MI Audio - Tube Zone 6-Knob Version [Schematic]
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- Posts: 11
- Joined: 12 May 2012, 09:47
You guys are the best! I can't wait to build one
So how long do you think is it going to take for Joyo to clone one based on your schematics?
So how long do you think is it going to take for Joyo to clone one based on your schematics?
- tube-exorcist
- Resistor Ronker
Probably they will do their own tracing - if they think that the pedal is worth to be cloned.michael_ibrahim wrote:You guys are the best! I can't wait to build one
So how long do you think is it going to take for Joyo to clone one based on your schematics?
"I've noticed there's an inverse relationship between cost of gear and talent. If you need the most expensive gear to get decent tones, then you suck as a player."
- bucksears
- Solder Soldier
Quick update on the layout that I posted (good news/bad news)
BAD NEWS: some minor errors on my part (wrong cap values in a couple of places) and the schematic I used at the beginning of this thread. I finally finished mine up and the sound is pretty lousy; on the upside, it DOES work.
GOOD NEWS: The physical layout itself is fine.
MORE GOOD NEWS: I bought a used 6-knob Tube Zone and traced out the top/bottom side and confirmed all parts; I'm going to make the necessary changes to my build to confirm that it works, then update my parts layout with the changes.
The big thing that I noticed immediately when looking inside? The Character, Bright and Mids pots were only using two lugs each. Some other lug connections match up with slightly different parts on the board, too.
The TZ I bought sounds freaking amazing and I'm probably going to build at least one more; definitely the most versatile pedal Ive come across.
BAD NEWS: some minor errors on my part (wrong cap values in a couple of places) and the schematic I used at the beginning of this thread. I finally finished mine up and the sound is pretty lousy; on the upside, it DOES work.
GOOD NEWS: The physical layout itself is fine.
MORE GOOD NEWS: I bought a used 6-knob Tube Zone and traced out the top/bottom side and confirmed all parts; I'm going to make the necessary changes to my build to confirm that it works, then update my parts layout with the changes.
The big thing that I noticed immediately when looking inside? The Character, Bright and Mids pots were only using two lugs each. Some other lug connections match up with slightly different parts on the board, too.
The TZ I bought sounds freaking amazing and I'm probably going to build at least one more; definitely the most versatile pedal Ive come across.
- lukatosh
- Solder Soldier
could you post pictures from the tubezone that you bought?, maybe we could help tracing it ...
you know... pics from trace and component side plus components values will work
EDIT:... what version did you buy?
thanks so much!
you know... pics from trace and component side plus components values will work
EDIT:... what version did you buy?
thanks so much!
- bucksears
- Solder Soldier
It's the same one that is on the first page of this thread: six knobs (volume, gain, tone, mids, bright, character) and a 20k presence trimmer on the board. I don't need help tracing it - it's already done. The schem/pdf file on page 1 of this thread is about 98% matched.
The parts errors/differences are: C7 is .22uF and the .22uF/100K pair at the output is at the collector of Q2, not he emitter. The other differences are wiring.
C6 (10uF), C15 (.1uF) and C18 (.1uF) are actually tantalum in the manufactured version.
The parts errors/differences are: C7 is .22uF and the .22uF/100K pair at the output is at the collector of Q2, not he emitter. The other differences are wiring.
C6 (10uF), C15 (.1uF) and C18 (.1uF) are actually tantalum in the manufactured version.
- lukatosh
- Solder Soldier
wow...thanks man!...
what about the this?
what about the this?
thanks again!The big thing that I noticed immediately when looking inside? The Character, Bright and Mids pots were only using two lugs each. Some other lug connections match up with slightly different parts on the board, too.
- bucksears
- Solder Soldier
I'll update everything when I have confirmed my build - I'm ordering some more 1% resistors and tantalum caps as the build calls for. Should be around middle of next week or so.
As far as wiring goes, I think the only pot in the schem that matches the 'live' version is the volume control; everything else is wired up differently.
As far as wiring goes, I think the only pot in the schem that matches the 'live' version is the volume control; everything else is wired up differently.
- pedalgrinder
- Cap Cooler
seedseed said about the collector on the output transistor thats how i built mine. It is on page 2 the other changes are slight voicing changes nothing major need to learn to read the forum pages more clearly it has been here the entire time!!!
What's the best thing about fat chicks and scooters? There both fun to ride around until your mates find out!
- jymaze
- Resistor Ronker
On page 3 on that thread, I already pointed that C7 should be 220n. I then retracted. I guess I was right after all...
Both will work anyway. Actually, 22n gives even more range (see the Wampler Ecstasy pre-gain bass control).
Both will work anyway. Actually, 22n gives even more range (see the Wampler Ecstasy pre-gain bass control).
