Friedman BE-OD Pedal  [traced]

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alltrax
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Post by alltrax »

rmroza wrote:alltrax, thanks for the clips of your vero build! At 1:29-1:30 between setting 2 and 3 there seems to be quite a bit of noise!
I was playing sitting on the floor just in front of the amp :wink:
rmroza wrote:I'd like to verify traces also (maybe something wrong with the PCB), but the Buggs boards are dark and a lot of silkcreen (which cannot be removed due to a conformal coating on top of that. It would be nice to have both sides trace clean so could check point to point for continuity especially before assembly, but we'll have to cross that bridge when we get to it.
That's very easy to do with the schematic and your DMM

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psychepool
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Post by psychepool »

I wonder about C12 mod.
Is it the 120pF cap that installs parallel with BAV99?
Which value is recommanded? 470pF? or other higher value?
Is there any change of sound?

I love this pedal very much but the oscillation is just one fault for me.

If the c12 mod reduces the oscillation with no change of sound, it would be best for me.


alltrax, this is one of my 1590A pedal.
It's a Okko Diablo clone.
0adcd7ef-f3f7-4d88-ad26-b0d39eb02ba7_650.jpg
I already sold this pedal because of the hassle of operation.
I thought the sound of this pedal was similar to that of OCD, but the OCD is much simpler to operate, so I do not use it well.
But after I sold it, I kept thinking about it, and now I regret that I sold it. :(

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alltrax
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Post by alltrax »

Thanks psychepool, that must be a tight fit
The C12 change from 120 to 470p does not change the sound (at least to my ears)

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bugg
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Post by bugg »

jalmonsalmon wrote: This guy has 40 Pedals to make and sell... hahaha good luck at $170 a pop :slap:
Isn't that the fella who posted his PCB a couple pages back?

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rmroza
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Post by rmroza »

It would be nice if we could just have ONE "FSB" PCB instead of people re-creating the wheel and re-badging everything! My $0.02

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andlord
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Post by andlord »

bugg wrote:
jalmonsalmon wrote: This guy has 40 Pedals to make and sell... hahaha good luck at $170 a pop :slap:
Isn't that the fella who posted his PCB a couple pages back?
Yeah looks like his work. This is exactly how it went down with the slocline forum. People invested time to reverse engeneer something and others took it for free and sold it for profit.

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bmxguitarsbmx
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Post by bmxguitarsbmx »

rmroza wrote:It would be nice if we could just have ONE "FSB" PCB instead of people re-creating the wheel and re-badging everything! My $0.02
That's a good point. Who is in charge here anyway? :P :P :P

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Jan1966
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Post by Jan1966 »

Business Business I have pedals cheaply. You buy

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Belanger88
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Post by Belanger88 »

it was supposed to be posted in Canadian currency, not in US$ so it's actually a lot cheaper than that and I'm sorry if somehow I offended anyone. I see people take schematics and make them into boards all the time on here I honestly didn't know people would get so upset and it's been removed and not a single original Friedman will be built on one of these boards again but a modified version instead and won't be referred to as a clone of the Friedman. I thought I was doing the right thing by mentioning that it was a clone of it and I'll be more careful in the future :slap: I know ignorance is no excuse hopefully everyone can accept it truly was a genuine mistake made by someone just starting out at this and not some malicious attempt at f%cking everyone here over
Success is no accident. It is hard work, perseverance, learning, studying, sacrifice and most of all, love of what you are doing or learning to do.

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bugg
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Post by bugg »

Bah, I personally don't think you've broken some horrible "moral code" ... So you offered some clones for sale? Who cares?

It might be different if you had ripped off someone elses PCB layout and claimed it as your own, but you designed your own. (and a damn fine looking board at that)

I don't think anyone was really bashing you for selling them, I just think the price seemed a bit high compared to the original pedal... That's between you and the potential buyer, who cares? :D

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d95err
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Post by d95err »

I've completed my build with bugg's pcb. Had a bit of oscillation at first, which was due to the input and output wires being too close at the footswitch. Easy fix and now it works flawlessly.

I actually made it 2-channel, with a second footswitch to select between separate gain and volume controls.

