Baldwin-Burns - Buzzaround

Torchy · Post by **Torchy** » 22 Nov 2008, 11:41

Try this ...

The pnp tranny is the power switch (Geo), using the ring/sleeve connections. Wire the Batt/DC as you would for a normal neg grnd pedal. Take the fx supply from -9V and Grnd on the right.

noelgrassy · Post by **noelgrassy** » 22 Nov 2008, 12:40

noelgrassy wrote:
But this is not an original and I'd bet this will clear 1K BPS before the auction ends!

Wanna see? It's a bitchin' Black w/ Gold Hammerite finish.
http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/ws/eBayISAPI.dll? ... EL:GB:1123

Final price was 1023 Pounds Sterling!

At that price I hope David will find a way to build a few more of these puppies!

Build 4 or 5 per day and in a month or two you could take a nice vacation and perhaps take your wife with you.

I realize the xistors might be a stumbling block but I find the AC125 works just as well with a little fidgeting of components.

Whoismarykelly · Post by **Whoismarykelly** » 29 Nov 2008, 06:10

A trio of NKT213s arrived today. The one I built with japanese parts sounds amazing so I cant imagine these will be that much better but Ill report back with info once my hardware order arrives.

sugarinthegourd · Post by **sugarinthegourd** » 02 Dec 2008, 03:22

Rather than waiting to find a good set of NKT213s, or paying $10 each plus shipping from the UK for possibly leaky castoffs, I'm going to try building a couple of these using OC76 (NOS Phillips). Any tips on what gain levels I should look for when selecting for U1, U2, U3? Would appreciate any tips.

Also, would any particular Ge diode be better than any other in this circuit? 1N34A? 1N60? AA121?

thanks in advance...

noelgrassy · Post by **noelgrassy** » 03 Dec 2008, 07:05

sugarinthegourd wrote:Rather than waiting to find a good set of NKT213s, or paying $10 each plus shipping from the UK for possibly leaky castoffs, I'm going to try building a couple of these using OC76 (NOS Phillips). Any tips on what gain levels I should look for when selecting for U1, U2, U3? Would appreciate any tips.

Also, would any particular Ge diode be better than any other in this circuit? 1N34A? 1N60? AA121?

thanks in advance...

see page 5 of this thread, second from bottom.

I won't light your ass up for not doing just a little research. I'm in a giving mood.
Next time it might be "sugarintheGasTank".LOL

sugarinthegourd · Post by **sugarinthegourd** » 03 Dec 2008, 12:21

Thanks, I've read the thread numerous times and as I read that post, it was just an educated guess.

Graemey (and others) can probably answer better, but I would "guess" that having Q1 and Q2 in the 40-70hfe range (each) and Q2 in the 120-140hfe range should give pretty good results... lots of sustain without too much "splat".

Anyone confirm these values for Q1, Q2, Q3 work well?

tatter · Post by **tatter** » 03 Dec 2008, 12:59

Hi all, first post from a long-term lurker

Has anyone got any info on the germanium diode in the original Buzzaround? Does it make much difference what type is used? I've got a Buzzaround on breadboard at the moment and have a 1N270 in there, it works fine but i've no idea if it's ideal or not as i'm a bit of a newb. Cheers.

foxfire · Post by **foxfire** » 03 Dec 2008, 16:31

tatter wrote:Hi all, first post from a long-term lurker

Has anyone got any info on the germanium diode in the original Buzzaround? Does it make much difference what type is used? I've got a Buzzaround on breadboard at the moment and have a 1N270 in there, it works fine but i've no idea if it's ideal or not as i'm a bit of a newb. Cheers.

if you have other ge diodes then it can't hurt to try them. if you don't have any and, you like the way it sounds with the 1N270's then i wouldn't worry about it. i know that i'm not really answering your question...
rylan

OccasionalFX · Post by **OccasionalFX** » 04 Dec 2008, 19:22

I just created a tagboard layout...this is pretty close both to the original based on Graeme's pics, and to David Main's recreation.

Haven't built one yet, but I hope to soon...

Let me know what you think & if you see any errors.

Whoismarykelly · Post by **Whoismarykelly** » 05 Dec 2008, 17:52

At first glance that layout looks good. Anyone have a source for those funky tagboards used in the original?

noelgrassy · Post by **noelgrassy** » 05 Dec 2008, 20:59

Whoismarykelly wrote:At first glance that layout looks good. Anyone have a source for those funky tagboards used in the original?

IIRC the pieces I found were scabbed from an old Hammond organ. The solder lugs aren't correct but the "mojo" cancels
any "FAIL" possibility.

viewtopic.php?f=19&t=1211&st=0&sk=t&sd= ... =80#p31035

sugarinthegourd · Post by **sugarinthegourd** » 05 Dec 2008, 23:38

I have some on the way that look like they should work well. I'll post details once I've had a chance to inspect in person.

Back to the NKT213, has anyone ordered from Cricklewood? I'd hate to order at 5 GBP a pop, plus shipping, only to find they're all leaky or don't have the right gain ranges...

Whoismarykelly · Post by **Whoismarykelly** » 07 Dec 2008, 19:41

Gave decals a shot.

Fuzzer · Post by **Fuzzer** » 07 Dec 2008, 23:49

How do you achieve that appearence in the paint? It looks great, congrats.

Whoismarykelly · Post by **Whoismarykelly** » 08 Dec 2008, 02:05

Fuzzer wrote:How do you achieve that appearence in the paint? It looks great, congrats.

Thats just hammerite paint that looks like that after you spray it. That particular can was fucked up so it ended up looking weird.

noelgrassy · Post by **noelgrassy** » 08 Dec 2008, 02:08

WIMK, as always your pedals carry that level of art and function through to completion. The edges of your decals disappeared perfectly.

Are you using Inkjet stylee decals?

Fuzzer, As my Rasta Kung Fu instructor would say, "If you want success to manifest, you must first go troo the learnin' process".

$1 USD sez it's a Hammertone finish with copious clear coats.

Fuzzer · Post by **Fuzzer** » 08 Dec 2008, 04:38

Thangs guys;

Even Fucked up, I like it a lot.

Whoismarykelly · Post by **Whoismarykelly** » 08 Dec 2008, 04:40

noelgrassy wrote:WIMK, as always your pedals carry that level of art and function through to completion. The edges of your decals disappeared perfectly.
Are you using Inkjet stylee decals?

Fuzzer, As my Rasta Kung Fu instructor would say, "If you want success to manifest, you must first go troo the learnin' process".

$1 USD sez it's a Hammertone finish with copious clear coats.

Thanks! I used inkjet decals and they set up really fast in the decal set stuff so the bottom one is a little crooked. It has three coats of clear so it looks pretty nice in person. I just need to finally wire it up

Whoismarykelly · Post by **Whoismarykelly** » 09 Dec 2008, 09:20

I finished another of these today to try some NKT213s in and its pretty close to the smallbear tonebender set-loaded one. Its a little tiny bit more splattery but if I wasn't comparing two pedals side by side I could never tell you which was which. I wouldn't worry too much about the transistors. The Smallbear sets are $14 measured and tested which isn't all that bad considering how much hassle you avoid, especially if you cant find cheap germaniums in lots big enough to match your own sets.

Hanglow · Post by **Hanglow** » 09 Dec 2008, 12:33

Whoismarykelly wrote:At first glance that layout looks good. Anyone have a source for those funky tagboards used in the original?

ampmaker in the uk sells something similar
http://www.ampmaker.com/tb03x.asp

Baldwin-Burns - Buzzaround [schematic]