Amptweaker - Tight Metal  [traced]

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Re: Amptweaker - Tight Metal

Postby Ichabod_Crane » 28 Oct 2018, 20:07

I'm shocked! Nevertheless, there are many people who buy on tayda :shock:

As you said, maybe there's nothing to do with my issue, but after this I don't know if I can buy IC, transistors or diodes from Tayda.
We are in off topic but actually, I noticed that 2N5088 and 2N5089 are never over 260 hfe. Or 1N914 from Tayda looks different from the ones from Musikding.
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Re: Amptweaker - Tight Metal

Postby Ichabod_Crane » 03 Nov 2018, 15:45

I did just one attempt to mod the volume. I didn't consider the resistor on the board, because (holy crap!) they are correct.
I insert a flying resistor between the lug 3 of the VOlume and the wire. A 47k. And it seems work fine! :D The volume is lower and I can't hear eny difference in the sound (Should I?). I'll calibrate a bit the amount of the resistence, but finally it should fix this weird issue.

Thanks to all, and thanks again for the trick, marshmellow! :wink:

Now, I have to handle the Scoop Pot mod, because following the Aeons schematic I had some problem, instead if I move the 220nF cap close to the 47nF (or where the 100nF original caps were) I can get the expected result.

I just change my mind about the charge pump. I misunderstood this detail, I thought the original has it, but probably not.
What benefit should the charge pump give to it? I think more dynamic and definition? But I think also less gain, even if the Tight metal has tons of it.
If I don't find any reason good enough for my taste probably I'll make the charge pump for another pedal.
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Re: Amptweaker - Tight Metal

Postby Ichabod_Crane » 13 Nov 2018, 16:57

Hi, I still have to try better the resistor before the Volume pot. I have the feeling that the frequency change a bit. :roll:

Menawhile, I tried again the include the Scoop pot with the same unespected result I got early.

Looking at this schematic: download/file.php?id=21886&mode=view I could say I left out C13, the trash switch and R22.
Looking at the Aeons schematic I replaced C15 with a 47nF cap getting a dark and fat sound, then I tried the 220nF, getting the trash mode of the Tight metal.
So now I include the two caps C15a 47nF that goes in the lug 1 of the Scoop pot and C15b 220nF that goes in the lug 3 of the Scoop pot. Lug 2 goes to the ground.
It's all ok when the pot is at min (0k for 47nF), but when the pot is almost at max (0k for 220nF) the sound stop to shrill how could be in the trash mode and gets dull when it's at max.
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Re: Amptweaker - Tight Metal

Postby moonshiner » 17 Mar 2019, 17:17

Ichabod_Crane wrote:I'm shocked! Nevertheless, there are many people who buy on tayda :shock:

As you said, maybe there's nothing to do with my issue, but after this I don't know if I can buy IC, transistors or diodes from Tayda.
We are in off topic but actually, I noticed that 2N5088 and 2N5089 are never over 260 hfe. Or 1N914 from Tayda looks different from the ones from Musikding.

I have bought hundreds of all of the above. The 2n5088 test between 400-550hfe the 2n2059 test between 525=680hfe. I have never recieved a bad part from Tayda.You might have an issue with your tester. I had a bad tester when i first started Harbor Frieght tester was bad, Even the pt2399 are great i bought a bunch off ebay and they were bad must have been factory rejects.
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Re: Amptweaker - Tight Metal

Postby moonshiner » 17 Mar 2019, 17:20

moonshiner wrote:
Ichabod_Crane wrote:I'm shocked! Nevertheless, there are many people who buy on tayda :shock:

As you said, maybe there's nothing to do with my issue, but after this I don't know if I can buy IC, transistors or diodes from Tayda.
We are in off topic but actually, I noticed that 2N5088 and 2N5089 are never over 260 hfe. Or 1N914 from Tayda looks different from the ones from Musikding.

I have bought hundreds of all of the above. The 2n5088 test between 400-550hfe the 2n2059 test between 525=680hfe. I have never recieved a bad part from Tayda.You might have an issue with your tester. I had a bad tester when i first started Harbor Frieght tester was bad, Even the pt2399 are great i bought a bunch off ebay and they were bad must have been factory rejects.

Diodes can perform the same function and be a different casing. I did notice the 1n34a diodes are in a 1n270 body. I actually like them though. I prefer 1n4148 over the 1n914 diodes for clipping diodes.I make a pedal that sounds best with 650 hfe transistors . I bought 50 2n2059 and 35 of them were right at 645-655hfe.
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Re: Amptweaker - Tight Metal

Postby ElPedro1970 » 21 Mar 2019, 15:16

Has anyone cracked open a fat metal to see what differences there are between it and the tight?
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Re: Amptweaker - Tight Metal

Postby J0K3RX » 23 Mar 2019, 17:28

ElPedro1970 wrote:Has anyone cracked open a fat metal to see what differences there are between it and the tight?


