. Also is it useful to change the other quad op amps too? If so then a link to the product page would be great. Any help is appreciated.

Thanks

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Dirk_Hendrik
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Post by Dirk_Hendrik »

What you don't tell is the format of the current opamps in your yoyo. That makes it very hard to determine which would be a suitable replacement.

The choices you show with the Farnell/Newark/Element14 link are DIP, SOIC or TSSOP 8-pin cases. The Joyo is SMT based so you can dump the DIP option. Now use the datasheets linked to determine the case sizes and compare these to the size of the IC's in your Yojo and you have the correct replacement.

Yes, sometimes it's hard to tell the difference between 2 options on the Farnell site.
Sorry. Plain out of planes.

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deltafred
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Post by deltafred »

My guess would be the SOIC package but without a clear photo of the original then it is difficult to say, it may be a TSSOP.

If you have never worked on surface mount PCBs before then I would start by getting some old SMT PCBs to practise on first.
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Post by Hanky- »

Thanks guys.

I checked the stock size of the chips & looks like they are SOIC. I didn't understand what the title description meant in the results page i posted earlier, i thought it was regarding the function of the chips since there were more that one in the SMD type. The pics looked all alike, the datasheet was useful in giving the dimension.

Anyways, i figured out the suffix they (TI) add at the end to the different chip names as well. So I've gone ahead & ordered me a pair of the 62AIDG4 & quad of 64AIDG4. ID stands for industrial temperature, A for low noise version & G4 is lead free contacts i think.

I have worked on my own old nokia cellphone before, the ones with the keypads & a big proprietary connector for usb & audio. It seemed easy enough but the board was stronger & better built. The yoyo board is cheap quality lol. I'm guessing they are using lead free solder on them. I mostly get lead solder at my place & use it with my 25W flat tip iron on my guitars or amps. I do have a 40W iron as well but the last time i worked with lead free solder it was difficult to get it to melt.

I'm guessing the traces on the yoyo board are quite so will have to be careful a bit. The idea I had in mind was to chop the chips close to the pins thus giving me some surface to put the new chips on using lead solder. Would be a quick way to replace with the new one without dealing with having to accidentally ruin the circuit traces with heat, i have no use for the stock chips anyway.

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Post by deltafred »

It sounds like you have SMD experience so go for it.

I would not use lead free solder, most of the repairs I do now seem to be bad solder joints caused by lead free, but that is your choice. IMO lead free is for consumer products that end up in landfill in a few months when the next greatest version comes out, a fate I suspect few stomp boxes suffer.
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Post by Hanky- »

I also work easily with lead free solder. The most common solder found in stores in my country is 60/40, it works easily with a 25W. I have a dunlop wah, when i first got it the CTS type pot they were using started giving problems within a month. When i contacted them about it they sent me a replacement with the pc motherboard type connector soldered to it. The problem was the solder they used was like big drops making it impoosible to fit the pot in wah because the board was blocking it and the replacement was a hotpotz ii. That was my first experience with lead free solder and it took literally 2 minutes to even get it to melt. I didn't know much about different types of solder, i thought that it's made is USA solder so must be high quality lol. Ah memories

Anyways, i got to wait 2 weeks till the chips arrive, i also got me some board mount sockets from amphenol to replace the stock ones, i already have better quality dc sockets with me, it will be a more reliable pedal when i have stuff changed later. Thought about replacing the pots too, but I'll wait till the stock ones start showing signs of wear. :D

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Post by Hanky- »

Okay I finally received the ICs in the mail.

The TLC2262 replacement for the TL062 worked fine, no improvements that I could hear though.

The TLC2264 replacement has caused the pedal to not pass any signal when switched on. I replaced both the tl064c ICs, and nothing changed. I did have to chop the tl064c's to get them out so I cant put them back in to check. Also I did end up ruining a pad on the board for one of the 64s, but looking at the traces I was able to jumper it back to where it should be I guess, no.2 pin pad to be specific, it traces back to pin no.1, still not sure if that's the issue for the malfunction. :scratch: If I max the gain & voice(character) knobs then I get a squeal sound, previously with the original ICs there used to be some weird sound at that setting as well.

Looking at the results of the original ST microcomponents TL064C IC options, it has a supply voltage range of 6V-36V while the TI TLC2264 has 2.2V-8V, I wonder if thats why they aren't a direct substitute in this pedal. It will take a while to get the original ICs used in the pedal at my doorstep. In the meantime any ideas if theres something to check for? I did put the ICs in the correct orientation.

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Post by The G »

Actually, TLC226x and TLC227x's maximum supply voltage is ±8V or 16V from a unipolar power supply. So they should have no trouble being supplied with 9V.
Some wall warts could go beyond the safe voltage, though.

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Post by Hanky- »

I found the issue, yay!! :D :horsey:

It was pin no.4 Vdd+ that had bad solder connection on the 2264 iC. Now its working again.

Although, the problem with the squealing noise at max gain & voice(character) knob together hasn't gone away, not sure if it was worth changing the IC's at all. I did continuity tests at pins for all three replacements to the point they connect, all seem to be connected effectively. My guess is the Op amps are not the only culprit for the noise in these clones. Perhaps something else like wrong value or really really cheap components are the blame for it. I must say the hiss has gone down a bit I think,still I was hoping to fix the unusual squealing problem with the California pedal that seems to plague them in particular. :|

Anyways, this was fun, I have spare 2264 ICs left that I can use on a entirely new different build, I think there are tiny converter pcb boards available for soic to dip, I might get those later, it's a royal pain to work with tiny smd components.

Important Note: To anyone considering doing the IC change experiment like me on the joyo tech 21 clones, be extremely careful when taking out the old stock ICs from the board. thats how I ruined a pad on the board. A 25W iron is plenty hot to melt the solder used on these boards, clean the empty pads after removing the ICs using a wick & then apply flux on the pads and only then follow up by soldering the tinned new iCs.

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