MI Audio - Tube Zone 6-Knob Version [Schematic]

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michael_ibrahim
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Post by michael_ibrahim »

You guys are the best! I can't wait to build one :applause:

So how long do you think is it going to take for Joyo to clone one based on your schematics?

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tube-exorcist
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Post by tube-exorcist »

michael_ibrahim wrote:You guys are the best! I can't wait to build one :applause:

So how long do you think is it going to take for Joyo to clone one based on your schematics?
Probably they will do their own tracing - if they think that the pedal is worth to be cloned.
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bucksears
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Post by bucksears »

Quick update on the layout that I posted (good news/bad news)

BAD NEWS: some minor errors on my part (wrong cap values in a couple of places) and the schematic I used at the beginning of this thread. I finally finished mine up and the sound is pretty lousy; on the upside, it DOES work.

GOOD NEWS: The physical layout itself is fine.

MORE GOOD NEWS: I bought a used 6-knob Tube Zone and traced out the top/bottom side and confirmed all parts; I'm going to make the necessary changes to my build to confirm that it works, then update my parts layout with the changes.

The big thing that I noticed immediately when looking inside? The Character, Bright and Mids pots were only using two lugs each. Some other lug connections match up with slightly different parts on the board, too.

The TZ I bought sounds freaking amazing and I'm probably going to build at least one more; definitely the most versatile pedal Ive come across.

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lukatosh
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Post by lukatosh »

could you post pictures from the tubezone that you bought?, maybe we could help tracing it :)...

you know... pics from trace and component side plus components values will work

EDIT:... what version did you buy?

thanks so much!

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bucksears
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Post by bucksears »

It's the same one that is on the first page of this thread: six knobs (volume, gain, tone, mids, bright, character) and a 20k presence trimmer on the board. I don't need help tracing it - it's already done. The schem/pdf file on page 1 of this thread is about 98% matched.

The parts errors/differences are: C7 is .22uF and the .22uF/100K pair at the output is at the collector of Q2, not he emitter. The other differences are wiring.
C6 (10uF), C15 (.1uF) and C18 (.1uF) are actually tantalum in the manufactured version.

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lukatosh
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Post by lukatosh »

wow...thanks man!...

what about the this?
The big thing that I noticed immediately when looking inside? The Character, Bright and Mids pots were only using two lugs each. Some other lug connections match up with slightly different parts on the board, too.
thanks again!

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bucksears
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Post by bucksears »

I'll update everything when I have confirmed my build - I'm ordering some more 1% resistors and tantalum caps as the build calls for. Should be around middle of next week or so.
As far as wiring goes, I think the only pot in the schem that matches the 'live' version is the volume control; everything else is wired up differently.

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pedalgrinder
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Post by pedalgrinder »

seedseed said about the collector on the output transistor thats how i built mine. It is on page 2 the other changes are slight voicing changes nothing major need to learn to read the forum pages more clearly it has been here the entire time!!!
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jymaze
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Post by jymaze »

On page 3 on that thread, I already pointed that C7 should be 220n. I then retracted. I guess I was right after all...

Both will work anyway. Actually, 22n gives even more range (see the Wampler Ecstasy pre-gain bass control).

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bucksears
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Post by bucksears »

pedalgrinder wrote:need to learn to read the forum pages more clearly it has been here the entire time!!!
Wow, seriously?
Just trying to sum it up in one project rather than having to piece it together from scattered updates. Also, the schem on page 1 was never corrected, so there's still some mismatched info out there.
I'm only pointing out what I found in the version that I bought.

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lukatosh
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Post by lukatosh »

in order to clarify things...( considering indications made by @pedalgrinder ,@jymaze and @bucksears), This would be the corrected schematic...

please, let me know if anything is wrong

as you can notice... i've used BC550 (same pinout than BC549). Also i'm kind of confused in potentiometers orientation.


Saludos desde chile!
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schem tubezone.pdf
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jymaze
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Post by jymaze »

Lukatosh,

C18 must be tied to the emitter of Q2, not the collector!

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Post by Nocentelli »

bucksears wrote:the .22uF/100K pair at the output is at the collector of Q2, not he emitter. The other differences are wiring.
jymaze wrote:Lukatosh,

C18 must be tied to the emitter of Q2, not the collector!
aaaah.... Which is it?

:scratch: :hmmm: :scratch:
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lukatosh
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Post by lukatosh »

mmmm... my english is not good, so maybe i misunderstood something...

From...seedseed on page 2
Iam not sure if you guys are all reading the schematic on page one but there is a error i found in it when i built one for myself the output must come out from the collector of the last transistor not the emitter as it will be to quiet if coming from the emitter. It also means that the presence doesn't really work properly unless you take the output from the collector on the last transistor. thought i would mention it encase anyone was finding that

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Post by jymaze »

Ok my bad, you are right. I was just lost... Must be tired today... Too much time spent at work...

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Post by bucksears »

Finished up wiring my clone as close as possible to the real one and there's still something missing. The only thing seems remotely significant is that the real one uses polarized tantalum caps for the .1uF's and I'm using regular polyester (Cornell-Dubelier).
Mine is noisier, but the big difference is that the drive has a bit of a fuzzier sound rather than the tighter overdrive on the original. Almost has that 'splatty'/gated sound when I roll back the gain to around 50-75%. It sounds better with the gain maxed, but not as good as the original.

Do the transistors do much in this circuit? I measured the voltage and it seems like the clone is taking in slightly higher readings than the original.

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Sweetalk
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Post by Sweetalk »

bucksears wrote:Finished up wiring my clone as close as possible to the real one and there's still something missing. The only thing seems remotely significant is that the real one uses polarized tantalum caps for the .1uF's and I'm using regular polyester (Cornell-Dubelier).
Mine is noisier, but the big difference is that the drive has a bit of a fuzzier sound rather than the tighter overdrive on the original. Almost has that 'splatty'/gated sound when I roll back the gain to around 50-75%. It sounds better with the gain maxed, but not as good as the original.

Do the transistors do much in this circuit? I measured the voltage and it seems like the clone is taking in slightly higher readings than the original.
Mmmm check you build a little more, I made several units and all sounded the same as the original, on low and high gain settings.

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Post by rcustoms »

Sweetalk wrote:
bucksears wrote:Finished up wiring my clone as close as possible to the real one and there's still something missing. The only thing seems remotely significant is that the real one uses polarized tantalum caps for the .1uF's and I'm using regular polyester (Cornell-Dubelier).
Mine is noisier, but the big difference is that the drive has a bit of a fuzzier sound rather than the tighter overdrive on the original. Almost has that 'splatty'/gated sound when I roll back the gain to around 50-75%. It sounds better with the gain maxed, but not as good as the original.

Do the transistors do much in this circuit? I measured the voltage and it seems like the clone is taking in slightly higher readings than the original.
Mmmm check you build a little more, I made several units and all sounded the same as the original, on low and high gain settings.
which schema are you using? please share
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Post by coldcraft »

lukatosh wrote:in order to clarify things...( considering indications made by @pedalgrinder ,@jymaze and @bucksears), This would be the corrected schematic...

please, let me know if anything is wrong

as you can notice... i've used BC550 (same pinout than BC549). Also i'm kind of confused in potentiometers orientation.


Saludos desde chile!

are you sure about the values of R3 and R5? as drawn, the two opamps have gains barely bigger than 1x
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Post by jymaze »

Yep, the gain resistors are messed up on your version Lukatosh

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