Bearfoot - Sparkling Yellow Overdrive 2 (SYOD 2) [traced]

[modman]

Had a buddy in Cali send me some pics. Can't see the resistor values perfectly, but he gave me the cap values and basically it's a tweaked Dyna Red.

[TheLemon]

Tough crowd. I'm guessing the "M" knob is a A1M like used in the Sky Blue's "z" or resonance control, or its like a B5k used in the clipping section between the 220N to change where the distortion lies in the mids.

[IvIark]

Thanks for the scheme, here's a vero layout if anyone wants to give it a try. Based on my Dyna Red layout which is verified so should be good to go.

[Incomplete]

[IvIark]

Tough crowd. I'm guessing the "M" knob is a A1M like used in the Sky Blue's "z" or resonance control, or its like a B5k used in the clipping section between the 220N to change where the distortion lies in the mids.

Oops, didn't realise it was incomplete, I suppose I should at least look at the front of one before doing a layout!
I'll check out the vids later to see what the M knob does

[Seiche]

aaand another one...

[TheLemon]

Heres some ideas from the actual website on the M knob -

"It was 3 knobs but it also had the lowmids control attached to the drive knob in reverse - so you got a beefier clean/low dirt sound and it tightened up for higher dirt settings. The new M control does all of this but also lets you use it in other ways to push the DRD into fuzzier territory or use it as an EQ for cleaner tones - a little mids can go a long way ...... also has the red sparkle paint job and gold lettering."

[Manfred]

I guess that the "M"(Mid) knob potentiometer replaces the 1kOhm resistor which is shown in red marked area in the schematic detail.

M_Knob.jpg

[TheLemon]

Yeah guys, sorry for the rough pics, he said his camera could not capture the details. I'm sure your right about the "M" pot replacing the resistor circled in red.

[Manfred]

In comperation with other BF FX schematics, the "M"-knob circuit could be realized in a uniform manner.

[Quietus]

hi, attached is the vero i just did based on the schematics by both our friend TheLemon and Manfred if anyone's interested. i omitted the 1K resistor that was circled in red, and i referred to Mark's DRD vero layout throughout. i've checked it against the schematic, and i'm fairly confident that it's correct. but could any of you be so kind as to check it against the schematic again just to make sure? thanks all!

[Manfred]

Hi Quietus,

thanks for modifying the layout.
please remain the seriell circuit containig the 1kOhms resistor and the the 200nF capacitor,
because the added feedback circuit which contains the 50kOhm Potentiometer and the other parts, are in parallel to it.
In the "Honey Bee" and in the "Modell H" the FB circuit is wired in the same manner.

[Quietus]

okay, Manfred. noted. so, here you go guys!

[Manfred]

I further difference to the Honey Bee and the Modell H schematic is the FET output circuit.
On the 3 knob SYO schematic is a source follower circuit is shown, the gain is about one.
On the HB and MH the output stage schematic is a source based circuit, the gain is about 2.5 .
It seems to be that a higher gain along with the feed back circuitry is needed.
Is there anyone who knows futher details?

[muhd85]

layout above is working for me. thanks everyone

[Seiche]

modified header to facilitate searching this topic (the pedal's name is "Sparkling Yellow Overdrive 2", not "Sparklin' OSYODv2" or something).

[world vs venkman]

Interesting--thanks!

If I gave the M control a shot in my Dyna Red, would it be advisable to change the values of the caps and resistors associated with it, or would it be fine as-is? It wouldn't be hard to lift one leg of the 1k resistor and add this in (just some creative wiring to fit it).

Thanks!

[lukatosh]

yes!

[mlp-mx6]

Has anyone nailed down the differences between the SYOD 1 and 2? (or the switched components in the 3?)

Thanks,
Michael

[HamishR]

Just built this using Muhammad's layout - thanks Muhammad! It's sounding great, but I did reverse M1 and M2 so that turning the pot up increases mids rather than decreasing them.

The other issue I have is that I'm getting oscillation when M is on full. When M is on full I'm reading around 3ohms between C14 and ground. If I turn M down just a hair so I'm reading just over 4ohms between C14 and ground the oscillation stops. What could be causing this?