- bucksears
- Solder Soldier
Wow, seriously?pedalgrinder wrote:need to learn to read the forum pages more clearly it has been here the entire time!!!
Just trying to sum it up in one project rather than having to piece it together from scattered updates. Also, the schem on page 1 was never corrected, so there's still some mismatched info out there.
I'm only pointing out what I found in the version that I bought.
- lukatosh
- Solder Soldier
in order to clarify things...( considering indications made by @pedalgrinder ,@jymaze and @bucksears), This would be the corrected schematic...
please, let me know if anything is wrong
as you can notice... i've used BC550 (same pinout than BC549). Also i'm kind of confused in potentiometers orientation.
Saludos desde chile!
please, let me know if anything is wrong
as you can notice... i've used BC550 (same pinout than BC549). Also i'm kind of confused in potentiometers orientation.
Saludos desde chile!
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- Nocentelli
- Tube Twister
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bucksears wrote:the .22uF/100K pair at the output is at the collector of Q2, not he emitter. The other differences are wiring.
aaaah.... Which is it?jymaze wrote:Lukatosh,
C18 must be tied to the emitter of Q2, not the collector!
modman wrote: ↑ Let's hope it's not a hit, because soldering up the same pedal everyday, is a sad life. It's that same ole devilish double bind again...
- lukatosh
- Solder Soldier
mmmm... my english is not good, so maybe i misunderstood something...
From...seedseed on page 2
From...seedseed on page 2
Iam not sure if you guys are all reading the schematic on page one but there is a error i found in it when i built one for myself the output must come out from the collector of the last transistor not the emitter as it will be to quiet if coming from the emitter. It also means that the presence doesn't really work properly unless you take the output from the collector on the last transistor. thought i would mention it encase anyone was finding that
- bucksears
- Solder Soldier
Finished up wiring my clone as close as possible to the real one and there's still something missing. The only thing seems remotely significant is that the real one uses polarized tantalum caps for the .1uF's and I'm using regular polyester (Cornell-Dubelier).
Mine is noisier, but the big difference is that the drive has a bit of a fuzzier sound rather than the tighter overdrive on the original. Almost has that 'splatty'/gated sound when I roll back the gain to around 50-75%. It sounds better with the gain maxed, but not as good as the original.
Do the transistors do much in this circuit? I measured the voltage and it seems like the clone is taking in slightly higher readings than the original.
Mine is noisier, but the big difference is that the drive has a bit of a fuzzier sound rather than the tighter overdrive on the original. Almost has that 'splatty'/gated sound when I roll back the gain to around 50-75%. It sounds better with the gain maxed, but not as good as the original.
Do the transistors do much in this circuit? I measured the voltage and it seems like the clone is taking in slightly higher readings than the original.
- Sweetalk
- Solder Soldier
Mmmm check you build a little more, I made several units and all sounded the same as the original, on low and high gain settings.bucksears wrote:Finished up wiring my clone as close as possible to the real one and there's still something missing. The only thing seems remotely significant is that the real one uses polarized tantalum caps for the .1uF's and I'm using regular polyester (Cornell-Dubelier).
Mine is noisier, but the big difference is that the drive has a bit of a fuzzier sound rather than the tighter overdrive on the original. Almost has that 'splatty'/gated sound when I roll back the gain to around 50-75%. It sounds better with the gain maxed, but not as good as the original.
Do the transistors do much in this circuit? I measured the voltage and it seems like the clone is taking in slightly higher readings than the original.
- rcustoms
- Resistor Ronker
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which schema are you using? please shareSweetalk wrote:Mmmm check you build a little more, I made several units and all sounded the same as the original, on low and high gain settings.bucksears wrote:Finished up wiring my clone as close as possible to the real one and there's still something missing. The only thing seems remotely significant is that the real one uses polarized tantalum caps for the .1uF's and I'm using regular polyester (Cornell-Dubelier).
Mine is noisier, but the big difference is that the drive has a bit of a fuzzier sound rather than the tighter overdrive on the original. Almost has that 'splatty'/gated sound when I roll back the gain to around 50-75%. It sounds better with the gain maxed, but not as good as the original.
Do the transistors do much in this circuit? I measured the voltage and it seems like the clone is taking in slightly higher readings than the original.
- coldcraft
- Diode Debunker
lukatosh wrote:in order to clarify things...( considering indications made by @pedalgrinder ,@jymaze and @bucksears), This would be the corrected schematic...
please, let me know if anything is wrong
as you can notice... i've used BC550 (same pinout than BC549). Also i'm kind of confused in potentiometers orientation.
Saludos desde chile!
are you sure about the values of R3 and R5? as drawn, the two opamps have gains barely bigger than 1x
Black Dynamite wrote:you need to shut the fuck up when grown folks is talkin.