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toneman
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Post by toneman »

d95err wrote: I actually made it 2-channel, with a second footswitch to select between separate gain and volume controls.
Ahhhh :slap:
dpdt/volume & gain :wink: that's how u did it :applause:
watching the Pete Thorn video, it looked like the treble and presence and gain controls didnt do all that much :scratch:

i'm thinking of switching out the 4148s to get that "2nd tone" :hmmm:
or even making 3 diodes in series each way instead of 2..
havent got mine powered up yet...still waiting for parts.... :(

again, thanks for the build info....
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rmroza
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Post by rmroza »

"d95err - I've completed my build with bugg's pcb. Had a bit of oscillation at first, which was due to the input and output wires being too close at the footswitch. Easy fix and now it works flawlessly. I actually made it 2-channel, with a second footswitch to select between separate gain and volume controls."

1. That's cool you got it working
2. Great idea about switching gain and volume for 2 discrete settings, however, there is soo little difference in the original pedal in regard to the gain...that would be WAY more functional if you really could control the gain from plexi to jcm800, to hot-rodded (where the pedal is) instead of hot-rodded lower setting, to hot-rodded higher setting. :(

I still hven't circled back round. Just took my last dose of Z-pak for my cold I've been fighting for 2 weeks and have a few things to do yet before I get back on this, but I have 4 days left thru the weekend to see what is up.

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Optical
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Post by Optical »

It might be interesting to bypass the second and/or third clipping stages. Anyone tried this?

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Post by toneman »

Optical wrote:It might be interesting to bypass the second and/or third clipping stages. Anyone tried this?
Or....
put some midrange gyrators in between the stages :hmmm:

btw, tested some LEDs today:
red = 1.8v
green = 2.5-2.9v
blue = 3.0v
orange(yellow) = 1.8v

first pcb gets the red ones 8)

still......need.......more......parts........ :?
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roseblood11
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Post by roseblood11 »

Do we really have a 100% correct schematic now? Then it would be great, if a moderator could put a link to it in the first post - the thread has become rather long and partly confusing

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Post by d95err »

Picture of my "2-channel" build.
Image

Some notes:
  • The two gain pots are connected in series, with the footswitch shorting out the pot that is not used. The volume pots are in parallell, with the switch selecting which wiper is active.
  • I've moved around some of the pots (using regular pots instead of PCB pots) in order to get the two volume and gain pots next to each other.
  • I'm considering using an extra pole on the second footswitch to switch the overall gain level when I switch channels. For example by shorting out the trimmer, or by switching values on the first opamp stage (R4/R5 on bugg's schematic).
  • I built the circuit with regular 1/4W resistors, rather than the specified 1/8W. There is plenty of room for it on the PCB.
  • Opamp 1 and 3 are NE5532 and 2 is TL072. I haven't compared to all TL72 or other opamps yet, but they're on sockets so I guess I'll have to experiment some.
  • Build is actually not complete yet; I still need to add indicator LEDs for the footswitches.

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andlord
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Post by andlord »

Opamp 1 and 3 are NE5532 and 2 is TL072. I haven't compared to all TL72 or other opamps yet, but they're on sockets so I guess I'll have to experiment some.
Could you please comment on the sound with the NE5532s once you got to compare it with other op amps?
I have a bu**load of those and I was so stupid not to use sockets on this build. Would be nice to know if the hassle with changing to thise is worth it

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Post by POTL »

andlord wrote:
Opamp 1 and 3 are NE5532 and 2 is TL072. I haven't compared to all TL72 or other opamps yet, but they're on sockets so I guess I'll have to experiment some.
Could you please comment on the sound with the NE5532s once you got to compare it with other op amps?
I have a bu**load of those and I was so stupid not to use sockets on this build. Would be nice to know if the hassle with changing to thise is worth it
I compared
NE5532, LM833N, JRC4558D, TL082, TL072 (but forgot to install LF353)
As for me the difference in sound is, but it can not be called great.
TL082 / TL072 sound flat and cold, I did not like it
JRC4558D many call it the same sound, for me it's a bad sound and Lo-Fi, clearly expressed middle lacks clarity in Hi & Low
NE5532 / LM833N are quite similar, the best sound / noise ratio, the sound is the most pleasant. Between the last two I did not see much difference.

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andlord
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Post by andlord »

Thanks POTL. I guess in your test you replaced all op amps right?

Sounds like I have some desoldering to do...need the tl072s for the Diezel :D

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