Catalinbread - Dirty Little Secret [traced]
- Lawnchair
- Solder Soldier
Just tried 5600p. Sounds really great too. A bit darker and a bit more gainy than 5000 as expected. 5200 might be the lick.
I think this is worthy of a second footswitch for lead boost. Would hate to increase the footprint though.
I think this is worthy of a second footswitch for lead boost. Would hate to increase the footprint though.
- Emanuele
- Breadboard Brother
To me also the 1M resistor on Q4 (Q3 if you go with SSRP config.) base is redundant..the gain pot makes the biasing needed (at least they did in that way on the real valve circuits, and in their FET conversion of course.. )
I don't agree.Emanuele wrote:To me also the 1M resistor on Q4 (Q3 if you go with SSRP config.) base is redundant..the gain pot makes the biasing needed (at least they did in that way on the real valve circuits, and in their FET conversion of course.. )
because of the 4.7n coupling cap, the gain pot is seperated from the base (in DC terms).
So, I don't think it has any effect on the bias.
- Emanuele
- Breadboard Brother
Ah ok, I didn't see that...mike_a wrote:I don't agree.Emanuele wrote:To me also the 1M resistor on Q4 (Q3 if you go with SSRP config.) base is redundant..the gain pot makes the biasing needed (at least they did in that way on the real valve circuits, and in their FET conversion of course.. )
because of the 4.7n coupling cap, the gain pot is seperated from the base (in DC terms).
So, I don't think it has any effect on the bias.
Where is C13?? Is it labeled as C23??ShortScaleMike wrote:
Layout fixed for 47pF cap. Refresh browser and/or delete cookies if you still see 100pF.
https://www.freestompboxes.org/download/file.php?id=3327
IggY wrote:Outsourced free R&D without having to ask questions!Seishin wrote:blupup8 wrote:Seishin wrote:Lawnchair wrote:I lost pad 2 on the gain and had to jump it. The pot had a 47p cap across 2&3 and it snaged the pad on the way out.
I'm sure C-bread will warranty that for me
Ack wat'd you do that for buddy? I probably won't cover the warranty but if you need a hand getting it back together feel free to give me a shout. nicholas (A) catalinbread.com
Oh Nicolas you are so helpful. Can you please post the schematics for all your pedals past present and future. That would be a big help.
I've thought about it. But the discovery process on FS.o is more enjoyable, no?
One could think of it that way, but that is little more than character projection. I am here enjoying the ride. I enjoy doing my own in house R&D too much to mindlessly sponge from FS.o, it is really great working with Howard in this capacity. He and I learn a lot along the way, not only about circuits, but expanding or vocabulary for tonality, and how to co-create. He and I have a combined 40 years of guitar playing and in that experience we know what we want in terms of a product. I do like all the insights shared by others on here so far and I appreciate even more the positive tenor of the presentation. I really like the work folks have put into "tribute" pedals too. I want to get my own for my office. But in the long run many are roads we've already traveled and decided to go a different path. Sometimes for simplicity sake, sometimes for marketability sake, sometimes there was just SOMETHING we heard that we couldn't put our finger on yet couldn't live without. I am happy to hang out here as long as we're all being gentlemen but I am not here to glean ideas to bring to the market place.
- ShortScaleMike
- Resistor Ronker
Information
Yes. It is misnumbered C23, as you can see, the original schematics weren't exactly legible.snoof wrote:Where is C13?? Is it labeled as C23??ShortScaleMike wrote:https://img.photobucket.com/albums/v48/ ... /dls-1.gif
Layout fixed for 47pF cap. Refresh browser and/or delete cookies if you still see 100pF.
https://www.freestompboxes.org/download/file.php?id=3327
- Lawnchair
- Solder Soldier
HEADS UP!!
If you built your own DLS the instructions for the mod should be lugs 2&3 of the gain pot. Same as the 47p cap.
On Nics site the two lugs identified in the pic are lugs 2 & 3 not 1 & 2. The pic is correct, just not the lug #s
If you built your own DLS the instructions for the mod should be lugs 2&3 of the gain pot. Same as the 47p cap.
On Nics site the two lugs identified in the pic are lugs 2 & 3 not 1 & 2. The pic is correct, just not the lug #s
- DougH
- Transistor Tuner
Nick, I really like your philosophy and love your prices. They are very reasonable and look to be well-built quality products. Even more importantly, from the vids I've seen they sound really good-esp the DLS.Seishin wrote: Somebody who wants cloth wire, tropical fish caps, and NOS unobtanium semiconductors is NOT going to be interested in Catalinbread products NO MATTER HOW GOOD THEY SOUND!
I'm glad to see more minibooster stuff in the commercial builds. For "marshall" tone they really are the way to go. It's funny... Ten years ago a small group of us were really having fun with these circuits. Glad to see the commercial world finally caught up...
