Dual Buffer Op Amp PCB
Posted: 29 Oct 2013, 03:36
Hi!
Recently I had cause to build an effect that utilized an op amp buffer for input and output buffers. I'll be doing a post in the DIY effects forum in a few days to showcase that once I have proper samples recorded. But here's a teaser, and possibly a useful thing for those of you with etching capabilities but who haven't looked into buffer design yet.
This board assumes you're using any op amp with the "standard" (in reality, conventional) pin-out, such as the *4558, TL072, LM833, etc. Personally I recommend using the TL072 for this as it has huge input impedance and when used in this fashion to provide unity gain, really doesn't introduce any noise into the circuit that you'll ever be able to observe. It's also dirt cheap, you can buy 20 for $6 CAD with free shipping on eBay.
This design is willing to take 18V in place of the 9V pads indicated, so if you're designing something like a Tube Screamer with op amp buffers and caps rated to accept 18V safely (NOT THAT I'D EVER DO SUCH A THING), you can connect this to the 9V/18V rail, and regardless of whether you connect a 9V or 18V power supply, you'll be in good shape.
Assuming of course, that you use 50V caps. As someone who has actually had a 16V cap explode in his face on a regulated 9V supply (good thing I have shitty eyes and wear glasses), I do recommend going over double on your voltage ratings for caps. It barely costs more anyways.
The obnoxious thing about it being modular is that it takes up extra space. The nice thing is, you can easily add it to any design that lacks buffers (many, many boutique designs and older fuzz circuits), making it easy to see which benefit from buffers. Buffers make a difference. This makes it easy to prove that out.
NOTE: I Somehow fucked up my settings in Eagle and the pads on op amps are a bit big. I usually tidy up my etching masks in photoshop before etching. I also usually fill in the areas that can afford a wider trace. YMMV. If you're good at transfers, you should be fine either way. I'm sure the layout could be tighter, especially if you go to standing resistors, but I don't like to exchange width for height.
Recently I had cause to build an effect that utilized an op amp buffer for input and output buffers. I'll be doing a post in the DIY effects forum in a few days to showcase that once I have proper samples recorded. But here's a teaser, and possibly a useful thing for those of you with etching capabilities but who haven't looked into buffer design yet.
This board assumes you're using any op amp with the "standard" (in reality, conventional) pin-out, such as the *4558, TL072, LM833, etc. Personally I recommend using the TL072 for this as it has huge input impedance and when used in this fashion to provide unity gain, really doesn't introduce any noise into the circuit that you'll ever be able to observe. It's also dirt cheap, you can buy 20 for $6 CAD with free shipping on eBay.
This design is willing to take 18V in place of the 9V pads indicated, so if you're designing something like a Tube Screamer with op amp buffers and caps rated to accept 18V safely (NOT THAT I'D EVER DO SUCH A THING), you can connect this to the 9V/18V rail, and regardless of whether you connect a 9V or 18V power supply, you'll be in good shape.
Assuming of course, that you use 50V caps. As someone who has actually had a 16V cap explode in his face on a regulated 9V supply (good thing I have shitty eyes and wear glasses), I do recommend going over double on your voltage ratings for caps. It barely costs more anyways.
The obnoxious thing about it being modular is that it takes up extra space. The nice thing is, you can easily add it to any design that lacks buffers (many, many boutique designs and older fuzz circuits), making it easy to see which benefit from buffers. Buffers make a difference. This makes it easy to prove that out.
NOTE: I Somehow fucked up my settings in Eagle and the pads on op amps are a bit big. I usually tidy up my etching masks in photoshop before etching. I also usually fill in the areas that can afford a wider trace. YMMV. If you're good at transfers, you should be fine either way. I'm sure the layout could be tighter, especially if you go to standing resistors, but I don't like to exchange width for height.