eda123 wrote:whats with all the spots for missing components?
I was going to post something about this exact topic but found this thread. The PCB's for the Honey Bee, Dyna Red and Model H are all the same...just different spots filled. That being said, I like the way the Bearfoot version sounds. I may be going deaf (and this is from memory)...
BJF Honey Bee - Liked it a lot but it seemed a little anemic in the low end when playing at low volumes. Output was also seemed low.
Mad Professor Honey Bee - A little better in the low end and output improved but fizzy sounding.
Bearfoot Honey Bee - Nicest low end out of the bunch, smoother sounding (like the original) and nice amount of output.
Seiche wrote:so can someone summarize the differences between the bearfoot and the bjfe version one more time, as this thread has been butchered since ibodog has left the building.
Referencing the Yellow Shark schematic...
C5 - 220n in series with a 4.7k resistor.
C10 - 22n
Compare those "different" values with the BJFE's (Yellow Shark schematic) and their function/behavior in the circuit. I didn't bother with most of them for a reason.
I had initially included "R9" as different but, as was later discovered, it is the same value (147K/150K) in the BJFE Honey Bee that was dissected.
You might notice some slight difference by changing C10 (and C4).
WhiteKeyHole wrote:Compare those "different" values with the BJFE's (Yellow Shark schematic) and their function/behavior in the circuit. I didn't bother with most of them for a reason.
I had initially included "R9" as different but, as was later discovered, it is the same value (147K/150K) in the BJFE Honey Bee that was dissected.
You might notice some slight difference by changing C10 (and C4).
I was just posting what I found for educational purposes.
The Rotagilla wrote:Mad Professor Honey Bee - A little better in the low end and output improved but fizzy sounding.
There is no such thing. You mean the Sweet Honey OD, which is totally different from the Honey Bee schematicwise-
You're right, my mistake. A thousand pardons.
upon rereading what i wrote, i realised that my tone could be interpreted as pretty harsh. Apologies! It was simply meant as a FYI
other than that, it's good to know all the right values, because if you build one after the bearfoot version, why not use the right ones?
I noticed that Björn is still insisting that the schematic of the HB is wrong and the clones sounds nothing like the real thing.
The Rotagilla wrote:Mad Professor Honey Bee - A little better in the low end and output improved but fizzy sounding.
There is no such thing. You mean the Sweet Honey OD, which is totally different from the Honey Bee schematicwise-
You're right, my mistake. A thousand pardons.
upon rereading what i wrote, i realised that my tone could be interpreted as pretty harsh. Apologies! It was simply meant as a FYI
other than that, it's good to know all the right values, because if you build one after the bearfoot version, why not use the right ones?
I noticed that Björn is still insisting that the schematic of the HB is wrong and the clones sounds nothing like the real thing.
No worries. I don't contribute much but thrown in some stuff when I can. I had a chance to look at what I thought was one of the better sounding Honey Bees I've tried and thought I'd post the results. I will say that I really liked the Mint Green Mini Vibe as well. I took a quick look at it and there was a lot going on and it wasn't mine to take apart so unfortunately I could not grab pics. It would have been a tough one to decipher from the pics as all the resistors were loaded on end almost completely obscurring the circuit board. Bottom line, it was different enough sounding to be cool and I would definitely spring for one.
The Rotagilla wrote:I will say that I really liked the Mint Green Mini Vibe as well. I took a quick look at it and there was a lot going on and it wasn't mine to take apart so unfortunately I could not grab pics. It would have been a tough one to decipher from the pics as all the resistors were loaded on end almost completely obscurring the circuit board. Bottom line, it was different enough sounding to be cool and I would definitely spring for one.
The Rotagilla wrote:I will say that I really liked the Mint Green Mini Vibe as well. I took a quick look at it and there was a lot going on and it wasn't mine to take apart so unfortunately I could not grab pics. It would have been a tough one to decipher from the pics as all the resistors were loaded on end almost completely obscurring the circuit board. Bottom line, it was different enough sounding to be cool and I would definitely spring for one.
mmolteratx wrote:Did this double sided layout up for PCB mounted pots that will fit in a 1590B. I'm gonna just toss it in the Dorkbot group buy and figured others might want to do the same. So here are the Eagle files. All I request is absolutely no commercial use. No for profit cloning, period.
I have a question about mmolteratx's layout. In order to submit the layout for fabrication for my own usage, aren't there more files needed than just the .brd file? I apologize if this is a foolish question, I'm still trying to get the hang of Eagle. I did contact mmoleratx about the spares he had but have not heard back. Thanks for the help!
I Dorkbot'd mmolteratx's layout which works perfectly (thank you sir!) and build the circuit with the changes I noted. The only only change I made was to sub the red LED's with MA150 diodes. I'm not a big fan of LED's for clipping as they seem to decay unevenly to my ears, the MA150's have a smoother decay. All in all this is a cool little pedal, sounds great with a Tele.
FWIW, there is one error with the layout, though it won't affect the sound. The power filtering is screwed up and there's none for the V+ and reduced filtering for the Vb. Not even sure how that one happened as the scheme shows the correct connections and no inconsistencies were brought up when I used the ERC function. Anyways, I'll upload an updated version in a day or two.
And ya, it's a great circuit to use with a Tele. Though TBH, everything sounds great with a Tele.
The Rotagilla wrote:Reviving a long dead thread for a question. Any way to bump up the output on this circuit, I'd like a little more available volume on tap. Thanks.
Change the R13 C12 combo by reducing the resistance of R13 but increasing C12 by the same ratio. ie reduce R13 by 10X and increase C12 by 10X. This will maintain the freq knee but reduce the effect of R13 on the output.
The Rotagilla wrote:Reviving a long dead thread for a question. Any way to bump up the output on this circuit, I'd like a little more available volume on tap. Thanks.
Change the R13 C12 combo by reducing the resistance of R13 but increasing C12 by the same ratio. ie reduce R13 by 10X and increase C12 by 10X. This will maintain the freq knee but reduce the effect of R13 on the output.
I came upon this looking to boost the output as well.
What values approx. did you come up with (just prior to the last level pot)? 4.7K and 47n area?
I doubt adding a 50k resistor tagged on the ground of the 50k pot might add a bit too?