"You have just tubescreamered or fuzzfaced yourself " -polarbearfx
- Lawnchair
- Solder Soldier
The NP should be just fine. I prefer the sound of polarized in the signal path. Might just be mojo bullshit.
As Nic suggested earlier, a 100pf mod cap sounds great too. Just a hint more gain and a wee bit smoother attack.
As Nic suggested earlier, a 100pf mod cap sounds great too. Just a hint more gain and a wee bit smoother attack.
DougH wrote:Nick, I really like your philosophy and love your prices. They are very reasonable and look to be well-built quality products. Even more importantly, from the vids I've seen they sound really good-esp the DLS.Seishin wrote: Somebody who wants cloth wire, tropical fish caps, and NOS unobtanium semiconductors is NOT going to be interested in Catalinbread products NO MATTER HOW GOOD THEY SOUND!
I'm glad to see more minibooster stuff in the commercial builds. For "marshall" tone they really are the way to go. It's funny... Ten years ago a small group of us were really having fun with these circuits. Glad to see the commercial world finally caught up...
10 years ago I too was having fun with these circuits! I remember PaulC's Fatbastard, which inspired my Habanero Fetish, which inspired the DLS.
Hey so I figured it out.... fuzz face worky better with 47p than 5000p. I think for playing without stacks in front the 5000-ish pf is the best, but with fuzz and stuff the low range values work the best. I did try the 1uf input cap on the card and it didn't fix the woofing out so I went back to the 2.2uf. Took me a while to realize it was the behavior of the 5000pf with the fuzz. Plus, I think that .01 output cap just woke up! It went from so-so to so-zo!Seishin wrote:
- Lawnchair
- Solder Soldier
No disrespect intended. But as sure as the sky is blue it's lugs 2&3. Please see Mikes Vero layout and my drawing. the top lug grounds through r8.Seishin wrote:Dude treble bleed should be on lugs 1 & 2!!! If you are talking about the picture on my blog you gotta flip it in yr head to visualize it properly!Lawnchair wrote:HEADS UP!!
If you built your own DLS the instructions for the mod should be lugs 2&3 of the gain pot. Same as the 47p cap.
On Nics site the two lugs identified in the pic are lugs 2 & 3 not 1 & 2. The pic is correct, just not the lug #s
I should keep it shut. For some reason I thought you were talking about my layout. :p Treble bleed is on the hot and wiper lugs.Lawnchair wrote:No disrespect intended. But as sure as the sky is blue it's lugs 2&3. Please see Mikes Vero layout and my drawing. the top lug grounds through r8.Seishin wrote:Dude treble bleed should be on lugs 1 & 2!!! If you are talking about the picture on my blog you gotta flip it in yr head to visualize it properly!Lawnchair wrote:HEADS UP!!
If you built your own DLS the instructions for the mod should be lugs 2&3 of the gain pot. Same as the 47p cap.
On Nics site the two lugs identified in the pic are lugs 2 & 3 not 1 & 2. The pic is correct, just not the lug #s
Nice! I had a feeling getting away from the Fuzz Face value would get you too far away from "the sound".kittycaster wrote:Hey so I figured it out.... fuzz face worky better with 47p than 5000p. I think for playing without stacks in front the 5000-ish pf is the best, but with fuzz and stuff the low range values work the best. I did try the 1uf input cap on the card and it didn't fix the woofing out so I went back to the 2.2uf. Took me a while to realize it was the behavior of the 5000pf with the fuzz. Plus, I think that .01 output cap just woke up! It went from so-so to so-zo!Seishin wrote:
Lawnchair wrote:The NP should be just fine. I prefer the sound of polarized in the signal path. Might just be mojo bullshit.
As Nic suggested earlier, a 100pf mod cap sounds great too. Just a hint more gain and a wee bit smoother attack.
Thanks guys. Is the same true for the .22uf for C3? I only have film caps in that value. I'm gonna socket both so I can swap them after I order the "right" ones.Seishin wrote:Nope should work great.
Anyone care to point me in the direction of a good link that explains electrolytics and their applications? I have a vague understanding, but that's about it
- roseblood11
- Tube Twister
Hi!
A film cap will work great.
In most cases, electrolytics are chosen because they´re a) smaller, b) cheaper or c) at hand...
http://www.wima.de/EN/technicalinformation.htm
http://www.bext.com/replace.htm
http://www.parasound.com/pdfs/JCinterview.pdf
This is a very good text, but it´s german:
http://www.gitarrenelektronik.de/index. ... &Itemid=93
regards, Immo
A film cap will work great.
In most cases, electrolytics are chosen because they´re a) smaller, b) cheaper or c) at hand...
http://www.wima.de/EN/technicalinformation.htm
http://www.bext.com/replace.htm
http://www.parasound.com/pdfs/JCinterview.pdf
This is a very good text, but it´s german:
http://www.gitarrenelektronik.de/index. ... &Itemid=93
regards, Immo