i ditch the snubber caps in mine. they take too much "edge" away imho. some transistors DO sound better with them, but not the ones i'm using.
i just revised the project to version 1.4, including all the in/out switching, effects switching, the led's etc... will post it soon as i can up load it.
i'm telling you, them fuckin videos don't do it justice. so far every one who has tried the actual schizoid face live has bought one. in some cases TWO. i can't seem to keep enough of them around. i HAVE used it live on a couple occaisons now, and can absolutely replace my germanium with it with no issues at all. less noise, less hiss, and dependable regardless of temperature.
you should really try it. i can guarantee you will be surprised. it sounds/works WAYYYYYY better than the videos can show it to be. also useful for hot muddy humbuckers, gives a real nice "edge".
the final (ha!) revision includes the led's. it's a happy/sad face. in sad mode (stupid face) the two eyes on the smiley light blue. in happy mode (photon face) they light green.
in bypass, all 4 light up red. cuz i'm an unabashed stoner
just the blue leds for stupid, just green for photon.
use rgb's, common ANODE... then you only need one CLR per led pair. 27k seemed about the best for the CLR.
the rgb's at tayda go from left to right, with anode being longest, red, anode, green, blue
the basic graphic looks like this::( :
people advised to add anti pop resistors, but they really aren't necessary other than one. take it right from the footswitch where it goes to board in to ground. that's it. the other stuff is sufficiently isolated to not cause popping issues. i reccomend 4.7m. works perfect
a pair of 3pdt footswitches allows not only true bypass, but also the light show aspect for the graphic. the layout i'm about to post shows how to do it.
i use 9mm alphas. 1k audio for fuzz, 250k linear for volume.