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Re: Friedman Dirty Shirley

PostPosted: 12 Nov 2017, 05:37
by Manfred
Branimir wrote:I understand, but that's with DC current, what about RF signal ? Can you sweep it with pink noise and voltage dependant 0,5 to 1V?

There must be some measurable difference between the 1N4148 and the Schottky

Exucuse my poor technical English!


The BAV99 contains two high speed switching diodes not Schottkys.
The diode capacitances of 1.5 Pikofarads for the BAV99 and 4 Pikofarads for the 1N4148,
having no influence on audio frequency range.

Re: Friedman - Dirty Shirley

PostPosted: 17 Nov 2017, 08:49
by HamishR
So I can use 1N4148s and I shouldn't be able to hear any difference from BAV99s. right? Thanks for documenting this.

Re: Friedman - Dirty Shirley

PostPosted: 19 Nov 2017, 00:09
by roseblood11
Has anybody built a version with the parts values of the be-od and the controls of the dirty shirley?

Maybe I'll try that - my pcb arrived today :D

Re: Friedman - Dirty Shirley

PostPosted: 20 Nov 2017, 03:02
by bugg
roseblood11 wrote:Has anybody built a version with the parts values of the be-od and the controls of the dirty shirley?

Maybe I'll try that - my pcb arrived today :D


The only significant component value difference (aside from an the new active midrange control) is the 27K (10K in the BEOD) resistor between the second clipping stage and the presence control...

I'd be interested to hear how it compares if you try it.

Re: Friedman - Dirty Shirley

PostPosted: 20 Nov 2017, 10:41
by Optical
bugg wrote:
roseblood11 wrote:Has anybody built a version with the parts values of the be-od and the controls of the dirty shirley?

Maybe I'll try that - my pcb arrived today :D


The only significant component value difference (aside from an the new active midrange control) is the 27K (10K in the BEOD) resistor between the second clipping stage and the presence control...

I'd be interested to hear how it compares if you try it.


I believe that 10k/27k resistor just sets the gain of that stage. Setting the internal trimpot of the BEOD to a low setting would achieve much the same thing...
Breaking out that trimpot and adding the mid control would produce a pedal capable of all the BEOD + DS tones

Re: Friedman - Dirty Shirley

PostPosted: 20 Nov 2017, 17:06
by Frabbio
Single sided layout for Dirty Shirley+Friedman BeOd in a box, this layout has the best of both worlds, there are 7 pcb mounted pots so you can build a BeOD with a mid control, or a DS with a tight knob, as said before the only notable difference is R16 in my schematic (10k for BEOD, 27k for DS).

I used through hole ICs this time, but i kept the smd diodes (BAV99). If somebody is interested i can post the same layout with normal diodes.
Board dimensions are 115x40mm, it should fit in a hammond bb enclosure.
Layout still unverified but it should work.

If you build it please report if everything is working as intended.

Good DIY!

Re: Friedman - Dirty Shirley

PostPosted: 21 Nov 2017, 18:24
by efe
Great idea :applause: I was planning to buy 2 PCBs and put them in a box but this is what i need

Re: Friedman - Dirty Shirley

PostPosted: 30 Nov 2017, 11:19
by HamishR
Well my PCBs from Buggs finally arrived today. As with the BE-OD, these are beautiful boards and very easy to work with. So now I have a Dirty Shirley, and so far I like it a lot more than the BE-OD, which is as I hoped. It's not as crazily gainy and has less white noise in the sound - just what I like. There is more guitar!

Testing the tight switch I think I have little use for it, so next time I build one of these I will just leave it off. One less hole to drill. I used 4 x 1N4148s and it sounds fantastic. I was looking for an overdrive to use with a fairly traditional style Strat and I think I have found it. I might use a 100uF filter on the next one rather than the 47 just to help out the low end. It won't make a huge difference I know, but on some ODs I find it helps to give Strats a little more thump.

Overall I can't think of much else I would change. I am keeping the trimmer at around 1/3 - I would leave it at zero but it seems that if I crack it open just a little I get more low end - is that just my imagination?

So thanks Buggs - great PCB, everything worked first time. :-)

Re: Friedman - Dirty Shirley

PostPosted: 03 Dec 2017, 06:56
by HamishR
Well I have now built my second Dirty Shirley! This time I used a 100uF instead of the 47 and NE5532 opamps instead of TL072s. I like this one even more. The NE5532s definitely add more midrange and sound a bit rounder. Bear in mind I do tend to play with lower gain levels unlike everyone else I know. But I can definitely hear more mids in the NE5532 version, and that can't be explained by a slightly bigger filter cap. It's a similar change I hear whenever I use the NE5532 over a TL072. I know I shouldn't be able to tell a difference but with the pedals side-by-side it's obvious.

If I am allowed one tiny criticism of the boards it's that the electros are so close to where a pot is soldered in it's difficult to avoid hitting them with your soldering iron. There is a 100nF cap on the other side so it's all a bit cramped. I did manage to avoid the caps but it's tight. And it's a very small criticism! :-)

Anyway both versions sound great. I like this one a whole lot more than the BE-OD.

