Re: smallsound/bigsound mini
Posted: 14 Jul 2016, 10:15
i got mine completed in an etched 1590B with top jacks and it sounds just like my original:
tracing pedals since 2007
https://www.freestompboxes.org/
damn. looks amazing! i love that layout too. might be some nice inspiration for a new layout of my own...johnk wrote:i got mine completed in an etched 1590B with top jacks and it sounds just like my original:
Should be expect some future Minis with soft switches?smallsnd/bigsnd wrote:damn. looks amazing! i love that layout too. might be some nice inspiration for a new layout of my own...johnk wrote:i got mine completed in an etched 1590B with top jacks and it sounds just like my original:
Hey John.. do you mind sharing what you use for a stomp-switching circuit? It looks like a relay bypass.. do you buy them from someone pre-made or make them yourself? I've been weary to jump into the relay world for fear of time-delays when stomping... i've read that some circuits have a noticeable delay between the stomp and the effect engaging.johnk wrote:i got mine completed in an etched 1590B with top jacks and it sounds just like my original:
burgerkong wrote:First off, much thanks for the schematics Brian!
Secondly, I've noticed that there are two pads, namely 'PAD1' and 'PAD3' that are unused (or don't show up) in other people's layouts - what are they used for?
I've included my schematic below, D3's LN5158 was replaced with a LN5817 (now D2) as seen in a vero board layout, was there a specific reason to do so? I've added (or rather will add) two traces to take the input/output from the stomp switch upn to the top mounted jacks hence the disconnected portions at the bottom.
Alex's vero board layout has a LN5817 in place of the original diode:smallsnd/bigsnd wrote:burgerkong wrote:First off, much thanks for the schematics Brian!
Secondly, I've noticed that there are two pads, namely 'PAD1' and 'PAD3' that are unused (or don't show up) in other people's layouts - what are they used for?
I've included my schematic below, D3's LN5158 was replaced with a LN5817 (now D2) as seen in a vero board layout, was there a specific reason to do so? I've added (or rather will add) two traces to take the input/output from the stomp switch upn to the top mounted jacks hence the disconnected portions at the bottom.
those 2 pads are for the offboard wiring to the BIAS (offboard) pot.
i'm sorry but i don't quite understand your 2nd question?
oh whoops that was a typo on my original schem. should have read - 1n5818 but 1n5817 will of course work just the same.burgerkong wrote: Alex's vero board layout has a LN5817 in place of the original diode:
http://tagboardeffects.blogspot.ca/2016 ... drive.html
Perhaps I should be asking him haha. I combined the 10K trimpot in series after the 10k bias as recommended, do the pad numbers corresepond to the pot legs, as in pad 3 pulls to VD+ and pad 1 links up with leg 1? Or do I have it totally baskwards/fubar'd? Lol, regardless, thanks for the reply!
Sweet. Fixed my schematic (attached), I deleted the 4.7k resistor (R24) since presumably that's for the LED which will be on my switch breakout (offboard).smallsnd/bigsnd wrote:oh whoops that was a typo on my original schem. should have read - 1n5818 but 1n5817 will of course work just the same.burgerkong wrote: Alex's vero board layout has a LN5817 in place of the original diode:
http://tagboardeffects.blogspot.ca/2016 ... drive.html
Perhaps I should be asking him haha. I combined the 10K trimpot in series after the 10k bias as recommended, do the pad numbers corresepond to the pot legs, as in pad 3 pulls to VD+ and pad 1 links up with leg 1? Or do I have it totally baskwards/fubar'd? Lol, regardless, thanks for the reply!
as for the bias knob wiring, it's a little confusing on my schematic because until now no one else had to read it but me... you wire V+ to the trim, then from the trim to 3 on the bias knob, 2 on bias goes to the 2n5457.
as for the wiring, it's whichever way makes you happy - the pot is linear so neither way is wrong - i prefer higher voltage to be clockwise (which is what i just outlined)
errrr not exactly. ripup the connections you just made to that 220uf and BIAS1.burgerkong wrote: Sweet. Fixed my schematic (attached), I deleted the 4.7k resistor (R24) since presumably that's for the LED which will be on my switch breakout (offboard).
Cheers, Brendan
I used to make them myself (etch them) but OSH park now has them which is the same version hat I drew up. there's no delay with this one.notnews32 wrote:Hey John.. do you mind sharing what you use for a stomp-switching circuit? It looks like a relay bypass.. do you buy them from someone pre-made or make them yourself? I've been weary to jump into the relay world for fear of time-delays when stomping... i've read that some circuits have a noticeable delay between the stomp and the effect engaging.johnk wrote:i got mine completed in an etched 1590B with top jacks and it sounds just like my original:
nice job johnk.. just an question : what's the pcd "under the footswitch" ??johnk wrote:i got mine completed in an etched 1590B with top jacks and it sounds just like my original:
guigui_jones wrote:nice job johnk.. just an question : what's the pcd "under the footswitch" ??johnk wrote:i got mine completed in an etched 1590B with top jacks and it sounds just like my original:
Thanks?
it's the same on all of them.guigui_jones wrote:Hello everybody.
I wish to start the realization of the mini but I"m a little lost in the indication of the transistors ..
On " bubstance" post..
Q1 2N5089
Q2 J201
Q3 2N5457
Q4 J201
On schematic
Q2,Q3, Q4 2N5457T
Q6 2N5089T
On Brian post "i use J201 for Q2 and Q4, 2N5457 for Q3"
On " storyboardist" image (typon)
Q1, Q3 => J201
Q2, 2N5457
Q4, 2N5089
Could you help me make the right choice?
Great Thanks.