I haven't seen any gut shots for the fat metal, fat rock but, they use the same board as fat metal. On the tight rock pro there are extra caps that aren't populated so my guess is the differences would be extra caps, different cap values and resistor values between the tight metal and fat metal, fat rock etc... The differences between the tight rock and tight metal are no more than couple cap and resistor values so why mess with success...
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Re: Amptweaker - Tight Metal

Postby J0K3RX » 25 Mar 2019, 17:06

J0K3RX wrote:
ElPedro1970 wrote:Has anyone cracked open a fat metal to see what differences there are between it and the tight?


I haven't seen any gut shots for the fat metal, fat rock but, they use the same board as fat metal. On the tight rock pro there are extra caps that aren't populated so my guess is the differences would be extra caps, different cap values and resistor values between the tight metal and fat metal, fat rock etc... The differences between the tight rock and tight metal are no more than couple cap and resistor values so why mess with success...


What I meant to say: :slap:
I haven't seen any gut shots for the fat metal, fat rock but, the fat rock uses the same board as tight rock. Since there is little difference between the tight rock and the tight metal it would lead me to believe they are the same as well.
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Re: Amptweaker - Tight Metal

Postby Ichabod_Crane » 25 Mar 2019, 22:39

I noticed some missing parts on the board (R44, C28, C26). It's strange because the Grind Custom FX project, I guess it's a verified and reliable, includes even a charge pump, but it doesn't have 44 resistors (37 including CLR), nor 28 caps (actually the caps are 27).
Could the Fat Rock (and/or Fat Metal) version has more parts or just placed in difference spot, and not just difference value?

Do you explain all my doubts?
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Re: Amptweaker - Tight Metal

Postby Nicht Bernd » 26 Mar 2019, 13:59

But where to buy the pcb?
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Re: Amptweaker - Tight Metal

Postby gainiac » 29 Mar 2019, 22:15

Read all 32 pages of this last week and then built one, just finished, works perfectly & every bit as impressive as this thread led me to believe. Just wanted to stop back and say thanks to J0K3RX, rcustoms, jymaze and everyone else involved in making this a thing, the pedal sounds incredible, great work fellas! :)

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J0K3RX (30 Mar 2019, 23:14), rcustoms (30 Mar 2019, 02:41)
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Re: Amptweaker - Tight Metal

Postby BSA Chawngthu » 28 Apr 2019, 12:54

gainiac wrote:Read all 32 pages of this last week and then built one, just finished, works perfectly & every bit as impressive as this thread led me to believe. Just wanted to stop back and say thanks to J0K3RX, rcustoms, jymaze and everyone else involved in making this a thing, the pedal sounds incredible, great work fellas! :)



Hmmmm looks like i had view and study all 32 pages, but i was very confuse, i read and there is tight metal with a normal 3pdt switch, and then there was a dragon, is this dragon going further, i just like the tight metal, if posible i like the JR verion, which i don't see at this forum, bwhat was this dragon, can anybody tell the difference about tight dragon, tight metal and a tight metal junior.
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Re: Amptweaker - Tight Metal

Postby BSA Chawngthu » 28 Apr 2019, 13:08

Still, yeah a very difficult from an indian here, but we a Mizo are quite different from the mainland Indian, we follow the western, and we are the western of India, quite differences here, Vinnie moor, manowar, firehouse, petra, gnr and every hard rocker are in our blood, and so many more had come here, they don't know about the mainland india, but they sure know about the northeast here, i of all the electronics here would like to present what my people believe that "it is out of reach " is here " i may provide them but very confuse here.
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Re: Amptweaker - Tight Metal

Postby jhergonz » 29 Apr 2019, 07:16

BSA Chawngthu wrote:
gainiac wrote:Read all 32 pages of this last week and then built one, just finished, works perfectly & every bit as impressive as this thread led me to believe. Just wanted to stop back and say thanks to J0K3RX, rcustoms, jymaze and everyone else involved in making this a thing, the pedal sounds incredible, great work fellas! :)



Hmmmm looks like i had view and study all 32 pages, but i was very confuse, i read and there is tight metal with a normal 3pdt switch, and then there was a dragon, is this dragon going further, i just like the tight metal, if posible i like the JR verion, which i don't see at this forum, bwhat was this dragon, can anybody tell the difference about tight dragon, tight metal and a tight metal junior.


dragon is tight metal and tight rock in one box.
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Re: Amptweaker - Tight Metal

Postby jhergonz » 29 Apr 2019, 07:17

And I think the JR versions are the same with the bigger versions, but in a smaller enclosure and less features.
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Re: Amptweaker - Tight Metal

Postby BSA Chawngthu » 30 Apr 2019, 08:53

jhergonz wrote:And I think the JR versions are the same with the bigger versions, but in a smaller enclosure and less features.



Ok that i understood, but what confused me most is the "double tight dragon", what does this "double" exactly means, is it TR and TM in one PCB.
I would like to build the simple working one, whose version should i build? Please i need your suggestion. Most of the electronic parts are at hand but confused to whose version i should build, also a very junior here in this hobby ( had completed only 1 pedal i.e MXR Dist.+, after joining this forum)
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