Power active pickups/stompboxes with AA's

Pickups, wiring schemes, switch techniques and onboard active electronics for guitars and basses
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nianri6
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Post by nianri6 »

I recently made myself a charge pump circuit that fit inside my guitar with active pickups that runs off of 2 AA batteries, and can supply both 9 and 18 volts, and it lasts slightly longer than a standard 9 volt battery. My prototype has a 9 volt connector on it, wired backwards, so that it can be plugged into an existing active setup. Would there be a market for this? The board would pay for itself within the first year of use, since AA's are so much cheaper than a high quality 9V.

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ansil
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Post by ansil »

yeah very nice lets have a look

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nianri6
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Post by nianri6 »

I'll upload pictures of the board I made sometime later tonight. If there's enough interest in it I'll get some PCB's made.

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Post by RnFR »

how about a schematic?
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nianri6
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Post by nianri6 »

I'm working on an electronic copy right now. It works just like the MAX1044 but without the 20ma supply limit, and is much cheaper too. I'm not 100% sure if it can create negative voltages like the MAX1044 can, that's my next project. I was able to create this with 4 transistors, and the limit to the amount of current it can supply depends entirely on the two output transistors as well as the battery of course. Schematic will be up shortly.

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Post by nianri6 »

3v-9v V.2.bmp
3v-9v V.2.bmp (176.94 KiB) Viewed 1462 times
This is my first schematic post so I'm sure I screwed something up, but if you scroll straight down on the picture I attached, you'll see the schematic. Anyway, C1 and C2 control how fast the circuit oscillates, I chose to go with the smallest value I had on hand to make sure the ripple created would not be audible. A smoothing capacitor would not be a bad idea. Anyway, all 4 transistors I used were 2n3904's, which can supply more than enough current for this circuit and are extremely cheap. All diodes are miscellaneous Schottky diodes. C3-C8 are all 4.7 uF non-polarized. All resistors are dependent on the voltage supply, they drop the voltage to .7 volts. I just now realized I forgot the 4th resistor on Q4, sorry about that. Simply adding another 2 diodes and 2 capacitors will add another 3 volts to the output, minus the voltage drops from the diodes.

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ansil
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Post by ansil »

ok its late but i get the osc and the charge pump but usually when you use this type of diode ladder each stage doubles the voltage supply you put in so unless i read this wrong we get 21v minus the diode drop which is schottky which usually is around .3 so that is like 1.8 v so 19.2v or am i just sleepy????? it is late and i worked ten hours at the joe job so i think i will clean the ole glasses and sleep on it and look at it tomorrow.

nice clean circuit though thanks a ton for sharing.

ed

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nianri6
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Post by nianri6 »

Each stage is made up of 2 capacitors and 2 diodes, so it's around 9 volts (minus voltage drops) rather than 21 volts.

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ansil
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too many penguin love's to count.
5 blues pearl purplexed
dozen tube screamer fulldrive whatever you call them variants

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Post by ansil »

ok that makes much more sense sorry don't know how i missed that lol guess i was half asleep as usual :) going to build it though got to order some parts from small bear soon

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Post by nianri6 »

Hey, it happens to all of us lol. Also, you'd probably want to add a fourth stage, using schottky's you'd get 9.9 volts from 4 stages, and 7.2 volts from 3 stages like it is in the schematic. I wasn't counting the voltage drop in my schematic. :slap:
And if you buy from small bear, the part of the circuit that works like the MAX1044 will cost about $1.50 to make, as opposed to over $3 for the chip. And it can output 10x more power. I'm working on getting this to generate negative voltages as well. I'll post a new schematic of how to do that when I work everything out.

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