Ibanez fl305 Flanger
I recently acquired an fl305. The previous owner had attmpted to convert it to use two power supplies rather than batteries and I want to convert it back. I dont have the right power supplies so haven't been able to test it so I don't know if it even works. I haven't been able to find a schematic or a guts picture clear enough to show which wires should be attached to each battery. The best picture I have seems to show the #10 and #12 wires to one battery and the #9 wire and the ground wire from the Instrument jack going to the other battery. The previous owner had the #10 and #12 wires going to different jacks. I'd hate to do it wrong and blow it up if it isn't already blown up. Thanks for any help anyone can give me.
Tom
Tom
- Dirk_Hendrik
- Old Solderhand
Information
OK,
from the stuff I see it's pretty difficult to tell for sure where the + wire goes so:
- 1 negative battery snap goes to to the jacks's ring connection. This one switches the power on and off.
- the red, + lug of that snap goes to to #9.
- the 2nd battery snap negative goes to #10.
that leaves us with one red + lug which I find hard to determine.
Therefore, identify capacitor C113, 47uF/25 volts. Mid right side of the board. The + of this cap should connect to a # connection. Find to to which one and you know where the last red battery wire needs to go.
from the stuff I see it's pretty difficult to tell for sure where the + wire goes so:
- 1 negative battery snap goes to to the jacks's ring connection. This one switches the power on and off.
- the red, + lug of that snap goes to to #9.
- the 2nd battery snap negative goes to #10.
that leaves us with one red + lug which I find hard to determine.
Therefore, identify capacitor C113, 47uF/25 volts. Mid right side of the board. The + of this cap should connect to a # connection. Find to to which one and you know where the last red battery wire needs to go.
Thanks Dirk,
The other positive battery wire then foes to #12.
It occurs to me now that the black wires are both grounds and so it may not matter which battery each is connected to. In any case I'm going to connect them as suggested by you and hope it works.
The other positive battery wire then foes to #12.
It occurs to me now that the black wires are both grounds and so it may not matter which battery each is connected to. In any case I'm going to connect them as suggested by you and hope it works.
- Dirk_Hendrik
- Old Solderhand
Information
What you want is to obtain approx 18 volts between #12 and ground.After that you should have approx 12 volts at the 4013, pins 8,9,11, 13 and 14 and on the BBD pins 7,9. Use the FL303 schem on my site for reference. The circuits are in large parts the same. I used the FL303 schem to repair my FL305.
http://dirk-hendrik.com/ibanez_fl303_fllanger.pdf
http://dirk-hendrik.com/ibanez_fl303_fllanger.pdf
- Professor SourTone
- Solder Soldier
Hi everybody - I need to replace the Delay-Level pot on my FL-305, the one on the far right looking from above, knob side.
The pot is marked M50kΩB with 7721 underneath
I'm guessing this is a 50k mixer pot, but what does B mean?
the middle 3 are the same
the Speed pot on the far left is M500kΩC with 4731 underneath.
Thanks for any help.
The pot is marked M50kΩB with 7721 underneath
I'm guessing this is a 50k mixer pot, but what does B mean?
the middle 3 are the same
the Speed pot on the far left is M500kΩC with 4731 underneath.
Thanks for any help.
- Professor SourTone
- Solder Soldier
Ah, OK, so either
B = Linear taper in USA
B = Audio or Log taper in Europe
So I guess the question is which one did Maxon/Ibanez follow? And of course is it a mix pot?
Thanks again.
B = Linear taper in USA
B = Audio or Log taper in Europe
So I guess the question is which one did Maxon/Ibanez follow? And of course is it a mix pot?
Thanks again.
- Dirk_Hendrik
- Old Solderhand
Information
- Professor SourTone
- Solder Soldier
Many thanks - I can post pics of the board but you already have this one in the archive, no?