Total Newbie question - debugging a Fuzz
I built the Fat Furry Freak fuzz pedal from pedalparts.co.uk and now I'm getting clean guitar (bass) with everything turned down but as soon as I move the volume it starts clicking only when I play a note. i checked the soldering and any bridges and the resistor values are correct and the electrolytics are in the correct way. What could be causing this?
I'm using Mylar greenies as capacitors - would they cause it? Would my transistor cause it if they were fried?
like I said - newbie quesion, sorry.
I'm using Mylar greenies as capacitors - would they cause it? Would my transistor cause it if they were fried?
like I said - newbie quesion, sorry.
- Lucifer
- Cap Cooler
It's that wire on the left - no, not that one . . . yeah, that's it.
Only kidding V8Reverb - but with a purpose. A picture is worth a thousand words. A bunch of pictures would be even better.
How about posting a few so we can have a look. There may be something obvious that we can spot.
Only kidding V8Reverb - but with a purpose. A picture is worth a thousand words. A bunch of pictures would be even better.
How about posting a few so we can have a look. There may be something obvious that we can spot.
”Sex is great - but you can’t beat the real thing !” - The Wanker’s Handbook
lol the left one? Which way am I holding the board?
I'm in work at the moment so I'll get you some when I get home.
The only other thing I can think of is dry solder - the solder pads were the smallest I've ever seen, but I made sure it flowed and ended up with a ball on top so i'm not sure - i cut the legs halfway into the solder so something should have come loose if there was a dodgy connection
I'm in work at the moment so I'll get you some when I get home.
The only other thing I can think of is dry solder - the solder pads were the smallest I've ever seen, but I made sure it flowed and ended up with a ball on top so i'm not sure - i cut the legs halfway into the solder so something should have come loose if there was a dodgy connection
After rewiring the pots it still clicked when I was putting a signal through it and then it stopped and all I got was clean bass even if I turned the controls all the way up. Guess I fried something.
Here's the pdf with the schematic if anyone wants to take a look
http://pedalparts.co.uk/wp-content/uplo ... yFreak.pdf
Here's the pdf with the schematic if anyone wants to take a look
http://pedalparts.co.uk/wp-content/uplo ... yFreak.pdf
- LucifersTrip
- Resistor Ronker
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Any good kit / pcb should come with a set of test voltages on the schematic or build instructions so you can troubleshoot.V8Reverb wrote:After rewiring the pots it still clicked when I was putting a signal through it and then it stopped and all I got was clean bass even if I turned the controls all the way up. Guess I fried something.
Here's the pdf with the schematic if anyone wants to take a look
http://pedalparts.co.uk/wp-content/uplo ... yFreak.pdf
I don't see anything on that pdf, unfortunately. I would email PPP.
That being said, it looks like a Fuzz Face variant with added features, so we can guess around what the voltages should be....and even if it wasn't a FF variant, we can still see by the voltages if the transistors are working properly.
So, for better help, please post Q1/Q2 e,b,c voltages
- LucifersTrip
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no, look at the schematic....Q1E is grounded = 0V8Reverb wrote:Q1 - c=1.808v b=102mv e=0v
Q2 - c=1.105v b=1.808v e=1.148v
does that 0v mean q1 is fubar?
but, Q2 is not cool. E should be lowest, then B, and the collector should be the largest....and most likely, the collector will be in the 4-6V range.
as a comparison, look at test voltages (thanx GGG) for a silicon Fuzz Face
Q1
Collector 1.4v
Base 0.6v
Emitter 0.0v
Q2
Collector 4.5v
Base 1.4v
Emitter 0.8v
when your voltages are that far off, the first thing to do is make sure you have the correct pinouts and the correct value components....that's if you're sure the solder joints are good
Yeah sorry I forgot to post that I then realized that the 0v was ground.
I can't be sure that the solder joints are 100% - I did go over them all again, but the solder pads are tiny - I've got a replacement for the Q2 so I'll solder that in and see if things change - could it be R5 too?
