Here's a vero;
The vero is unverified for the time being, but as always, if anyone spots an error(s), please let me know. I'll be "fine-toothing" it myself, but I believe it should correct. The more eyes the better. It may appear cut off on the right side, but if you save the image to your computer, and open it in a photo editor, it should appear complete. Let me know if there is a problem.
I decided to go with axial caps for most of them, since I could only find the exact values in axial format. The 320uF, I'm replacing with a 330uF. 320's are real tough to find. It does make for a bigger board, but I'm trying to stay as true as possible here. Especially since these are the values that sound the best on my breadboard. You can go with 2.2uF's, instead of the 2.5's, but I found that it made a difference to my ears. With the 2.5's, I got a tiny bit more of a buzz-saw edge to it.
As for the inductor, you can just jumper here, or use anything that comes in under 10 ohms. The true value of the original is still unknown at this time. Truthfully, I tried several different ones, and it makes no audible difference. A jumper will do, but I'm throwing a TDK EL0606 series inductor here, just for mojo
The original circuit used seven BC108B's, and one BC186. I tried 2N3904/2N3906, 2N5088/2N5087, as well as BC108(9)/2N2907 combos. All sound nice, but the MPSA18/2N5087 set up is the one I like the best. In any case, there's gobs of gain, and a ton 'o fuzz. Just plain nasty!
One other change I made from the schematic, is the 150K resistor going to the Drive switch. I've reduced this to 47K on the vero. The 150K was just to much of a "muffler" when the Drive and Edge switches were both off. The 47K allows it to maintain a more decent volume level, whereas the 150K really kills the volume.
So, the parts are ordered, and the board is prepped. One last verification of the vero, and it's build time. Stay tuned....