freestompboxes.org

i got mine completed in an etched 1590B with top jacks and it sounds just like my original:

johnk wrote:i got mine completed in an etched 1590B with top jacks and it sounds just like my original:

damn. looks amazing! i love that layout too. might be some nice inspiration for a new layout of my own...

Nice work, John! Love top mounted jacks in a 1590B.

smallsnd/bigsnd wrote:

johnk wrote:i got mine completed in an etched 1590B with top jacks and it sounds just like my original:

damn. looks amazing! i love that layout too. might be some nice inspiration for a new layout of my own...

Should be expect some future Minis with soft switches?

First off, much thanks for the schematics Brian!

Secondly, I've noticed that there are two pads, namely 'PAD1' and 'PAD3' that are unused (or don't show up) in other people's layouts - what are they used for?

I've included my schematic below, D3's LN5158 was replaced with a LN5817 (now D2) as seen in a vero board layout, was there a specific reason to do so? I've added (or rather will add) two traces to take the input/output from the stomp switch upn to the top mounted jacks hence the disconnected portions at the bottom.

johnk wrote:i got mine completed in an etched 1590B with top jacks and it sounds just like my original:

Hey John.. do you mind sharing what you use for a stomp-switching circuit? It looks like a relay bypass.. do you buy them from someone pre-made or make them yourself? I've been weary to jump into the relay world for fear of time-delays when stomping... i've read that some circuits have a noticeable delay between the stomp and the effect engaging.

Sorry to derail the thread...notnews32 it's in this thread.

viewtopic.php?f=7&t=24484&p=248648#p248648

I've thought about going that route, but stumbled upon this...

http://effectslayouts.blogspot.com/2016 ... ching.html

It's a little more cost effective but I haven't tried either to compare.

FWIW, here's a WIP on a 1590B compatible layout with PCB mounted pots and jacks. Looks super crowded I know, and you'll need to scrape out a channel on the bottom of the input jack so it clears the pot pads. Still tweaking positioning.

burgerkong wrote:First off, much thanks for the schematics Brian!

Secondly, I've noticed that there are two pads, namely 'PAD1' and 'PAD3' that are unused (or don't show up) in other people's layouts - what are they used for?

I've included my schematic below, D3's LN5158 was replaced with a LN5817 (now D2) as seen in a vero board layout, was there a specific reason to do so? I've added (or rather will add) two traces to take the input/output from the stomp switch upn to the top mounted jacks hence the disconnected portions at the bottom.

ss_bs.jpg

those 2 pads are for the offboard wiring to the BIAS (offboard) pot.
i'm sorry but i don't quite understand your 2nd question?

smallsnd/bigsnd wrote:

burgerkong wrote:First off, much thanks for the schematics Brian!

Secondly, I've noticed that there are two pads, namely 'PAD1' and 'PAD3' that are unused (or don't show up) in other people's layouts - what are they used for?

I've included my schematic below, D3's LN5158 was replaced with a LN5817 (now D2) as seen in a vero board layout, was there a specific reason to do so? I've added (or rather will add) two traces to take the input/output from the stomp switch upn to the top mounted jacks hence the disconnected portions at the bottom.

ss_bs.jpg

those 2 pads are for the offboard wiring to the BIAS (offboard) pot.
i'm sorry but i don't quite understand your 2nd question?

Alex's vero board layout has a LN5817 in place of the original diode:

http://tagboardeffects.blogspot.ca/2016 ... drive.html

Perhaps I should be asking him haha. I combined the 10K trimpot in series after the 10k bias as recommended, do the pad numbers corresepond to the pot legs, as in pad 3 pulls to VD+ and pad 1 links up with leg 1? Or do I have it totally baskwards/fubar'd? Lol, regardless, thanks for the reply!

burgerkong wrote: Alex's vero board layout has a LN5817 in place of the original diode:

http://tagboardeffects.blogspot.ca/2016 ... drive.html

Perhaps I should be asking him haha. I combined the 10K trimpot in series after the 10k bias as recommended, do the pad numbers corresepond to the pot legs, as in pad 3 pulls to VD+ and pad 1 links up with leg 1? Or do I have it totally baskwards/fubar'd? Lol, regardless, thanks for the reply!

oh whoops that was a typo on my original schem. should have read - 1n5818 but 1n5817 will of course work just the same.
as for the bias knob wiring, it's a little confusing on my schematic because until now no one else had to read it but me... you wire V+ to the trim, then from the trim to 3 on the bias knob, 2 on bias goes to the 2n5457.

