freestompboxes.org

A little anecdote:
My professor from analog design saw the gut shuts posted earlier in this thread on my computer screen during class today. He looked at me, and said: "If you built that, You're failing my class!"

For the adventurous: Here's a 1590B layout with board mounted pots, with proper space around the components to facilitate a clean build.
Once we get the last pieces of the puzzle, I'll share an OSH-park link for a cheap, compact two layer board ready to build.

Seppuku guy: If you're reading this, my PCB drawing skills are up for hire. It looks like you need a hand with that

grrrunge wrote:Seppuku guy: If you're reading this, my PCB drawing skills are up for hire. It looks like you need a hand with that

Wow, that's a bit of an elitist statement. At least he makes interesting pedals. I've had most of mine for a long time and traveled with them and have never had a problem with the pedals failing on me. It might look sloppy, but they hold up very well. Maybe I'm more pragmatic when it comes to pedals, but I couldn't care less how they look on the inside as long as they can take a beating and sound great, which all of Rhys' ("Seppuku guy's") pedals do. My 2 cents.

UglyCasanova wrote:

grrrunge wrote:Seppuku guy: If you're reading this, my PCB drawing skills are up for hire. It looks like you need a hand with that

Wow, that's a bit of an elitist statement. At least he makes interesting pedals. I've had most of mine for a long time and traveled with them and have never had a problem with the pedals failing on me. It might look sloppy, but they hold up very well. Maybe I'm more pragmatic when it comes to pedals, but I couldn't care less how they look on the inside as long as they can take a beating and sound great, which all of Rhys' ("Seppuku guy's") pedals do. My 2 cents.

Fair enough. I suppose our views on this matter differs a great deal.

I would never design a pcb for production purposes, where the components would have to be mounted on top of each other, "hovering" over the pcb with exposed leads, and then assemble the whole thing with blobs of solder hanging all over. In my opinion that's a direct invitation for unit failure, and a sign that you're not serious about your customers. As a plus for the builder, a properly designed board will be much easier to assemble.

The fact that the circuit sounds cool is a whole different story! I woudn't have shown this much interest in this pedal, if I didn't think it sounded great, and I'm grateful that You've taken the time to shoot pics and give info about the unit You bought, for the rest of us to analyze.

If Rhys' reading this:
Kudos on the sounds, They're awesome, and many of the Seppuku FX pedals I've heard sound cool and inspiring in a weird and refreshing way!
Don't take my comment on build quality too harshly, apparently it's working out just great for you My offer is still standing though...

No, man. My bad, sorry. I was in a shitty mood, and having massive respect for Rhys work I just took your comment too seriously. Maybe some of it got lost in translation too (norwegian here).

I posted the guts because it's a pedal he doesn't make anymore (I think mine is from '09), and just didn't consider the fact that what's going on inside the enclosure on an aesthetical level actually matters to people. Here, of all places, I should have imagined and understood the enjoyment of vero/circuitboard-pr0nz.

Again, sorry for overreacting.

Here's to making amends:

No worries I know the feeling! Not to mention, you're reading your translation to norwegian of the ramblings of a dane writing stuff in english
And yes! Most people here appreciate tight looking gut shots

edited previous post with pics.

grrrunge wrote:Seppuku guy: If you're reading this, my PCB drawing skills are up for hire. It looks like you need a hand with that

+1

Having worked in R&D labs where we made commercial quality PCBs I would agree with this 100%.

If you are just making a one off for yourself then an amateur looking board is ok (but not with components stacked on top of each other). It does not take a lot more effort to line the components up and have them north - south and/or east - west on the board. Components on long leads is just bad practice, they are prone to the leads breaking if subject to vibration. I could go on but won't.

If you are making them to sell then they need to be up to a certain standard, one that Seppuku misses completely. (IMO, YMMV of course.)