Re: Friedman - Dirty Shirley

PostPosted: 03 Dec 2017, 10:36
by alexradium
ne5532 have diodes in input,pretty different from tl072

Re: Friedman - Dirty Shirley

PostPosted: 05 Jan 2018, 02:13
by dakrow
Bugg,I have a question about your board.
I soldered the LEDS backwards. I have since turned them around but I may have pulled a trace on the pcb.

LEDS L-3 & L-4 light up super bright.
But L-2 I really have to hit the strings hard to see any light (also it gets brighter if I turn the 100k trim down),
L-1 never lights up at all.
I guess I’m looking for confirmation its right?

And yes I’m getting a signal out of the pedal and it seems to be functioning properly.

Thanks

Re: Friedman - Dirty Shirley

PostPosted: 05 Jan 2018, 17:35
by tcpoint
HamishR wrote:Well I have now built my second Dirty Shirley! This time I used a 100uF instead of the 47 and NE5532 opamps instead of TL072s. I like this one even more. The NE5532s definitely add more midrange and sound a bit rounder. Bear in mind I do tend to play with lower gain levels unlike everyone else I know. But I can definitely hear more mids in the NE5532 version, and that can't be explained by a slightly bigger filter cap. It's a similar change I hear whenever I use the NE5532 over a TL072. I know I shouldn't be able to tell a difference but with the pedals side-by-side it's obvious.

If I am allowed one tiny criticism of the boards it's that the electros are so close to where a pot is soldered in it's difficult to avoid hitting them with your soldering iron. There is a 100nF cap on the other side so it's all a bit cramped. I did manage to avoid the caps but it's tight. And it's a very small criticism! :-)

Anyway both versions sound great. I like this one a whole lot more than the BE-OD.


I have to agree that I like it "a whole lot more than the BE-OD." I'm gonna have to roll some opamps. It sounds so good with the TL072s that I haven't rolled any opamps. I've got a ton to try.

Re: Friedman - Dirty Shirley

PostPosted: 07 Jan 2018, 14:29
by bugg
dakrow wrote:Bugg,I have a question about your board.


I don't have one of these built at the moment to confirm but L3 and L4 are hard clipping so it makes sense that they would light up brighter than the other two.
As far as L1 and L2, try it in a dark room to see if L1 is even faintly lighting.

You could temporarily solder an LED across lugs 1 and 3 of the gain pot (anode to lug 1), if it lights then the trace to L1 could possibly be damaged. If it doesn't light then everything is probably normal.

Re: Friedman - Dirty Shirley

PostPosted: 12 Feb 2018, 10:14
by Ross T
:?: I have a couple of the "Brown Betty" boards. It's Buggs BE-OD and Dirty Shirley on one PCB.

I just recieved a bunch of parts and I did not get any caps lower in value than 150pf. This PCB calls for a couple of 47pf's, a 120pf and a 220pf.
I'd hate to have make another order and pay shipping just to get these tiny caps. Not to mention I am very excited to complete this pedal and check it out.

Can I use 150pf's in place of the 47pf"s and the 120pf? and a 470pf for the 220pf? :?:

http://www.pedalpcb.com/docs/BrownBetty.pdf

Re: Friedman - Dirty Shirley

PostPosted: 12 Feb 2018, 19:45
by arivabox
Ross T wrote::?: I have a couple of the "Brown Betty" boards. It's Buggs BE-OD and Dirty Shirley on one PCB.

I just recieved a bunch of parts and I did not get any caps lower in value than 150pf. This PCB calls for a couple of 47pf's, a 120pf and a 220pf.
I'd hate to have make another order and pay shipping just to get these tiny caps. Not to mention I am very excited to complete this pedal and check it out.

Can I use 150pf's in place of the 47pf"s and the 120pf? and a 470pf for the 220pf? :?:

http://www.pedalpcb.com/docs/BrownBetty.pdf



You can use close values, 100-120, not very different, but 47-150 will be. Some say that they change 120 to 470 and the background becomes smaller, yes, but the sound also changes, if you hear well, who would not say anything. I recommend still stick to the values. Even the diodes 4148 give a different sound from Bat99.

Re: Friedman - Dirty Shirley

PostPosted: 17 Apr 2018, 07:30
by temol
My version of a Brown Betty.

Image Image

T.

Re: Friedman - Dirty Shirley

PostPosted: 17 Apr 2018, 12:53
by efe
How do you guys make artwork for your pedals ? Print outs, Decals or something else ? I am about the finish my Dirty Shirley and want to have a "decent" look.

Re: Friedman - Dirty Shirley

PostPosted: 17 Apr 2018, 13:48
by temol
efe wrote:How do you guys make artwork for your pedals ?


It depends... First you need the general idea of the finished pedal. Then - check available resources: enclosure (coating, bare alu), waterslide decal paper (white, transparent) or coloured paper (for example gold,silver, textured, etc). Next - open your favorite graphic program, draw the enclosure, controls, switches.. add some text, graphics, match the colours (text, knobs, enclosure colour). Make test print, check it against the enclosure, make final print, protect the print with transparent spray.. and that's all pretty much. But that's one of the possible ways of doing artwork. You can hand paint the artwork and text, you can etch, you can stamp the text with a punch letters and so on.

T.