Rehousing cheap pedals
- Entrant_21
- Breadboard Brother
I love my VT999!
Have you the details of the monstrosity mod?
Have you the details of the monstrosity mod?
- Greg
- Old Solderhand
There's certainly plenty of un-used space in that box.
It looks like it could be re-housed into something smaller as long as you were prepared to rework the jacks and switches on that long PCB.. i.e lose the PCB.
Are the pots all board monted ?
The other thing is the tube.. does it get hot, or is it all low voltage ?
It looks like it could be re-housed into something smaller as long as you were prepared to rework the jacks and switches on that long PCB.. i.e lose the PCB.
Are the pots all board monted ?
The other thing is the tube.. does it get hot, or is it all low voltage ?
culturejam wrote: We are equal opportunity exposure artists.
yes, the pots are board mounted (tried to get that in the pic) and the tube is low voltage but does get slightly warm...probably why it's vented-Greg_G wrote:There's certainly plenty of un-used space in that box.
It looks like it could be re-housed into something smaller as long as you were prepared to rework the jacks and switches on that long PCB.. i.e lose the PCB.
Are the pots all board monted ?
The other thing is the tube.. does it get hot, or is it all low voltage ?
I have no idea how you would move the stuff on the long PCB-
thanks
there are details if you want to do the mod yourself on here, I just ordered it because I couldn't find the parts that easily-Entrant_21 wrote:I love my VT999!
Have you the details of the monstrosity mod?
it totally makes a good pedal, a great pedal-
I am new. Hello! I am currently trying to rehouse a Tuna Melt with little success. I have removed the switching board, soldered new pots, switches and jacks to the effects board and built the voltage divider for 4.5v delivery. Is the pinout listed by Cow4prez above correct. It is the first description that I have seen that takes into account the purple wire (4.5v). If all is correct with Cow4prez's wiring definition what would need to be connected to the yellow wire (4053 #5 clip out).
As well he has stated that the speed pot needs a jumper across the old tabs. Is this correct?
Any help would be greatly appreciated.
As well he has stated that the speed pot needs a jumper across the old tabs. Is this correct?
Any help would be greatly appreciated.
FYI
I finally got this up and running last night. I removed the switching board (did not use it in the rehouse) and ran new pots (100 kohm linear), jacks and 9VDC center negative power, and a3PDT switch (for true bypass). I also made a voltage divider to deliver 4.5 vdc to the optical section of the board. The definative pinout for the old 7 wire non surface mount version of the Tuna Melt is (Thanks Cow4prez for steering me in the right direction!!):
purple = 4.5v
blue = output
green = input
yellow = did not use
orange = ground
red = 9v
brown = LED(did not use as I am powering the new LED through the new 3PDT switch)
Done. It was actuall fairly simple once I determined the pinout (I was unsure on what to do with the yellow wire).
Thanks
AZ
I finally got this up and running last night. I removed the switching board (did not use it in the rehouse) and ran new pots (100 kohm linear), jacks and 9VDC center negative power, and a3PDT switch (for true bypass). I also made a voltage divider to deliver 4.5 vdc to the optical section of the board. The definative pinout for the old 7 wire non surface mount version of the Tuna Melt is (Thanks Cow4prez for steering me in the right direction!!):
purple = 4.5v
blue = output
green = input
yellow = did not use
orange = ground
red = 9v
brown = LED(did not use as I am powering the new LED through the new 3PDT switch)
Done. It was actuall fairly simple once I determined the pinout (I was unsure on what to do with the yellow wire).
Thanks
AZ
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- Posts: 6
- Joined: 09 Jul 2009, 09:27
diode protection? would it work to use the diagram thats over on harmony central's chicken salad rehouse instructions? Could someone post a diagram or schematic of just what you connect to the board rather than the whole circuit?
- DWBH
- Cap Cooler
Hey guys, I once tried a French Toast, and although I did find it sounded cool, there were some things about that kept me
So, the bypass was good when there was a buffered pedal before it. If it was the first in the chain, or if all the pedal(s) before it were TB, it would sound like mud, in both on and off positions. If it had a buffer before, it would gain life. It would have more clarity and definition.
Also, the volume. When the volume was full on, it was still below unity. What's up with that?
So was this unit broken, or is this general French Toast's nature?
So, the bypass was good when there was a buffered pedal before it. If it was the first in the chain, or if all the pedal(s) before it were TB, it would sound like mud, in both on and off positions. If it had a buffer before, it would gain life. It would have more clarity and definition.
Also, the volume. When the volume was full on, it was still below unity. What's up with that?
So was this unit broken, or is this general French Toast's nature?
- devastator
- Cap Cooler
Hi,
I'm thiking about rehousing a danelectro chicken salad in a crybaby box, but the speed control is a 100KC dual pot and I wonder if that pot can be installed in the place of the hot potz whitout teaking it or the box ?
the pignion put on the wah pot can be removed and installed on any other pot like that one ? or the metal extremity that actions the cursor has a particular shape to be inserted in the pinion ?
I'm thiking about rehousing a danelectro chicken salad in a crybaby box, but the speed control is a 100KC dual pot and I wonder if that pot can be installed in the place of the hot potz whitout teaking it or the box ?
the pignion put on the wah pot can be removed and installed on any other pot like that one ? or the metal extremity that actions the cursor has a particular shape to be inserted in the pinion ?
Just got a Rocky Road off Ebay. It sounds closer to my Fender Vibratone Leslie than any pedal I've ever heard. I'd like to make it true bypass, do the mod to get rid of the volume boost, and I think Ive heard of a mod to remove a treble boost. I want to rehouse it in a respectable metal housing about the Keeley compressor size with good jacks, Pots, etc... The hardware part seems simple, but I don't know where to start with the electronics, pots, etc. Has anyone here done this? Any help would be greatly appreciated! Thanks!
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- Posts: 9
- Joined: 16 Jul 2009, 20:34
doctorums wrote:i tried searching but couldn't find what i was looking for. could someone help me rehouse my french toast step by step. apologies for total and utter n00bness, i've only got one build under my belt and it was from a kit. schematics are like greek to me, maybe someone has a pictorial or layout or something. thanks in advance.
https://supervelcroboy.wordpress.com/page/2/
- puppiesonacid
- Cap Cooler
its possible to rehouse. check out the other danelectro rehouse tutorials. there is one on the chicken salad here with some very good pictures and methods to true bypass. to measure the values of the pots, break out the multimeter and measure them, or read them ( if its printed on the pot)
hope this helps,
puppiesonacid
hope this helps,
puppiesonacid
- devastator
- Cap Cooler
Hi
I've just received a Chicken salad that I want rehouse in a Hammond box . What are the values of pot ? I can't read that inside.
I think the dual pot (speed) is a 100KC and the trim is 101 ( I think that corresponds to 1K ?) but I don't know the "intensity" value.
I've just received a Chicken salad that I want rehouse in a Hammond box . What are the values of pot ? I can't read that inside.
I think the dual pot (speed) is a 100KC and the trim is 101 ( I think that corresponds to 1K ?) but I don't know the "intensity" value.