I've designed a Filter Pedal for Bass
Hi guys!
It's been a while since I've posted. I just finished a new pedal that I've been working on and decided to share it with you guys. It's a very simple design with only a few parts. If you want to change the sound of the filter you can change the diode and value of the 4,7 nf cap. I prefer both the 2,2 nf and 4,7 nf on a switch. The 1n4148 give the most clean result. The 10k pot tames the filter intensity. You can abandon it completely if you like mayhem. It can create synth like tones (play with the 4,7 nf cap) and even some funky stuff.
The enclosure is tiny. Was a real adventure to make it fit. Enjoy!
It's been a while since I've posted. I just finished a new pedal that I've been working on and decided to share it with you guys. It's a very simple design with only a few parts. If you want to change the sound of the filter you can change the diode and value of the 4,7 nf cap. I prefer both the 2,2 nf and 4,7 nf on a switch. The 1n4148 give the most clean result. The 10k pot tames the filter intensity. You can abandon it completely if you like mayhem. It can create synth like tones (play with the 4,7 nf cap) and even some funky stuff.
The enclosure is tiny. Was a real adventure to make it fit. Enjoy!
- Dirk_Hendrik
- Old Solderhand
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Thanks.
Do you have this as a schematic as well? I have trouble understanding how the pots are connected. For example, the filter pot goes to the filter connection.. but where does the other side go?
Do you have this as a schematic as well? I have trouble understanding how the pots are connected. For example, the filter pot goes to the filter connection.. but where does the other side go?
not yet. will give it a try though.
lug 1 of the 10k pot goes to pin 2 of the 567 and lug 2 goes to pin 5 of the 567. the volumeknop is just a 100k wired like usual, lug 1 to grnd, lug 2 to output and lug 3 to the output signal of the circuit.
lug 1 of the 10k pot goes to pin 2 of the 567 and lug 2 goes to pin 5 of the 567. the volumeknop is just a 100k wired like usual, lug 1 to grnd, lug 2 to output and lug 3 to the output signal of the circuit.
Someone draw a schematic. Its over at the other place
- Optical
- Breadboard Brother
Chip datasheet http://www.ti.com/lit/ds/symlink/lm567c.pdf
Cool chip.
What about adding a blend with the input signal?
is the 6v reg necessary or just over voltage protection? what about a zener?
Cool chip.
What about adding a blend with the input signal?
is the 6v reg necessary or just over voltage protection? what about a zener?
- marshmellow
- Cap Cooler
The IC has a maximum voltage of 9V, so with the typical battery or power supply, some sort of protection or regulation is necessary. A zener would work too, sure. If you go with the regulator, add input and output capacitors, otherwise the regulator is in danger of oscillation.
It's interesting how your output is working. From the schematic of the internal circuit of the IC, it is clear that the open collector output would need a pullup resistor for normal operation. Might be something to try. Or maybe this is the source of the distortion in your circuit and it should be left like that.
It's interesting how your output is working. From the schematic of the internal circuit of the IC, it is clear that the open collector output would need a pullup resistor for normal operation. Might be something to try. Or maybe this is the source of the distortion in your circuit and it should be left like that.
- marcao_cfh
- Breadboard Brother
Actually, the LM567 works better with voltages around 5-6V than 9V, at least in guitar effects. It's a kind of "bias" setting.
my previous version had in and output caps on the voltage regulator as seen in many of the 780X series datasheets (330nf and 100 nf), but imo theres no difference whatsoever. make sure you use the bigger version and not the 78l06 (those can only go up to 100ma). Im pretty sure you can also use a more common (pedals) 7805. The design is really quiet when not playing. No oscillation whatsoever.
- Manfred
- Tube Twister
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I drew the schematic according the vero layout.FUZZZZzzzz wrote:Someone draw a schematic. Its over at the other place
- marshmellow
- Cap Cooler
The fact that you don't hear it doesn't rule out it's existence. Also, per datasheet of the 567, maximum current draw is 13mA, so the small regulator will do fine.FUZZZZzzzz wrote:my previous version had in and output caps on the voltage regulator as seen in many of the 780X series datasheets (330nf and 100 nf), but imo theres no difference whatsoever. make sure you use the bigger version and not the 78l06 (those can only go up to 100ma). Im pretty sure you can also use a more common (pedals) 7805. The design is really quiet when not playing. No oscillation whatsoever.
Fair enough Thanks for your support! I see the guys at perf and pcb effects layouts also put a 100 uf in the power section. Better safe than sorry I guessmarshmellow wrote:The fact that you don't hear it doesn't rule out it's existence. Also, per datasheet of the 567, maximum current draw is 13mA, so the small regulator will do fine.FUZZZZzzzz wrote:my previous version had in and output caps on the voltage regulator as seen in many of the 780X series datasheets (330nf and 100 nf), but imo theres no difference whatsoever. make sure you use the bigger version and not the 78l06 (those can only go up to 100ma). Im pretty sure you can also use a more common (pedals) 7805. The design is really quiet when not playing. No oscillation whatsoever.
http://effectslayouts.blogspot.com/
- snk
- Resistor Ronker
Interesting, I'm curious and i may build it
Thank you for sharing !