Updated schematic and PCB overlay with values
http://ada.graudal.dk/seppuku_fuzz_over ... ematic.png
http://ada.graudal.dk/seppuku_fuzz_over ... verlay.png

Fast and artistic! Thanks grrrunge!

Don't thank me, thank UglyCasanova for providing all the details

UglyCasanova: If you should ever happen to be in Copenhagen with time to spare, hit me up, and I'll buy you a beer.
Heck! I'll buy two if you want. My girlfriend lived in Tromsø for 10 years. I know how ridiculously expensive alcohol is around your parts

Thanks for this trace everybody!
Here is an unverified vero, I'll give this one a crack tomorrow.
http://guitar-fx-layouts.42897.x6.nabbl ... loader.png

I hope you guys enjoy its sounds as much as I do!

Grrrunge: I might just take you up on that offer. Me and the misses take the Ferry over to København every now and then. Drink good (and cheap!) beer and eat great cheese!

$7.50 for three PCB's shipped anywhere. Build away! https://oshpark.com/shared_projects/4bdOqyOl
It should be noted that this layout has not yet been verified, but it follows the traced schematic 100%
This fits in a 1590B enclosure with board mounted 16mm pots and plenty of room for everything else.
I took the liberty of using 5mm electrolytics and 5x3.5mm box film caps for everything, as that seems to be fairly standard sizes for the cap values used. I see no need for 100V rated film capacitors in this circuit, 63V should be fine.

Just built this on vero and it works! It's in the Death by Audio and Devi Ever ballpark. I really dig the texture control which pans beetween bassy overdrive and full blown out blistering fuzz.

Here's another layout to throw into the mix.This one should fit in a 1590a if you play your cards right. I've added an optional daughter board for the pots to try and cut down on off board wiring.

d312a wrote:Thanks for this trace everybody!
Here is an unverified vero, I'll give this one a crack tomorrow.
http://guitar-fx-layouts.42897.x6.nabbl ... loader.png

does anyone think this design has it's fundaments/fundamentals in anything else they are familiar with? i tentatively suggested devi's 'torn's peaker' but am guessing that was a wild shot too wild. seppuku seems to like the escobedos. what's it's lineage?

@d132a hey d312a, glad to hear you've got a working vero layout. would like to try building this weekend but the link is 404. any chance of checking it?

tabbycat wrote:

d312a wrote:Thanks for this trace everybody!
Here is an unverified vero, I'll give this one a crack tomorrow.
http://guitar-fx-layouts.42897.x6.nabbl ... loader.png

does anyone think this design has it's fundaments/fundamentals in anything else they are familiar with? i tentatively suggested devi's 'torn's peaker' but am guessing that was a wild shot too wild. seppuku seems to like the escobedos. what's it's lineage?

@d132a hey d312a, glad to hear you've got a working vero layout. would like to try building this weekend but the link is 404. any chance of checking it?

Here's the new link:
http://guitar-fx-layouts.42897.x6.nabbl ... loader.png

tabbycat wrote: does anyone think this design has it's fundaments/fundamentals in anything else they are familiar with? i tentatively suggested devi's 'torn's peaker' but am guessing that was a wild shot too wild. seppuku seems to like the escobedos. what's it's lineage?

It looks like a fuzzrite with two extra transistors tacked onto the end. There may be a more recent circuit that provided inspiration, but no Devi ever or Escobedo circuit uses that texture control to blend out-of-phase input stage with the full fuzz sound.

I recieved a few boards from OSH-park today of the layout posted earlier. I built one right away, and they're working perfectly. Consider that verified and buildable

Is this a super sensitive circuit? I've got it on the breadboard right now, had to make a few substitutions - used a 100 ohm in place of the 10, 220nf instead of 180nf, 220uf instead of 100uf, 2k2 for 2k7 and a 4k7 for 3k9. Through a Jaguar (low output) it's really gated. Turning off the neck pickup barely cracks the gate at all. What's making it work this way? I'm guessing the 4k7 at Q4? Does anyone have working voltages their willing to share?