Lovetone - Meatball [traced]
- LaceSensor
- Cap Cooler
I'll upload it tommorow no problem...
- gilmour_pugliese
- Resistor Ronker
thank you so much, I wanna use your text layout for the rotary switches... the last time I've used rotary switches, I've failed the text disposition on the graphicsLaceSensor wrote:I'll upload it tommorow no problem...
- LaceSensor
- Cap Cooler
- gilmour_pugliese
- Resistor Ronker
LaceSensor wrote:Hi
Feel free to use modify repost.
recommend you print a test page and made sure it aligns with your build.
FYI this was done in paint, and isnt a pro image, but it works for me....ymmv
thank you!
- nightraven
- Breadboard Brother
pretty sure the Intens knob controls the cutoff frequencyteej212 wrote:is there anyway to modify this to have cutoff frequency control?
https://fuzzboxes.org | authoritative and clickbait-free resource for 1960s fuzz pedals
- pedalgrinder
- Cap Cooler
Hi all,
I've built lots of different pedals and the building and electronics i've been fine with. My artwork on the pedals is usually not much better than a labelling machine. How do you guys get prints like that to either adhere to the boxes. Do you print them or do you print them directly to the paper or do you use paper that is sticky? What is the process that you use? I'd like to make my pedals look as good as some of the ones i've seen. I guess i've never sat there and worried if it has a pretty picture on it as long as thing works properly but i would like to start to get them to look better. Some of you guys do some amazing artwork on them it blows me away with some i see. Thanks
I've built lots of different pedals and the building and electronics i've been fine with. My artwork on the pedals is usually not much better than a labelling machine. How do you guys get prints like that to either adhere to the boxes. Do you print them or do you print them directly to the paper or do you use paper that is sticky? What is the process that you use? I'd like to make my pedals look as good as some of the ones i've seen. I guess i've never sat there and worried if it has a pretty picture on it as long as thing works properly but i would like to start to get them to look better. Some of you guys do some amazing artwork on them it blows me away with some i see. Thanks
What's the best thing about fat chicks and scooters? There both fun to ride around until your mates find out!
- teej212
- Breadboard Brother
intensity looks to me like a depth pot for the envelope LEDnightraven wrote:pretty sure the Intens knob controls the cutoff frequencyteej212 wrote:is there anyway to modify this to have cutoff frequency control?
- LaceSensor
- Cap Cooler
Self adhesive inkjet vinyl plus clear coat acrylic automotive spraypedalgrinder wrote:Hi all,
I've built lots of different pedals and the building and electronics i've been fine with. My artwork on the pedals is usually not much better than a labelling machine. How do you guys get prints like that to either adhere to the boxes. Do you print them or do you print them directly to the paper or do you use paper that is sticky? What is the process that you use? I'd like to make my pedals look as good as some of the ones i've seen. I guess i've never sat there and worried if it has a pretty picture on it as long as thing works properly but i would like to start to get them to look better. Some of you guys do some amazing artwork on them it blows me away with some i see. Thanks
- LaceSensor
- Cap Cooler
With the graphic I posted you need to spread out the rotary labels a touch, they arent 100% lined up
- gilmour_pugliese
- Resistor Ronker
- Nocentelli
- Tube Twister
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Finally plucked up the courage to attempt breadboarding this ridiculous circuit. After a small amount of frustration, it's working pretty well now. Hooray!
For anyone else who attempts this, a couple of things helped me get it going: First off, the attack and decay controls are highly interactive: The filter won't trigger unless they are set so the decay is shorter than attack (or vice versa - my pots have the wrong tapers and are wired backwards so it's confusing). I read it in the manual, and again elswhere online several times, but as I was testing it I kept forgetting this and assuming it wasn't working, until I found the trigger point again by twiddling those two knobs relative to each other. This is made much easier by my second tip, which is to definitely breadboard it with the sweep indicator LED that's paralleled with the LEDs in the vactrols: You get a clear visual indication of if, and how the vactrols are sweeping as you debug.
Thirdly, I was working off two very similar schematics - One which didn't have the colour pot lug 1 clearly connected to the output of the second opamp in the envelope section, and neither of which had the colour pot lugs 2+3 connected. This seems to be known as the "colour mod" online, but I'm convinced it's how the originals were done - Without it the colour pot does very little until the last quarter turn, which doesn't appear to be how it works in demo videos of the OG pedal. These titbits are buried in the "Building the Meatsphere" thread at DIYSB and scattered elsewhere across the internet, but I thought it might be handy to record them here.
For anyone who has already built it: What controls do you use the most and least? I'm going to box this up as a pretty straight clone for a bass-player friend, but I'm going to drop a few switches for a version for my own personal use. I only really like the lowest range setting caps, and might just have a high/low two-way switch for variety. I'm equally not that fussed with the high pass mode, though this probably personal taste. Also, I've only tested the bandwidth by physically swapping the caps a couple of times, settled on the lower 22n and left it be: Is it that useful?