Is there any updated veroboard with diode or regulator and the 100 uf in the power section ?
How would you make the filter effect more "ovbious" (with more resonance, or more cutoff, more "synthy") ? By changing the 4,7 nf cap ?
Thank you for sharing !
Is there any updated veroboard with diode or regulator and the 100 uf in the power section ?
How would you make the filter effect more "ovbious" (with more resonance, or more cutoff, more "synthy") ? By changing the 4,7 nf cap ?
you can take the vero layout at the beginning and just solder a 100 uf cap between the last two rows. If you change the 4.7nf to a 2.2 nf you get a different 'filter' sound. You can also try 1nf or 10 nf. Depends on your liking. My favourites are 2,2 and 4,7 nf
also, if you change the diode to germanium for example you can also change the sound. the 1n4148 are the most quiet and stable
also, if you change the diode to germanium for example you can also change the sound. the 1n4148 are the most quiet and stable
- snk
- Resistor Ronker
Thank you
So, between G1 and H1, that's it ?FUZZZZzzzz wrote:you can take the vero layout at the beginning and just solder a 100 uf cap between the last two rows.
I may use a switch, and see what happensIf you change the 4.7nf to a 2.2 nf you get a different 'filter' sound. You can also try 1nf or 10 nf. Depends on your liking. My favourites are 2,2 and 4,7 nf
I might also try with leds (i tend to prefer leds to germanium, but i will epxeriment. I'm more willing to get a nice filter sound of of it than a "regular" fuzz... Fuzz will be icing on the cakealso, if you change the diode to germanium for example you can also change the sound. the 1n4148 are the most quiet and stable
for what I recall.. 5 mm leds didnt do much in this circuit. I had some cool weird stuff with germaniumsnk wrote:Thank you
So, between G1 and H1, that's it ?FUZZZZzzzz wrote:you can take the vero layout at the beginning and just solder a 100 uf cap between the last two rows.
between 9 v and grnd, yes. the last rows
I may use a switch, and see what happensIf you change the 4.7nf to a 2.2 nf you get a different 'filter' sound. You can also try 1nf or 10 nf. Depends on your liking. My favourites are 2,2 and 4,7 nf
I used a rotary switch for different values, but seem to like 2,2 and 4,7 best
I might also try with leds (i tend to prefer leds to germanium, but i will epxeriment. I'm more willing to get a nice filter sound of of it than a "regular" fuzz... Fuzz will be icing on the cakealso, if you change the diode to germanium for example you can also change the sound. the 1n4148 are the most quiet and stable
also, maybe use a booster in front for a wider use. Ive had some good results with the JHS minibomb clone.. its on vero.. just google. very easy and quite cleanish.
- snk
- Resistor Ronker
Thank you for the tip : i will experiment5 mm leds didnt do much in this circuit. I had some cool weird stuff with germanium
Ah, it's good to know. I didn't know this booster. I'm used the the EHX LPB, and wanted to try the EQD Black Eye, but this one could be a contenderalso, maybe use a booster in front for a wider use. Ive had some good results with the JHS minibomb clone.
- snk
- Resistor Ronker
Hi,
I have made an attempt to a mashup gathering your Filter pedal with the Booster circuit.
I don't have added yet a switch for the 2.2/4.7nF cap.
I am wondering if both electrolytic caps are needed (i added the suggestion to add a 100µF cap to your circuit + the cap from MiniBomb) ?
I am also considering increasing C6 (100nF) to 220nF to allow more bass going into the booster...
Does anyone have any suggestion for improvements ?
PS : Can your circuit run at 18V (and can the MiniBomb too) ?
I have made an attempt to a mashup gathering your Filter pedal with the Booster circuit.
I don't have added yet a switch for the 2.2/4.7nF cap.
I am wondering if both electrolytic caps are needed (i added the suggestion to add a 100µF cap to your circuit + the cap from MiniBomb) ?
I am also considering increasing C6 (100nF) to 220nF to allow more bass going into the booster...
Does anyone have any suggestion for improvements ?
PS : Can your circuit run at 18V (and can the MiniBomb too) ?
- marcao_cfh
- Breadboard Brother
snk wrote:PS : Can your circuit run at 18V (and can the MiniBomb too) ?
marcao_cfh wrote:Actually, the LM567 works better with voltages around 5-6V than 9V, at least in guitar effects. It's a kind of "bias" setting.