I can't be sure that the solder joints are 100% - I did go over them all again, but the solder pads are tiny - I've got a replacement for the Q2 so I'll solder that in and see if things change - could it be R5 too?
- LucifersTrip
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Q2C voltage is probably low but the bigger problem is that the base voltage > collector voltage, so the transistor is not functioning properly. are you sure you took correct measurements and you have the transistor in the correct way?V8Reverb wrote:Should there be that much drop across R5? It's a 20K
Yes to both and I rechecked just now and got the same voltages. I'm going to replace it now and see if it changes anythingLucifersTrip wrote:Q2C voltage is probably low but the bigger problem is that the base voltage > collector voltage, so the transistor is not functioning properly. are you sure you took correct measurements and you have the transistor in the correct way?V8Reverb wrote:Should there be that much drop across R5? It's a 20K
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- Posts: 413
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- my favorite amplifier: Companion Psychedelic Machine
- Completed builds: Mosrite Fuzzrite (Si), Mosrite Fuzzrite (Ge)[2], Get Lo-Fi Fuzz, Fuzz Face (Ge) [2], Fuzz Face (Si) [3], Mos-Face, Vox Tone Bender, Kay Tremolo, Os Mutantes Fuzz [2], Psychedelic Fuzz, Smokey Amp, Sunn Buzz, Jen Fuzz, Fancy Fuzzbox, Muff Fuzz (op amp) [2], Buzz Box, Fuzz King, Rangemaster [5], Maestro FZ - 2/3, Ruby Amp, Orpheum Fuzz (Ge) [4], Great Destroyer, Schizo, Carlsbro Suzz, Shin-Ei Companion Fuzz (si), DOD 250 Gray [2], Super Dirt Fuzz, Fuzz Factory, Jordan Boss Tone, Sam Ash Fuzzz Boxx, Heathkit TA-28 Fuzz, Olson New Sound Fuzz, LRE Fuzz Sound, Green Ringer, Vox Super Beatle (Ge), Colorsound One Knob (Ge), Demon Buzzz [2], Demon Wasp v1, Demon Wasp v2, Super Hard-On, Bazz Fuss, Burns Buzzaround [2], Selmer Buzztone, Shin-Ei Companion Fuzz (Ge), Fuzz Face/FY-2 (Ge), Zonk Machine, Univox Squarewave, Demon Fuzzz, Mosrite Fuzzrite BG-500/1000 (Ge), Univox Superfuzz, Marshall Supa Fuzz, Demon Monster, AA Overdrive/ Retro Fuzz, Tone Bender MKII, Psychtar, Jordan Vica Vibe, etc...
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it's not expected since Q2 is not working....maybe you read 3.5 before because of a bad connection. try reading the voltages again while jiggling the transistor and nearby components.V8Reverb wrote:Ignore the 3.5 at the collector - it's actually 1.186 when i rechecked - not sure why it read 3.5 before - there's no signal coming out at all when I connect the amp and bass now...
i'd start looking for solder bridges/bad joints and start testing continuity between components.
When troubleshooting, it's always best to eliminate everything but the circuit so wire straight thru with no switch.
...and definitely email PPP about voltages
I emailed ppp yesterday and he said "what a great idea! I'll get on to that as soon as possible" and had nothing since. I even asked on his Facebook page. On my way to work atm - I'll get to checking for bad solder joints when I get home later.
Thanks for your help so far
Thanks for your help so far
- sinner
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I'm sorry to go off topic, but I'm so very happy it's not my fuzz again
Is there any one issue that comes up a lot with your design?sinner wrote:I'm sorry to go off topic, but I'm so very happy it's not my fuzz again
I prodded each component, twisted the board, tried to move each one with a pen and the voltage still stayed at 1.186v
When I test before and after R5 - I get 9v before and 1.186 after - which is what the collector voltage is at Q2 - and across R3 its 9v before and 1.8 after which is what the base voltage is at Q2.
R3
R5