I also made a mistake while populating the board and I agree, the through-hole plating makes it a challenge to correct.coi2001 wrote:Hard to desolder the components if you make a mistake, I guess is the double sided plating.
Group buy of EH Bad Stone Phase Shift boards
- B Tremblay
- Breadboard Brother
Information
- Scruffie
- Opamp Operator
I would think a spring loaded pump would be the best to remove solder from through plating rather than braid or those squeezy pumps, but I suppose not everyone has them and even then they might not be 100% (although i've always found them to work well).
What did you both use?
And nice looknig build coi2001, love the carbon comp mojo
What did you both use?
And nice looknig build coi2001, love the carbon comp mojo
- Duckman
- Opamp Operator
Costantino, check you pots!
If you use right angled ones, you must put them on the silk screen side, otherwise you'll got pin 1 and 3 inverted! In fact, you can put them on the solder side, but need to check pot pinout.
Also check your socketed IC's... this little inclination it's usual in this dual leaf sockets and can be solved sliding them a little in a pin 1 - pin 4 direction, just to prevent IC's loosing out from the sockets
Any way, congatullations for your build!
If you use right angled ones, you must put them on the silk screen side, otherwise you'll got pin 1 and 3 inverted! In fact, you can put them on the solder side, but need to check pot pinout.
Also check your socketed IC's... this little inclination it's usual in this dual leaf sockets and can be solved sliding them a little in a pin 1 - pin 4 direction, just to prevent IC's loosing out from the sockets
Any way, congatullations for your build!
- coi2001
- Breadboard Brother
I used a big Weller syringe pump, maybe too big for the job (?), and, as you say, the desoldering braid did not help much. As you may have guessed, the carb comp were used out of necessity rather then mojoScruffie wrote:I would think a spring loaded pump would be the best to remove solder from through plating rather than braid or those squeezy pumps, but I suppose not everyone has them and even then they might not be 100% (although i've always found them to work well).
What did you both use?
And nice looknig build coi2001, love the carbon comp mojo
Costantino
- coi2001
- Breadboard Brother
Thank you for the warning, but the direction of the pots seems correct, i.e., the effect increases by turning them clockwise. I did not put them on the silk screen side because they would not fit over the ICs.Duckman wrote:Costantino, check you pots!
If you use right angled ones, you must put them on the silk screen side, otherwise you'll got pin 1 and 3 inverted! In fact, you can put them on the solder side, but need to check pot pinout.
Also check your socketed IC's... this little inclination it's usual in this dual leaf sockets and can be solved sliding them a little in a pin 1 - pin 4 direction, just to prevent IC's loosing out from the sockets
Any way, congatullations for your build!
I am glad that the inclination of the sockets is usual with the dual leaf ones (I usually use the molded kind), I was starting to think that they were defective. Are you suggesting that I push the left side in or that I shift the pins in that direction?
thanks
Costantino
- Duckman
- Opamp Operator
I rechecked and you're right: in this case, inverting the pots didn't have effect at allcoi2001 wrote:the effect increases by turning them clockwise.
I see in the pictures you use short legs pots. With long legs, you didn't have that problem, but it works any way.coi2001 wrote:I did not put them on the silk screen side because they would not fit over the ICs.
Yes, molded ones offer less problems. When I get this problem, I just slide the IC a little from side to side (I mean from pin 1/8 to pin 4/5) and most of the times you can feel a subtle "click" on your fingers. In that moment, the IC can be pushed down all the way.coi2001 wrote:I am glad that the inclination of the sockets is usual with the dual leaf ones (I usually use the molded kind), I was starting to think that they were defective. Are you suggesting that I push the left side in or that I shift the pins in that direction?
- coi2001
- Breadboard Brother
Thank you, I'll try thatDuckman wrote:I rechecked and you're right: in this case, inverting the pots didn't have effect at allcoi2001 wrote:the effect increases by turning them clockwise.
I see in the pictures you use short legs pots. With long legs, you didn't have that problem, but it works any way.coi2001 wrote:I did not put them on the silk screen side because they would not fit over the ICs.
Yes, molded ones offer less problems. When I get this problem, I just slide the IC a little from side to side (I mean from pin 1/8 to pin 4/5) and most of the times you can feel a subtle "click" on your fingers. In that moment, the IC can be pushed down all the way.coi2001 wrote:I am glad that the inclination of the sockets is usual with the dual leaf ones (I usually use the molded kind), I was starting to think that they were defective. Are you suggesting that I push the left side in or that I shift the pins in that direction?
