Thanks for the update ryanuk!ryanuk wrote:DeanM - yeah the schematics are incorrect; I'll try to update mine and repost. However, both of the layouts - single and double sided - are correct. Its just the schem that needs updating.
With ref to diodes - 914/4148 wont give the correct output from the MAX chip. I used shottkey diodes 1N5819. They worked great and gave just under 18V.
Keeley - Katana
- DeanM
- Resistor Ronker
Thanks - it's actually only my second proper build (have had a few still borns though, if I'm honest!). First was the SHO which I also posted. I'm a little meticulous and tend to spend a lot of time planning in my head and on paper before committing to housing. I'm happy with the structure of this and will probably use it for future builds, given the ability to run on 18v (as I prefer this given most pedals I'm building at the moment are 1 knob boosters).muhmood wrote:very neat!
Cheers again for the encouragement, there are many quality builders on here that I can only dream to compare with.
Hi,
I build the katana using mrkaploca's layout and a built-in powersupply like this one:
http://www.newtone-online.nl/forum/inde ... 219.0.html (for those who dont speak dutch, the diodes are swapped with 1N5817's to reach 17.55v)
The pull knob position sounds alright, but the clean mode is simply awesome. I actually like the way it gives a mild and clear overdrive when you set the knob at max, is there a way to add a master volume to the thing? Do i just have to run the output trough a pot?
Thanks,
Max
I build the katana using mrkaploca's layout and a built-in powersupply like this one:
http://www.newtone-online.nl/forum/inde ... 219.0.html (for those who dont speak dutch, the diodes are swapped with 1N5817's to reach 17.55v)
The pull knob position sounds alright, but the clean mode is simply awesome. I actually like the way it gives a mild and clear overdrive when you set the knob at max, is there a way to add a master volume to the thing? Do i just have to run the output trough a pot?
Thanks,
Max
- ryanuk
- Solder Soldier
Maxdemax wrote:Hi,
I build the katana using mrkaploca's layout and a built-in powersupply like this one:
http://www.newtone-online.nl/forum/inde ... 219.0.html (for those who dont speak dutch, the diodes are swapped with 1N5817's to reach 17.55v)
The pull knob position sounds alright, but the clean mode is simply awesome. I actually like the way it gives a mild and clear overdrive when you set the knob at max, is there a way to add a master volume to the thing? Do i just have to run the output trough a pot?
Thanks,
Max
Glad youre enjoying the Katana. I also used 1N5817 to get near 18v.
With regard to "master volume" the pot in the katana is already wired as a master vol.
Bit confused that you're only getting "mild and clear overdrive" at max. At max my katana goes into real crunchy overdrive. Not to meantion that its SERIOUS loud. Unity on my build is about 2-3 on the dial.
RyUK
Yeah, it's definitly loud My problem is that i already have to face my amp away from the audiance in order to play at a good sounding level. Hence the master vol question.
I probably ment the max usable setting, with the knob at 10 it just gets a little bit too muddy. is there perhaps an overdrive with a similar circuit? The loud settings just sound so great for playing 'not so loud' stuff
Too bad i built this for a friend, it was my first 'really proper' build, i will definitly make another for myself. Thanks for this thread, it's been of great help!
Max
I probably ment the max usable setting, with the knob at 10 it just gets a little bit too muddy. is there perhaps an overdrive with a similar circuit? The loud settings just sound so great for playing 'not so loud' stuff
Too bad i built this for a friend, it was my first 'really proper' build, i will definitly make another for myself. Thanks for this thread, it's been of great help!
Max
- rasta_maleek
- Resistor Ronker
Reviving the post. I'm looking for a new germanium protect.
Cheers.
Cheers.
jumping in the train just now ... any chance to get a corrected schematic for this? i know the layouts are ok, but then would it be possible to make the changes in the schematics so all the resources are clear? that would be awesome!
http://arnauddedecker.wix.com/qui-swing-je gypsy jazz band in belgium
i just finished it.I used 1n914 diodes and i have 16+ volts.Should i replace them with 1n5817 ?What is the sounding difference between 16 and 18 volts ?
- ryanuk
- Solder Soldier
dromilious
1n5817 should get you closer to 18v; you prob get a shade over 17v.
You prob wont hear a huge differences, if at all.
