Darkglass Electronics - Microtubes B3K  [traced]

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Re: Anyone with a Darkglass B3K willing to open her up for u

Postby Silver Blues » 22 Jan 2015, 16:54

Still might be cool. One can never have too many good overdrives :mrgreen: It's odd though, the files are labelled "B2K" but everywhere else says "B3K" and I can't find any information at all about the B2K...
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Darkglass Electronics - Microtubes B3K

Postby lars-musik » 01 Feb 2017, 16:12

Hi,

has anybody out there a schematic for the Darkglass B3K? That would be greatly appreciated! Thanks!
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Re: Darkglass B3K

Postby Cub » 01 Feb 2017, 18:03

No schematic, but I assume your goal is to build a clone ? Then you can save yourself a lot of time and order a kit with the PCB and parts of the GUMA-Drive from http://schalltechnik04.de/. Knobs and an enclosure are optional, either drilled and bare or completely drilled, painted and labelled. 8)
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Re: Darkglass B3K

Postby lars-musik » 02 Feb 2017, 16:06

Hi Cub,

yes, thanks. I knew that kit. But indeed I'd need a schematic to do my own. Preferably in a 1590a and without the relay bypass.

I found the Vintage model and guess I am just as happy with this one.

Cheers!
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Re: Darkglass B3K

Postby Silver Blues » 02 Feb 2017, 23:22

Going by what I had to go through with the VMT, this is going to be literally impossible to fit in a 1590A. I have photos of the GUMA boards but I'm not sure a good trace could be done with them, as much as I'd love to know.
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Re: Darkglass B3K

Postby Cub » 03 Feb 2017, 11:43

With a couple of layers of boards with SMD components, it should theoretically be possible. Practically, that's a different story. :lol:
Besides, a 1590A with side-mounted jacks isn't much less wide than a 1590B end-mounted jacks.
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Re: Darkglass B3K  [traced]

Postby miguelmoita » 26 Apr 2017, 04:38

Here is the schematic of the B3k. Very similar to the VMT that is already available on the forum. I did not test it yet, but I test the VMT and sounds awesome. So, I am confident for this one too.
I will make a tone transfer, test it and the post it here in a couple weeks.
Cheers
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Re: Darkglass B3K

Postby nezvers » 31 May 2017, 12:18

Sorry for my lack of knowledge but I don't see the source for VD and VDD which I assume are VR / (1/2Vcc).
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Re: Darkglass B3K

Postby olyaneko » 31 May 2017, 17:41

probably that's how it will be :roll:
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Re: Darkglass B3K

Postby miguelmoita » 02 Jun 2017, 05:36

Yes, you are right. I forgot!
That's the right place to put the VDD.

I just finished mine.
Sounds awesome!! I did not had the opportunity to compare with the original yet. But I am very satisfied with the sound of it. Its brutal like a true Darkglass.
I attached some photos. Just needs the decals now.

i just saw some errors and missing values in the schematic.
I used different JFETs than the J201 that I put in the schematic. I used the MMBFJ201. They are SMD, but I order from Musikding some little adapters that coverts to through hole footprint to make the tone transfer process easier.
I did not tried the J201 so I do not know if it sounds different or not.
I forgot the values for the Pots. Level: A100k; Blend: B100k. Drive: C100k
D1 and D2 I used 1N4148.
And I think that is all.

Cheers
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Re: Darkglass B3K

Postby olyaneko » 03 Jun 2017, 06:32

please, and can you give a PCB file for this circuit ?, ... mmm you can just take a picture-photo, I'll rewrite it later (for example in Sprint Layout, i can draw a little in this program), please :oops: ...
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Re: Darkglass B3K

Postby Silver Blues » 03 Jun 2017, 19:17

The MMBFJ201 are just J201, but in an SMD format. A great many people are using them as substitutes for the TO-92 J201s because they are far more consistent and easier to find.

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Re: Darkglass B3K

Postby miguelmoita » 03 Jun 2017, 21:06

ok Silver Blues. That's what I thought.
Actually I had some troubles with the inconcesty of the J201 in the past. That is why I did not think twice to use the MMBFJ201.

Olyaneko just give me a few days to organize the file. The drawing is a bit confusing because I used two PCBs (one on top of the other) to fit it on a 125B using PCB mount Pots. I think it will arise some doubts the way it is.

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Re: Darkglass B3K

Postby fersynes » 08 Jun 2017, 05:46

Could you please post the PCB and layout?
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Re: Darkglass B3K

Postby olyaneko » 08 Jun 2017, 11:12

mmm, is that you to me ? :roll:, i still do not have them :oops: ...
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Re: Darkglass B3K

Postby miguelmoita » 09 Jun 2017, 21:06

Hello all,
Here it is! :D
Sorry about the delay. I had a lot of work this week.
Just a few hints. The VDD connects to the lug 3 of the level pot and lug 2 and 1 of the Drive pot. G2 is just another ground terminal, ignore it if you want.
If you have any questions just let me know.

I had the opportunity to experiment with different basses and amps during this week and I notice some inconsistency with passive and active basses. Passive sounds a lot better. I also mount the VMT and is way more consistent on this. Sooo, now I am not sure that everything is ok. I am thinking to make a new one to figure it out, but it will take a while. So, it will be very nice that you try it and let me know your opinions.

Cheers,
Miguel
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Re: Darkglass B3K

Postby olyaneko » 10 Jun 2017, 07:25

nyaaaa, a tremendous thank you :oops: ,...mmm, and the red bar in the drawing is a jumper ?, right ? :oops: :oops: ...
...mmm, and I'm on the drawing where to connect the toggle switch "Attack" is not found :oops: :oops: ,...oops, i'm sorry, it turns out "Boost" was named, it's me inattentive :oops: :oops: :oops: ...
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Re: Darkglass B3K

Postby fersynes » 10 Jun 2017, 08:06

Thank you so much! I Will try it and tell what happen with my active bass
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Re: Darkglass B3K

Postby miguelmoita » 10 Jun 2017, 15:59

You're welcome guys! :)

Yes olyaneko, the red bar is a jumper and Boost switch is the Attack.
One more thing that I forgot to warn. Lug 2 of Level pot connects to lug 3 of Blend pot as you can see in the schematic.

Go for it fersynes. :) I'll be waiting your feedback.

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Re: Darkglass B3K

Postby fersynes » 29 Jun 2017, 06:55

Wells I built ir and the controls are working but there is a constant sound thicking (mybe a shortcut) like "tuktuktuktuktuk" that caries with the drive pot and Boost Switch. Still can't figure out what's the problem but Will try to debug it later or built a new one. I cheked all the wire conections mentioned and are right. Will tell if i make it. Sorry for my English. Cheers
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