Regards
- azrael
- Cap Cooler
hai guise.
what enclosures are you guys putting these in? I have mine fully populated, and I think I'll be trying to wire it up soon.
feasible for a 125B, including a manual control on the side?
what enclosures are you guys putting these in? I have mine fully populated, and I think I'll be trying to wire it up soon.
feasible for a 125B, including a manual control on the side?
- Scruffie
- Opamp Operator
I don't know the dimensions of the 125B but I can give you the dimensions of the board - 81.2mm x 60.3mm Approximatleyazrael wrote:hai guise.
what enclosures are you guys putting these in? I have mine fully populated, and I think I'll be trying to wire it up soon.
feasible for a 125B, including a manual control on the side?
It was built with the 1590BB in mind but it might fit I guess
Looking forward to seeing these finished builds.ckyvick wrote:Ordered, cant wait to build this
- ckyvick
- Resistor Ronker
I wish fsb had a pictures/show off your complete build section! There's so much knowledge here and therefore there must be so many freaking amazing builds that we cant even see and cream our pants over!!!Scruffie wrote: Looking forward to seeing these finished builds.
- phibes
- Transistor Tuner
Information
I want to start seeing some bad ass Bad Stone decals!
GuitarlCarl - "TGP = The Gear Polishers"
Ken
Ken
- phibes
- Transistor Tuner
Information
My hand is too big for that high five!
GuitarlCarl - "TGP = The Gear Polishers"
Ken
Ken
- azrael
- Cap Cooler
it's about the exact width, and there's just enough room the switch. I think it can be done! I'm going to see if I can wire it up today after class.Scruffie wrote: It was built with the 1590BB in mind but it might fit I guess
- timbo_93631
- Solder Soldier
Information
- Posts: 243
- Joined: 04 Mar 2010, 17:36
- my favorite amplifier: Low wattage SE amps
- Completed builds: Many many many true bypass and voicing mods on wahs.
A few BYOC kits and DS-1 mods and eventual murder then rebirth into an actually useful pedal, Bad Stone clone, various Rangemasters/SilconMasterBlaster, The worlds greatest gutted GCB-95 volume pedal conversion with various switching options for controlling amps. Repaired many tube amps, scratchbuilt Marshall 18 watt clone and Supro 1616t rebuild. Delays, fuzz, dirt, every Madbean project I could afford. I even manage to find time to make babies with my wife too! - Location: Fresno, Ca
- Has thanked: 14 times
- Been thanked: 33 times
I'm in too! Had to get the LM324's in a quantity, so I'll have some leftovers for anoyne who wants to pay $1 to cover the IC and the shipping in the US.
"I wish to be in the situation of non killing my balls bills, and life surprises." -Sinner
"Everyone gets their shorts in a twist over who polished the fenders. No one cares about who designed the engine..." -DougH
"Everyone gets their shorts in a twist over who polished the fenders. No one cares about who designed the engine..." -DougH
- timbo_93631
- Solder Soldier
Information
- Posts: 243
- Joined: 04 Mar 2010, 17:36
- my favorite amplifier: Low wattage SE amps
- Completed builds: Many many many true bypass and voicing mods on wahs.
A few BYOC kits and DS-1 mods and eventual murder then rebirth into an actually useful pedal, Bad Stone clone, various Rangemasters/SilconMasterBlaster, The worlds greatest gutted GCB-95 volume pedal conversion with various switching options for controlling amps. Repaired many tube amps, scratchbuilt Marshall 18 watt clone and Supro 1616t rebuild. Delays, fuzz, dirt, every Madbean project I could afford. I even manage to find time to make babies with my wife too! - Location: Fresno, Ca
- Has thanked: 14 times
- Been thanked: 33 times
I noticed in the BOM that a 1.5uf Tantalum cap is specified for C13, but the cleaned up schematic shows 1uf. The other schematic, http://topopiccione.atspace.com/pjimage ... ne.sch.gif shows 1.5uf as well so I suppose that is going to be the correct value. Anyone know?
"I wish to be in the situation of non killing my balls bills, and life surprises." -Sinner
"Everyone gets their shorts in a twist over who polished the fenders. No one cares about who designed the engine..." -DougH
"Everyone gets their shorts in a twist over who polished the fenders. No one cares about who designed the engine..." -DougH