veroboard question

Frequently asked question on the subject of designing, creating, producing printed boards, veroboards or perfboads and on point-to-point construction techniques.
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ieatyouforbreakfast
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Post by ieatyouforbreakfast »

i just bought a whole bunch of vero/stripboard. it's my first time working with it..

so i was wondering how exactly are trace cuts made?

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MoreCowbell
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Post by MoreCowbell »

I use a 5mm drill bit...

insert the tip in the hole and twist by hand...it will cut away the copper nice and neatly !

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chris_d
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Post by chris_d »

MoreCowbell wrote:I use a 5mm drill bit...

insert the tip in the hole and twist by hand...it will cut away the copper nice and neatly !
Yes. And if you find yourself doing a lot of vero builds you may want to wrap most of the bit with electrical or medical tape so as not to slice up your fingers. It doesn't cut you if you don't, it just is more comfortable for doing lots of trace cuts if you do.

-chris

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alteredsounds
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Post by alteredsounds »

I use a braddle, much easier having the handle, cost about £2

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antchil
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Post by antchil »

when there is a "cut in the trace", how do you guys do this.

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bajaman
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Post by bajaman »

I use a 3.5mm drill with some layers of heatshrink wrapped around it for easier grip :wink:
bajaman

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lefty
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Post by lefty »

a small screw on the end of a magnetic screwdriver. Very simple.

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Beedoola
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Post by Beedoola »

Where can a get strip/vero board? I tried Radioshack but they don't have the strip type. Only perfboard and a other type of PC board - like perf but with a conductive side but all the holes are separated.

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antchil
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Post by antchil »

i ordered mine from diyguitarist

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mantralux
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Post by mantralux »

Just a quick n00b question: how do I know what to connect on the board, if I'm just trying to use the attached picture as a guide? Am I looking at it wrong, does it have indications on what resistors/capacitors/etc that are supposed to be connected....or is it just a population guide that doesn't show anything about what is connected to what?
Attachments
klon_vero.jpg

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modman
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Post by modman »

mantralux wrote:Just a quick n00b question: how do I know what to connect on the board, if I'm just trying to use the attached picture as a guide? Am I looking at it wrong, does it have indications on what resistors/capacitors/etc that are supposed to be connected....or is it just a population guide that doesn't show anything about what is connected to what?
It's not a good idea to do this for a first project. Seriously... please also link to already uploaded attachments, don't upload them again.

Veroboard is different from (pad per hole) perfboard in that all horizontal pads are connected. That's why it's also called stripboad, it consists of long strips of copper.
All components that are soldered to the same horizontal strip, are connected together, unless a cut has been made: these are indacted by the red/white dot boxes.

When you cut the tracks (use a small drill bit and twist it in the hole) you should remember that the drawing is showing the component side and the copper strips are on the backside, when cutting you should create a mirror image of the pattern on the drawing.

Apart from this, there are no pitfalls, and veroboard really is much easier to populate and to modify/correct/desolder, because the components are not connected to each other, but just to the copper strip.
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mantralux
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Post by mantralux »

modman wrote:It's not a good idea to do this for a first project. Seriously... please also link to already uploaded attachments, don't upload them again.

Veroboard is different from (pad per hole) perfboard in that all horizontal pads are connected. That's why it's also called stripboad, it consists of long strips of copper.
All components that are soldered to the same horizontal strip, are connected together, unless a cut has been made: these are indacted by the red/white dot boxes.

When you cut the tracks (use a small drill bit and twist it in the hole) you should remember that the drawing is showing the component side and the copper strips are on the backside, when cutting you should create a mirror image of the pattern on the drawing.

Apart from this, there are no pitfalls, and veroboard really is much easier to populate and to modify/correct/desolder, because the components are not connected to each other, but just to the copper strip.
Sorry, didn't know about the attachment linking.

This is not a project I'm making, it was just a picture of a veroboard to illustrate my question. I'm not a pure n00b, made a couple of kits and such...but I'd like to try and learn to make a pedal from a schematic, and I guess veroboards are best for beginners.

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quaternotetriplet
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Post by quaternotetriplet »

Hi, I'm having a hard time of understanding this one. I have searched google and did not have any success. Anyone knows how to read vero??? :scratch:

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alteredsounds
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Post by alteredsounds »

cut a piece of board to the dimensions of the vero layout picture u r looking at ie. 6 rows by 10 columns), 'X''s or coloured holes mean break the track at that place (use a drillbit or something to stop connectivity from the components on either side), straight lines are jumpers from a hole to a hole (use a bit of wire), push caps resistors etc etc in the same holes as on the layout, ie. a3 to a3 etc. solder the component in place leads on the copper side, make sure there no unwanted accidental bridges. connect off-board bits, pots, jacks etc plug in and have fun or go to a forum frustrated that it doesnt work. Bobs your uncle and fannys ur whatever the saying is......... :D

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quaternotetriplet
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Post by quaternotetriplet »

Thanks now i understand.

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