Bearfoot - Honey Beest
First time poster, long time lurker.
I'm fairly confident about this schematic. The pedal was quite difficult to trace due to the spaghetti wiring, vertically soldered axial resistors, jumpers, null components, tight spacing around trannies etc... Basically the build is a disaster but it sounds fantastic. Some notes:
-- JFets are backwards from normal design. i don't believe this has any significance to the circuit.
-- The board was designed to fit other Bearfoot designs; Dyna Red, Sparkling Yellow, Emerald Green, Blue Berry, Model H etc.I included the jumpers on the schematic but excluded the opens / null components.
-- Voltage measurements are printed on the schematic. I was using a 1Spot and as many of you know, these run at a a bit high of a voltage, especially when under a light load. In my case, the 1Spot was putting out 9.2V when only loaded by the pedal.
-- Capacitor Values are all accurate. I used a Capacitance Meter to confirm.
-- I've done a side-by-side comparison of the Honey Beest, One Control Honeybee, Bearfoot Honeybee Clone (Aion Procyon) and the Honey Beest is the darkest of the bunch. Comparing the circuits, I can't explain why. I'm left thinking it's the Jfet front-end.
-- I still have the pedal if anyone has any questions.
Gutshots for reference:
I'm fairly confident about this schematic. The pedal was quite difficult to trace due to the spaghetti wiring, vertically soldered axial resistors, jumpers, null components, tight spacing around trannies etc... Basically the build is a disaster but it sounds fantastic. Some notes:
-- JFets are backwards from normal design. i don't believe this has any significance to the circuit.
-- The board was designed to fit other Bearfoot designs; Dyna Red, Sparkling Yellow, Emerald Green, Blue Berry, Model H etc.I included the jumpers on the schematic but excluded the opens / null components.
-- Voltage measurements are printed on the schematic. I was using a 1Spot and as many of you know, these run at a a bit high of a voltage, especially when under a light load. In my case, the 1Spot was putting out 9.2V when only loaded by the pedal.
-- Capacitor Values are all accurate. I used a Capacitance Meter to confirm.
-- I've done a side-by-side comparison of the Honey Beest, One Control Honeybee, Bearfoot Honeybee Clone (Aion Procyon) and the Honey Beest is the darkest of the bunch. Comparing the circuits, I can't explain why. I'm left thinking it's the Jfet front-end.
-- I still have the pedal if anyone has any questions.
Gutshots for reference:
- bajaman
- Old Solderhand
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schematic ????
I can't see one
I can't see one
be kind to all animals - especially human beings
- Manfred
- Tube Twister
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I did not see the image either on my notebook this morning,bajaman wrote:schematic ????
I can't see one
but now I can see it on my desktop PC.
- jalmonsalmon
- Solder Soldier
- storyboardist
- Breadboard Brother
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Never seen the source and drain reversed in a JFET design like this... In the pics it looks like the legs might be twisted around. You sure you got the pinout correct?
Not trying to be a backseat driver here. You're the one with it in front of you, I'm just confused.
Not trying to be a backseat driver here. You're the one with it in front of you, I'm just confused.
I was also thrown off by this. The board is designed for TO-18 rather than TO-92 package transistors, and the pins of the 2N5952 are awkwardly bent to fit.storyboardist wrote:Never seen the source and drain reversed in a JFET design like this... In the pics it looks like the legs might be twisted around. You sure you got the pinout correct?
The circuit is way too crammed for me to get a picture of pins. I had to do a little bending to even touch the DMM lead to the tranny pins.
Still, I'm certain about the Source and Drain being backwards. I must have re-checked this several dozen times.
If there is still serious just let me know and I'll check one final time.
I figured that out a few weeks back when comparing this to the Hot Rodded Honeybee, but forgot.roseblood11 wrote:C3! It's only 470pf in the honey bee.the Honey Beest is the darkest of the bunch
When I go to build a clone I'll definitely be building with the 470p value.
The circuit sounds perfect at high-gain, but is just a little too dark at low-gain.
On all of the Honey-esqe pedals I own, I keep the 'Nature' control maxed.
Come to think of it, I think a miller capacitor would be more effective here. Wouldn't that accomplish less treble-rolloff at lower gain and more at higher-gain?
- HamishR
- Breadboard Brother
I have built a Honey Bee with the nature pot split into a treble and a bass pot. The nature goes bassy in one direction and trebley in the other with ground in the middle. So all I did was take the bassy wire to it's own pot to get a bass and treble EQ. You can then make the pedal brighter and still keep all the low end you want. Of course then it's not a Honey Bee any more but who cares?
BTW I was starting to attempt a layout from your schematic but I'm a little confused at one point - Above where you have the two 4001 diodes you have a 1K in series with a 10K (R16 + R19). Should they connect to the diodes and the 22n or are they separate? Why couldn't I simply use a single 11K if they are indeed in series?
BTW I was starting to attempt a layout from your schematic but I'm a little confused at one point - Above where you have the two 4001 diodes you have a 1K in series with a 10K (R16 + R19). Should they connect to the diodes and the 22n or are they separate? Why couldn't I simply use a single 11K if they are indeed in series?
Last edited by HamishR on 13 Nov 2018, 04:37, edited 1 time in total.
I love the circuit despite the Nature control. It goes from woofy and unusable to a little extra treble sqeezed out.HamishR wrote:I have built a Honey Bee with the nature pot split into a treble and a bass pot. The nature goes bassy in one direction and trebley in the other with ground in the middle. So all I did was take the bassy wire to it's own pot to get a bass and treble EQ. You can then make the pedal brighter and still keep all the low end you want. Of course then it's not a Honey Bee any more but who cares?
It's a novel idea, and I appreciate Bjorn creating something new, but I much prefer how the Sweet Honey just puts a 5.6k Resistor to Virtual Ground in it's place; it's the perfect amount of Bass response.
- storyboardist
- Breadboard Brother
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- HamishR
- Breadboard Brother
Hey Daeg - thanks for the schematic! I drew this one up as well as the One Control HB (posted at Guitar FX Layouts) and again, i am sure that the 22uF cap at Nature 1 (C5) should be 2u2. I built t using the 2u2 and it sounds just like the Honey Beest I had. When building it I used the obvious alternatives for unusual values - 5K6 for 5K67 (unless that is a typo?), 2K7 for 2K6, 1N4001 for the 1N4007s... And it sounds fantastic. As you may expect, it sounds like a higher gain version of the HB. You can still get lower gain sounds from it though by putting Pregain at zero. Actually I think I like this one better than the original I had because this one seems to clean up in the low end better with the Nature control. The lows are still massive with Nature fully CCW but I can get great clear low strings by keeping it at noon.
Thanks!
Thanks!
- HamishR
- Breadboard Brother
Just seeing if I can attach my layout for the Honey Beest... It would be easy to swap the 2u2 cap on Nature 1 to match your schematic if you wanted, but I love how this sounds! I also swapped the input cap from 22n to 47 as on the Honey Bee. It doesn't make a huge difference but does help my Strat out a little.
- Ichabod_Crane
- Resistor Ronker
This pedal sounds interesting!
Is that veroboard layout verified?
Is that veroboard layout verified?