as for the wiring, it's whichever way makes you happy - the pot is linear so neither way is wrong - i prefer higher voltage to be clockwise (which is what i just outlined)

smallsnd/bigsnd wrote:

burgerkong wrote: Alex's vero board layout has a LN5817 in place of the original diode:

http://tagboardeffects.blogspot.ca/2016 ... drive.html

Perhaps I should be asking him haha. I combined the 10K trimpot in series after the 10k bias as recommended, do the pad numbers corresepond to the pot legs, as in pad 3 pulls to VD+ and pad 1 links up with leg 1? Or do I have it totally baskwards/fubar'd? Lol, regardless, thanks for the reply!

oh whoops that was a typo on my original schem. should have read - 1n5818 but 1n5817 will of course work just the same.
as for the bias knob wiring, it's a little confusing on my schematic because until now no one else had to read it but me... you wire V+ to the trim, then from the trim to 3 on the bias knob, 2 on bias goes to the 2n5457.

as for the wiring, it's whichever way makes you happy - the pot is linear so neither way is wrong - i prefer higher voltage to be clockwise (which is what i just outlined)

Sweet. Fixed my schematic (attached), I deleted the 4.7k resistor (R24) since presumably that's for the LED which will be on my switch breakout (offboard).
Cheers, Brendan

burgerkong wrote: Sweet. Fixed my schematic (attached), I deleted the 4.7k resistor (R24) since presumably that's for the LED which will be on my switch breakout (offboard).

ss_bs6.jpg

Cheers, Brendan

errrr not exactly. ripup the connections you just made to that 220uf and BIAS1.
BIAS1 should not be connected or connected to BIAS2.
220uf should be between the 10ohm and ground.

notnews32 wrote:

johnk wrote:i got mine completed in an etched 1590B with top jacks and it sounds just like my original:

Hey John.. do you mind sharing what you use for a stomp-switching circuit? It looks like a relay bypass.. do you buy them from someone pre-made or make them yourself? I've been weary to jump into the relay world for fear of time-delays when stomping... i've read that some circuits have a noticeable delay between the stomp and the effect engaging.

I used to make them myself (etch them) but OSH park now has them which is the same version hat I drew up. there's no delay with this one.

it's called "Andy Relay TQ2-L2-5V copy"

it does have one resistor value mislabeled though and I sent them an email about it but they just ignored it.

johnk wrote:i got mine completed in an etched 1590B with top jacks and it sounds just like my original:

nice job johnk.. just an question : what's the pcd "under the footswitch" ??

Thanks?

guigui_jones wrote:

johnk wrote:i got mine completed in an etched 1590B with top jacks and it sounds just like my original:

nice job johnk.. just an question : what's the pcd "under the footswitch" ??

Thanks?

Oups.. sorry.. i reed your post to late with my english->french translate..

Hello everybody.
I wish to start the realization of the mini but I"m a little lost in the indication of the transistors ..

On " bubstance" post..
Q1 2N5089
Q2 J201
Q3 2N5457
Q4 J201

On schematic
Q2,Q3, Q4 2N5457T
Q6 2N5089T

On Brian post "i use J201 for Q2 and Q4, 2N5457 for Q3"

On " storyboardist" image (typon)
Q1, Q3 => J201
Q2, 2N5457
Q4, 2N5089

Could you help me make the right choice?
Great Thanks.

guigui_jones wrote:Hello everybody.
I wish to start the realization of the mini but I"m a little lost in the indication of the transistors ..

On " bubstance" post..
Q1 2N5089
Q2 J201
Q3 2N5457
Q4 J201

On schematic
Q2,Q3, Q4 2N5457T
Q6 2N5089T

On Brian post "i use J201 for Q2 and Q4, 2N5457 for Q3"

On " storyboardist" image (typon)
Q1, Q3 => J201
Q2, 2N5457
Q4, 2N5089

Could you help me make the right choice?
Great Thanks.

it's the same on all of them.
J201 for the first stage, 2n5457 for the second stage, J201 for the third stage and 2N5089 (or similar BJT) for the last stage.

Great thanks Brian.. i'm a newbie....

Just discovered this awesome thread. I was going to attempt to build this little monster, but had a question first.

What is the minimum voltage on the 220uf cap? I have some of those cool low profile Lelon caps, but they are only rated 10V.

I'm not sure how to tell from a schematic what the voltage requirements are for a given component.