For anyone else who attempts this, a couple of things helped me get it going: First off, the attack and decay controls are highly interactive: The filter won't trigger unless they are set so the decay is shorter than attack (or vice versa - my pots have the wrong tapers and are wired backwards so it's confusing). I read it in the manual, and again elswhere online several times, but as I was testing it I kept forgetting this and assuming it wasn't working, until I found the trigger point again by twiddling those two knobs relative to each other. This is made much easier by my second tip, which is to definitely breadboard it with the sweep indicator LED that's paralleled with the LEDs in the vactrols: You get a clear visual indication of if, and how the vactrols are sweeping as you debug.
Thirdly, I was working off two very similar schematics - One which didn't have the colour pot lug 1 clearly connected to the output of the second opamp in the envelope section, and neither of which had the colour pot lugs 2+3 connected. This seems to be known as the "colour mod" online, but I'm convinced it's how the originals were done - Without it the colour pot does very little until the last quarter turn, which doesn't appear to be how it works in demo videos of the OG pedal. These titbits are buried in the "Building the Meatsphere" thread at DIYSB and scattered elsewhere across the internet, but I thought it might be handy to record them here.
For anyone who has already built it: What controls do you use the most and least? I'm going to box this up as a pretty straight clone for a bass-player friend, but I'm going to drop a few switches for a version for my own personal use. I only really like the lowest range setting caps, and might just have a high/low two-way switch for variety. I'm equally not that fussed with the high pass mode, though this probably personal taste. Also, I've only tested the bandwidth by physically swapping the caps a couple of times, settled on the lower 22n and left it be: Is it that useful?
modman wrote: ↑ Let's hope it's not a hit, because soldering up the same pedal everyday, is a sad life. It's that same ole devilish double bind again...
- gilmour_pugliese
- Resistor Ronker
Hi, it's possible to have a little scheme of this mod? I've built a Meatsphere a long time ago, but I'm never been satisfied with itNocentelli wrote: Thirdly, I was working off two very similar schematics - One which didn't have the colour pot lug 1 clearly connected to the output of the second opamp in the envelope section, and neither of which had the colour pot lugs 2+3 connected. This seems to be known as the "colour mod" online, but I'm convinced it's how the originals were done - Without it the colour pot does very little until the last quarter turn, which doesn't appear to be how it works in demo videos of the OG pedal. These titbits are buried in the "Building the Meatsphere" thread at DIYSB and scattered elsewhere across the internet, but I thought it might be handy to record them here.
- gilmour_pugliese
- Resistor Ronker
Hi, after a bad experience with my first Meatsphere (equipped with VTL5C3), I've bought a second PCB... This time I wanna use LDR+5mm diffuse green LEDs.
These LDRs are good or not?
http://www.ebay.it/itm/10PCS-LDR-Photoc ... 233d4e88d0
specs:
Model: GL5528
Maximum voltage (V-dc): 150
Maximum power consumption (mW): 100
Ambient temperature (° C): -30 --- +70
Spectral peak (nm): 540
Light resistance (10Lux) (KΩ) :10-20
Dark Resistance (MΩ): 1
100λ10: 0.6
Response Time (ms): rose: 20
thanks
These LDRs are good or not?
http://www.ebay.it/itm/10PCS-LDR-Photoc ... 233d4e88d0
specs:
Model: GL5528
Maximum voltage (V-dc): 150
Maximum power consumption (mW): 100
Ambient temperature (° C): -30 --- +70
Spectral peak (nm): 540
Light resistance (10Lux) (KΩ) :10-20
Dark Resistance (MΩ): 1
100λ10: 0.6
Response Time (ms): rose: 20
thanks
- Nocentelli
- Tube Twister
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I should think they'll be fine: I used some cheap ones from Tayda with similar specs and they work great.
modman wrote: ↑ Let's hope it's not a hit, because soldering up the same pedal everyday, is a sad life. It's that same ole devilish double bind again...
- gilmour_pugliese
- Resistor Ronker
Thank you... Vactrols are fuck1ng expensive and not the best choice for this pedalNocentelli wrote:I should think they'll be fine: I used some cheap ones from Tayda with similar specs and they work great.
- LaceSensor
- Cap Cooler
go 2M dark or more wiith green LEDs FTW
- gilmour_pugliese
- Resistor Ronker
I've ordered the LDRs posted above, and now I'm searching some 2M dark... LDRs are pretty cheap, so the experimentation is really funnyLaceSensor wrote:go 2M dark or more wiith green LEDs FTW
- LaceSensor
- Cap Cooler
gilmour_pugliese wrote:I've ordered the LDRs posted above, and now I'm searching some 2M dark... LDRs are pretty cheap, so the experimentation is really funnyLaceSensor wrote:go 2M dark or more wiith green LEDs FTW
socket them until you are happy; same with the LED choice.
- Nocentelli
- Tube Twister
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- Joined: 09 Apr 2009, 07:06
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Going to redo my meatclone so drew up the switching for toggles
modman wrote: ↑ Let's hope it's not a hit, because soldering up the same pedal everyday, is a sad life. It's that same ole devilish double bind again...