phatt wrote:Follow what Plush said; Remove the two 220 Ohm resistors (just un solder one end of each resistor).
This will remove the preamp from circuit so the only parts left that can cause a fault are the *Bridge rectifier, the *2 large filter caps* and the *power amp chip*.
IF that negative capacitor still runs hot then there are only 3 things that could cause the fault.
The Neg cap is faulty,, the LM1875 is shot or the diodes in the bridge are stuffed.
Phil.
good day..
thank you sir phatt for replying this again..yeah exactly!! last night i look closely on that section what a coincidence opinion..i check carefully of that large capacitor and the other involve parts there ..im wondering there something there makes this capacitor very hot ..you right what you said i will really dissect it tonight and swipe it meticulously edge by edge on the pcb tracks..
but last time i already change the power amp ic with new one.. but ""a new problem came up""..when i turned on the amp it makes a sudden stops every two minutes a then the signal will appear again..then stop again so i put back the old same power amp ic..and the amp its ok again...
by the way can i change the two 220 ohms resistor into 150 ohms?? like those on marshall mg 30 watts amplifier because im thinking maybe its ok because my amp is 30 watts amp also?? can i swap my Lm1875 with tda 2050 power amp ic just like on that marshall mg 30??