Darkglass - Microtubes B3K / B7K [traced]
- Silver Blues
- Breadboard Brother
Still might be cool. One can never have too many good overdrives It's odd though, the files are labelled "B2K" but everywhere else says "B3K" and I can't find any information at all about the B2K...
- Cub
- Cap Cooler
No schematic, but I assume your goal is to build a clone ? Then you can save yourself a lot of time and order a kit with the PCB and parts of the GUMA-Drive from http://schalltechnik04.de/. Knobs and an enclosure are optional, either drilled and bare or completely drilled, painted and labelled.
I wish I were a chestnut tree, nourished by the sun.
With twigs and leaves and branches and conkers by the ton.
With twigs and leaves and branches and conkers by the ton.
Hi Cub,
yes, thanks. I knew that kit. But indeed I'd need a schematic to do my own. Preferably in a 1590a and without the relay bypass.
I found the Vintage model and guess I am just as happy with this one.
Cheers!
yes, thanks. I knew that kit. But indeed I'd need a schematic to do my own. Preferably in a 1590a and without the relay bypass.
I found the Vintage model and guess I am just as happy with this one.
Cheers!
- Silver Blues
- Breadboard Brother
Going by what I had to go through with the VMT, this is going to be literally impossible to fit in a 1590A. I have photos of the GUMA boards but I'm not sure a good trace could be done with them, as much as I'd love to know.
- Cub
- Cap Cooler
With a couple of layers of boards with SMD components, it should theoretically be possible. Practically, that's a different story.
Besides, a 1590A with side-mounted jacks isn't much less wide than a 1590B end-mounted jacks.
Besides, a 1590A with side-mounted jacks isn't much less wide than a 1590B end-mounted jacks.
I wish I were a chestnut tree, nourished by the sun.
With twigs and leaves and branches and conkers by the ton.
With twigs and leaves and branches and conkers by the ton.
Yes, you are right. I forgot!
That's the right place to put the VDD.
I just finished mine.
Sounds awesome!! I did not had the opportunity to compare with the original yet. But I am very satisfied with the sound of it. Its brutal like a true Darkglass.
I attached some photos. Just needs the decals now.
i just saw some errors and missing values in the schematic.
I used different JFETs than the J201 that I put in the schematic. I used the MMBFJ201. They are SMD, but I order from Musikding some little adapters that coverts to through hole footprint to make the tone transfer process easier.
I did not tried the J201 so I do not know if it sounds different or not.
I forgot the values for the Pots. Level: A100k; Blend: B100k. Drive: C100k
D1 and D2 I used 1N4148.
And I think that is all.
Cheers
That's the right place to put the VDD.
I just finished mine.
Sounds awesome!! I did not had the opportunity to compare with the original yet. But I am very satisfied with the sound of it. Its brutal like a true Darkglass.
I attached some photos. Just needs the decals now.
i just saw some errors and missing values in the schematic.
I used different JFETs than the J201 that I put in the schematic. I used the MMBFJ201. They are SMD, but I order from Musikding some little adapters that coverts to through hole footprint to make the tone transfer process easier.
I did not tried the J201 so I do not know if it sounds different or not.
I forgot the values for the Pots. Level: A100k; Blend: B100k. Drive: C100k
D1 and D2 I used 1N4148.
And I think that is all.
Cheers
please, and can you give a PCB file for this circuit ?, ... mmm you can just take a picture-photo, I'll rewrite it later (for example in Sprint Layout, i can draw a little in this program), please ...
- Silver Blues
- Breadboard Brother
The MMBFJ201 are just J201, but in an SMD format. A great many people are using them as substitutes for the TO-92 J201s because they are far more consistent and easier to find.
ok Silver Blues. That's what I thought.
Actually I had some troubles with the inconcesty of the J201 in the past. That is why I did not think twice to use the MMBFJ201.
Olyaneko just give me a few days to organize the file. The drawing is a bit confusing because I used two PCBs (one on top of the other) to fit it on a 125B using PCB mount Pots. I think it will arise some doubts the way it is.
Actually I had some troubles with the inconcesty of the J201 in the past. That is why I did not think twice to use the MMBFJ201.
Olyaneko just give me a few days to organize the file. The drawing is a bit confusing because I used two PCBs (one on top of the other) to fit it on a 125B using PCB mount Pots. I think it will arise some doubts the way it is.
Hello all,
Here it is!
Sorry about the delay. I had a lot of work this week.
Just a few hints. The VDD connects to the lug 3 of the level pot and lug 2 and 1 of the Drive pot. G2 is just another ground terminal, ignore it if you want.
If you have any questions just let me know.
I had the opportunity to experiment with different basses and amps during this week and I notice some inconsistency with passive and active basses. Passive sounds a lot better. I also mount the VMT and is way more consistent on this. Sooo, now I am not sure that everything is ok. I am thinking to make a new one to figure it out, but it will take a while. So, it will be very nice that you try it and let me know your opinions.
Cheers,
Miguel
Here it is!
Sorry about the delay. I had a lot of work this week.
Just a few hints. The VDD connects to the lug 3 of the level pot and lug 2 and 1 of the Drive pot. G2 is just another ground terminal, ignore it if you want.
If you have any questions just let me know.
I had the opportunity to experiment with different basses and amps during this week and I notice some inconsistency with passive and active basses. Passive sounds a lot better. I also mount the VMT and is way more consistent on this. Sooo, now I am not sure that everything is ok. I am thinking to make a new one to figure it out, but it will take a while. So, it will be very nice that you try it and let me know your opinions.
Cheers,
Miguel
- Attachments
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- B3K.pdf
- (137.85 KiB) Downloaded 1574 times
nyaaaa, a tremendous thank you ,...mmm, and the red bar in the drawing is a jumper ?, right ? ...
...mmm, and I'm on the drawing where to connect the toggle switch "Attack" is not found ,...oops, i'm sorry, it turns out "Boost" was named, it's me inattentive ...
...mmm, and I'm on the drawing where to connect the toggle switch "Attack" is not found ,...oops, i'm sorry, it turns out "Boost" was named, it's me inattentive ...
You're welcome guys!
Yes olyaneko, the red bar is a jumper and Boost switch is the Attack.
One more thing that I forgot to warn. Lug 2 of Level pot connects to lug 3 of Blend pot as you can see in the schematic.
Go for it fersynes. I'll be waiting your feedback.
Yes olyaneko, the red bar is a jumper and Boost switch is the Attack.
One more thing that I forgot to warn. Lug 2 of Level pot connects to lug 3 of Blend pot as you can see in the schematic.
Go for it fersynes. I'll be waiting your feedback.
Wells I built ir and the controls are working but there is a constant sound thicking (mybe a shortcut) like "tuktuktuktuktuk" that caries with the drive pot and Boost Switch. Still can't figure out what's the problem but Will try to debug it later or built a new one. I cheked all the wire conections mentioned and are right. Will tell if i make it. Sorry for my English. Cheers