DIY mini drill press
- rocklander
- Old Solderhand
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- Posts: 2726
- Joined: 18 Apr 2008, 11:33
- my favorite amplifier: my jansen bassman 50
- Completed builds: rebote 2.5; supreaux; odie; heartthrob tremolo; ross phaser; dr. boogey; thor; baja black toast; slow gear attack, rebote, tri-vibe, small clone, little angel, magnus modulus, echo base, hex fuzz, big muff, 22/7.
- Location: Rotorua, New Zealand
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so this is really only proof of concept at this stage but it's looking like it'll work okay.. I need to tidy up a lot of it but I'm pretty happy with the result so far..
it consists of:
a base (offcut of some decking timber I had)
a flushmount from a light switch
some plastic waterpipe
some dowel
a plastic waterpipe mounting bracket
a piece of thin timber to which the bracket above is screwed
a DC drill with 0.8mm chuck (ex ebay for <US$10)
some kind of spring (yet to get this)
some screws to hold it all together
I sourced some pipe from the hardware store (they only sell like a metre at a time so I have way too much now) and found some dowel there too which fit a lil too tight inside... sanding required to ensure the dowel slides up and down inside the pipe.
I attached the flush box to the base board, then drilled a hole in the wood and inserted the pipe.
I cut a straight (at least that was the intention, and in mine is not ,but I have plenty of pipe left so the next one will be better ) line the width of some screws (so they'll be able to slide up and down it) in the pipe down to the level whereby I can see the drill will go past the flush box, but not into the wood.
I aligned the slot so it's at the front and then flipped it over to drill a hole for a small screw through the inside of the base end of the pipe to ensure it can't spin. next, I mounted the DC motor (drill) to a small piece of timber I had (offcut from some trellis) with the waterpipe bracket then lined it up so the drill was straight with the the cut slot (waterpipe) and mounted the trellis timber to the dowel with some screws leaving slightly more than the width of the pipe wall gap between the down and trellis timber.
slide the dowel into the pipe and it's all ready to drill straight up and down.
I need to source a spring to put in the bottom of the pipe and then I'll screw a metal plate over the hole underneath and presto.. should have a mini drill pres.
I'll wire up a switch for the unit on the side and will prolly make up a plate that the drill can pass through and PCBs can sit on.
it looks budget as hell but that stands to reason since it's made to a budget...
it consists of:
a base (offcut of some decking timber I had)
a flushmount from a light switch
some plastic waterpipe
some dowel
a plastic waterpipe mounting bracket
a piece of thin timber to which the bracket above is screwed
a DC drill with 0.8mm chuck (ex ebay for <US$10)
some kind of spring (yet to get this)
some screws to hold it all together
I sourced some pipe from the hardware store (they only sell like a metre at a time so I have way too much now) and found some dowel there too which fit a lil too tight inside... sanding required to ensure the dowel slides up and down inside the pipe.
I attached the flush box to the base board, then drilled a hole in the wood and inserted the pipe.
I cut a straight (at least that was the intention, and in mine is not ,but I have plenty of pipe left so the next one will be better ) line the width of some screws (so they'll be able to slide up and down it) in the pipe down to the level whereby I can see the drill will go past the flush box, but not into the wood.
I aligned the slot so it's at the front and then flipped it over to drill a hole for a small screw through the inside of the base end of the pipe to ensure it can't spin. next, I mounted the DC motor (drill) to a small piece of timber I had (offcut from some trellis) with the waterpipe bracket then lined it up so the drill was straight with the the cut slot (waterpipe) and mounted the trellis timber to the dowel with some screws leaving slightly more than the width of the pipe wall gap between the down and trellis timber.
slide the dowel into the pipe and it's all ready to drill straight up and down.
I need to source a spring to put in the bottom of the pipe and then I'll screw a metal plate over the hole underneath and presto.. should have a mini drill pres.
I'll wire up a switch for the unit on the side and will prolly make up a plate that the drill can pass through and PCBs can sit on.
it looks budget as hell but that stands to reason since it's made to a budget...
world's greatest tautologist ...in the world
Ronsonic wrote:...the lower the stakes the more vicious the combat.
atreidesheir wrote:He should be punched in the vagina.
- Duckman
- Opamp Operator
Lovely concept... a real DIY stuff.
But, what if the PCB is bigger than the drill point? You'll never reach the center area of the PCB. Maybe with a longer arm for the motor, but your accuracy can be possibly affected... Maybe two waterpipes, one on each side (kinda of a CNC look) Just guessing
But, what if the PCB is bigger than the drill point? You'll never reach the center area of the PCB. Maybe with a longer arm for the motor, but your accuracy can be possibly affected... Maybe two waterpipes, one on each side (kinda of a CNC look) Just guessing
- rocklander
- Old Solderhand
Information
- Posts: 2726
- Joined: 18 Apr 2008, 11:33
- my favorite amplifier: my jansen bassman 50
- Completed builds: rebote 2.5; supreaux; odie; heartthrob tremolo; ross phaser; dr. boogey; thor; baja black toast; slow gear attack, rebote, tri-vibe, small clone, little angel, magnus modulus, echo base, hex fuzz, big muff, 22/7.
- Location: Rotorua, New Zealand
- Has thanked: 1406 times
- Been thanked: 231 times
- Contact:
you might, but I don'tDuckman wrote:Atreidesheir posted before
http://www.instructables.com/id/Micro-Drill-Press/
The point is, you need more room, like the example above or like a sewer machine
the link above is actually what inspired me (I'd been asking work colleagues if they had any old microscopes) when I came up with my (I think "improved") idea.
almost all the boards I do are 1590a based anyway, but I think that even the largest pedal pcb I've made (GGG or tonepad fsh and the like) would still be reachable with this one.
that said, I was telling my old boss about what I was doing with this and he said he had an old purpose built mini drill press I could have for nothing so have been using that, heh. it's got a longer reach as you suggest... but I don't need it
world's greatest tautologist ...in the world
Ronsonic wrote:...the lower the stakes the more vicious the combat.
atreidesheir wrote:He should be punched in the vagina.
- Duckman
- Opamp Operator
rocklander wrote:you might, but I don'tDuckman wrote:Atreidesheir posted before
http://www.instructables.com/id/Micro-Drill-Press/
The point is, you need more room, like the example above or like a sewer machine
the link above is actually what inspired me (I'd been asking work colleagues if they had any old microscopes) when I came up with my (I think "improved") idea.
almost all the boards I do are 1590a based anyway, but I think that even the largest pedal pcb I've made (GGG or tonepad fsh and the like) would still be reachable with this one.
that said, I was telling my old boss about what I was doing with this and he said he had an old purpose built mini drill press I could have for nothing so have been using that, heh. it's got a longer reach as you suggest... but I don't need it
In that case...
- Ice-9
- Degoop Doctor
Information
Nice one rocklander, can you add the bits to turn it into a cnc miller for me. Only joking, great DIY project
It's fairly straight forward, if you want to start it , press start. You can work out the rest of the controls for yourself !
No silicon heaven ? preposterous ! Where would all the calculators go ?
No silicon heaven ? preposterous ! Where would all the calculators go ?