Dark T-Shirt Transfers

bato001 · Post by **bato001** » 14 Apr 2012, 03:49

I found the idea for dark T-Shirt transfers here some where and tried it. It works well. I did have some trouble around the pots and bypass switch due to not properly applying heat to the drilled edges, so the transfer bubbled a little when I tightened the nuts down, but all in all the finish came out great!

Thank you to the person or folks here that turned me on to this method.

On the pedal below I used an Avery Dark T-Shirt transfer. I ironed it onto the pedal after drilling the holes, then put 6 or 7 coats of glossy clear coat over it.

The only thing I will do different next time is iron it on, then neatly, and completely, cut out the transfer from the drilled holes, then re-iron those areas to make sure they tack down real well.

ansil · Post by **ansil** » 22 Apr 2012, 06:41

thats cool.... i love bender

bato001 · Post by **bato001** » 23 Apr 2012, 19:47

Thanks Ansil.

bato001 · Post by **bato001** » 26 Apr 2012, 04:36

Did a larger enclosure today with the dark t-shirt transfers. Bought cheapo transfers at Target and they are definitely NOT as good as the Avery brand. I had to sand the first one off because it bubbled from over-heating and the final one is darker in some areas than others, I think that the transfer actually melted thinner in those areas : (

So, either buy the Avery product or be VERY careful applying heat to the cheapos. I am considering sanding the box again and trying better quality transfers this weekend as this box is for a pedal going on sale locally to help fund my quests for NOS germaniums.

Duckman · Post by **Duckman** » 26 Apr 2012, 05:25

Looks nice.

Seiche · Post by **Seiche** » 26 Apr 2012, 10:15

nice idea, i might have to give this one a try.

why don't you drill after finishing?

bato001 · Post by **bato001** » 26 Apr 2012, 16:13

Seiche wrote:nice idea, i might have to give this one a try.

why don't you drill after finishing?

That is probably the best way to do it my friend, but I like to use a sharpie to mark out my drill guides, then remove the drill guide lines with alcohol after drilling (and I am not sure that wouldn't screw up the finish). Plus I am afraid I will slip with the drill or just screw up the finish by being careless

Duckman · Post by **Duckman** » 26 Apr 2012, 16:28

Hey, bato, you can always include the drilling template in you design and save one step.
Just use that extra time to be careful when you're drilling your semi finished box, before painting.
I use that method and works perfectly. Just pre punch your points carefuly and don't hurry when drilling time comes.

A step drill is highly recomended, even if you don't have any kind of press drill.

Seiche · Post by **Seiche** » 26 Apr 2012, 16:56

Duckman wrote:Hey, bato, you can always include the drilling template in you design and save one step.

this. Just include them in the design file, once you drill the marks are gone (you drilled holes in them

).
i don't have a step drill and use 3mm pilot holes to get the exact location and then drill the actual holes.

bato001 · Post by **bato001** » 26 Apr 2012, 17:01

Real nice guys! I will have to try that as it is a much better way than what i have been doing.

BTW, the T-shirt transfer bonds to metal of the box over most of the area, so if you mess it up, it has to be sanded off. The one I sanded off last night took me 20 minutes with a palm sander. So it can be misery if you screw it up LOL.

Duckman · Post by **Duckman** » 26 Apr 2012, 18:58

bato001 wrote:Real nice guys! I will have to try that as it is a much better way than what i have been doing.

BTW, the T-shirt transfer bonds to metal of the box over most of the area, so if you mess it up, it has to be sanded off. The one I sanded off last night took me 20 minutes with a palm sander. So it can be misery if you screw it up LOL.

Again, your life can be easier: use a gas torch and a metal spatula. First, fix the box in some way, but DON'T USE YOUR HANDS; then use the torch, but DON'T BURN IT, just apply some gentle heat on the surface and when it bubbles (or you can check during the process, with the spatula) use the spatula to remove that sticky thing. Let it cool and then the sand paper. Work perfectly with paint and vinilic stickers, so I think it will work with transfers.

Edit: If you don't have a gas torch, you can try in you kitchen, but WATCH OUT YOUR HANDS

bato001 · Post by **bato001** » 28 Apr 2012, 13:30

Duckman wrote:
bato001 wrote:Real nice guys! I will have to try that as it is a much better way than what i have been doing.

BTW, the T-shirt transfer bonds to metal of the box over most of the area, so if you mess it up, it has to be sanded off. The one I sanded off last night took me 20 minutes with a palm sander. So it can be misery if you screw it up LOL.
Again, your life can be easier: use a gas torch and a metal spatula. First, fix the box in some way, but DON'T USE YOUR HANDS; then use the torch, but DON'T BURN IT, just apply some gentle heat on the surface and when it bubbles (or you can check during the process, with the spatula) use the spatula to remove that sticky thing. Let it cool and then the sand paper. Work perfectly with paint and vinilic stickers, so I think it will work with transfers.

Edit: If you don't have a gas torch, you can try in you kitchen, but WATCH OUT YOUR HANDS

Duckman you are full of surprises. I will have to use the torch next time

Duckman · Post by **Duckman** » 28 Apr 2012, 17:50

Thanks, buddy. In fact, to the extent that your skills will progress implementing the transfer, you'll not need the torch