The voltage from the charge pump IC contributes to the gain (and volume to an extent?) of the circuit but Im not sure you can expect huge results here.
That said, I used 1n5817 and its LOUD!!!!
1n5817 should get you closer to 18v; you prob get a shade over 17v.
You prob wont hear a huge differences, if at all.
The voltage from the charge pump IC contributes to the gain (and volume to an extent?) of the circuit but Im not sure you can expect huge results here.
That said, I used 1n5817 and its LOUD!!!!
- monkeyxx
- Resistor Ronker
I'm sorry but...is this true???kdmay wrote: You'll note that the 15nf MKT caps fell victim to tired eyes and a hot soldering iron, which is impacting performance (they are taking too long to "charge" and there is a split second swell when I hit a note). Not to worry, the layout is such that I simply remove the switch and resolder in place. Obviously doesn't impact performance when not in signal path (i.e. off on DPDT switch).
I know a lot of effects I've made and used, like the Katana I've just built, seem to be sensitive to a high input signal, such as from a high output humbucker guitar, and tend to sag compress or "swell" as you've said. Is this all from me being sloppy with the soldering iron??? that would be a total mind warp. I just thought that some circuits were like that when overdriven. Or maybe I need to learn to be a lot more careful when soldering?
I like the Katana's compression with a strat, it's the perfect mild, almost invisible transparent overdrive tone, I used to use a Reverend Drivetrain II for that, but the Katana seems to do it just as nicely (in cap inserted "overdrive" mode or whatever it's called) With my high output humbucker guitars though the katana craps out and mushes up, in either clean or dirty mode.
I've got 9.4V on my Drains using a charge pump... maybe the source resistor mod you posted will do just the trick!
- monkeyxx
- Resistor Ronker
also I've got to say... with a nice vintage style strat on the bridge pickup... the Katana in "dirty" mode does a gorgeous pushed-amp old school compressed-bite sort of tone, like Syd Barrett or Buddy Holly, Beefheart, tones like that, you know that Fender guitar into a loudly set non-master volume amp sort of tone. I'm really impressed! I was about to kick myself in the teeth for building YET ANOTHER clean boost (they're just so easy!!) but this one delivered, and I'm glad I spent the time on it, now. I wouldn't even call it a clean boost only, I think it should be known more as a clean boost / light overdrive effect (which is one of my favorite sounds). I think Robert Keeley is on to something with his "like a tube amp" ad campaign regarding the qualities of Field Effect Transistors in gain circuits, but, I guess everybody should have known that by now, to some degree or another. I still want to build my first tube in a pedal box and see what that can do.
- monkeyxx
- Resistor Ronker
turns out the 10uF should go to Q1's source not Q2 as I was browsing IvIark's blog.
Well I spent some time with it and ended up putting the same switch (with both capacitors) on both of the FETs. On Q1 the sound is very nice, but much more mild and mellow. The same switch applied to Q2 gives a greasy biting attack with a bit more gain as I described in the previous post...so happy accident! I'll be boxing it up with both switches. They can work OK together in tandem but the sound can get a bit too saggy I'll probably just use one or the other
Well I spent some time with it and ended up putting the same switch (with both capacitors) on both of the FETs. On Q1 the sound is very nice, but much more mild and mellow. The same switch applied to Q2 gives a greasy biting attack with a bit more gain as I described in the previous post...so happy accident! I'll be boxing it up with both switches. They can work OK together in tandem but the sound can get a bit too saggy I'll probably just use one or the other
- monkeyxx
- Resistor Ronker
you could probably make one in 10 minutes by reversing one of the layouts. here's one, too, dunno if they got the overdrive switch on the right Q or not http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-38lRv_volBE/T ... briggs.jpgmxrmxr wrote:Is there a verified schematic for this pedal ?
don't think I showed off my build yet
Hello everybody, tread resurrection!!!
Where did you guys get the 1nf cap? Is this the tantalum cap or I'm wrong? If it is the tantalum cap the smallest I have found is 4.7 nf. Or everybody is using other type like silver mica or ceramic? Thanks for your answers!!!
Where did you guys get the 1nf cap? Is this the tantalum cap or I'm wrong? If it is the tantalum cap the smallest I have found is 4.7 nf. Or everybody is using other type like silver mica or ceramic? Thanks for your answers!!!