Shielded cable and Ferrite Beads
- Sadcadaver
- Breadboard Brother
I've almost got all my bits together for my second build, a Green Russian Big Muff, and while I was getting ordering stuff I thought I'd get some of this Van Damme shielded cable stuff, to go from my input to switch to PCB.
Now, when I ordered it, I was just expecting some fancy stranded wire, but this stuff appears to be two insulated wires and an uninsulated wire inside a silver sleeve (which I'm presuming is the shielding), and all wrapped up in orange outer insulation. So should I just use one of the internal wires? Should I strip back a bit of the insulation, twist all three bits together and treat it as a big chunky wire? Or should I not bother and just use some ordinary wire?
And the ferrite beads. They were only a few pence, so I thought "Why not?". Do I just put them on a bit of the ordinary wire (I don't think they'll fit over the Van Damme cable). I'm presuming I should just put one or two over the input wire or the positive of the power to the PCB.
Silly questions maybe, but I'd appreciate the help!
Now, when I ordered it, I was just expecting some fancy stranded wire, but this stuff appears to be two insulated wires and an uninsulated wire inside a silver sleeve (which I'm presuming is the shielding), and all wrapped up in orange outer insulation. So should I just use one of the internal wires? Should I strip back a bit of the insulation, twist all three bits together and treat it as a big chunky wire? Or should I not bother and just use some ordinary wire?
And the ferrite beads. They were only a few pence, so I thought "Why not?". Do I just put them on a bit of the ordinary wire (I don't think they'll fit over the Van Damme cable). I'm presuming I should just put one or two over the input wire or the positive of the power to the PCB.
Silly questions maybe, but I'd appreciate the help!
- Hides-His-Eyes
- Tube Twister
Without an immediate need for the second wire you should use one core for the input signal and connect the braid at the input jack.
Testing, testing, won too fwee
- Sadcadaver
- Breadboard Brother
Okay, so let me just make sure I get this right, one cable and the braid (which is the uninsulated strands inside the outer sleeve) soldered to the input of the input jack, but I don't need to solder the braid to the switch? And if I use the shielded cable from the switch to the PCB, do I solder the braid at the switch end but not the PCB end? Or is it pointless using the shielded cable anywhere else?Without an immediate need for the second wire you should use one core for the input signal and connect the braid at the input jack.
Believe it or not, I do use Google before asking these stupid questions!
- Hides-His-Eyes
- Tube Twister
Sorry, the braid goes to GROUND and the core to the SIGNAL at the input jack.
The braid is NOT connected at the switch end and should be covered with electrical tape or heatshrink.
The braid is NOT connected at the switch end and should be covered with electrical tape or heatshrink.
Testing, testing, won too fwee
- Sadcadaver
- Breadboard Brother
Cheers.
Information
just curious... this is maybe a silly question but if you are using van damme screened cable, as it says above..
the braid goes to ground, the core goes to the signal on the input jack... the braid is not connected at the switch end... yes.
Do you still wire up a ground to the jack to be included in the circuit too (so 2 grounds going to jack, one not hooked up and one hooked up) or does this defeat the point of the screened input?
help would be appreciated!
the braid goes to ground, the core goes to the signal on the input jack... the braid is not connected at the switch end... yes.
Do you still wire up a ground to the jack to be included in the circuit too (so 2 grounds going to jack, one not hooked up and one hooked up) or does this defeat the point of the screened input?
help would be appreciated!
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