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Re: Toneczar - Openhaus

Posted: 17 Jun 2012, 08:22
by generalkustard
I'm in the UK and there aren't any (proper) electronic shops in my little town. Thanks for the links, I'll investigate. :thumbsup

Re: Toneczar - Openhaus

Posted: 17 Jun 2012, 10:07
by lefos21
generalkustard wrote:I'm in the UK and there aren't any (proper) electronic shops in my little town. Thanks for the links, I'll investigate. :thumbsup
Check this out http://www.buy-transistors.com/2n1306.html I just found it. The shipping to UK is ridiculous. I see that it isn't in stock so contact them to order it.

Re: Toneczar - Openhaus

Posted: 17 Jun 2012, 20:01
by generalkustard
I bought some OC141's last week and tested the HFE this evening, most are in the 150 range, a couple in the 230 range. A pleasant surprise as I didn't really know what I was buying and was kind of expecting to see something mediocre like an HFE of 80. Going to try these in the Openhaus clone if I ever get the thing to work. A crappy 40watt, made in China soldering iron and a roll of lead-free solder isn't the easiest way to proceed..not to mention shaky hands..dammit, I don't even have any flux. :oops:

Re: Toneczar - Openhaus

Posted: 17 Jun 2012, 20:54
by lefos21
Don't worry it's not so difficult, you'll make it work at last.
Now please someone tell us if it is possible to replace the 604ohm resistor ???

Re: Toneczar - Openhaus

Posted: 17 Jun 2012, 22:23
by generalkustard
lefos21 wrote:Don't worry it's not so difficult, you'll make it work at last.
Now please someone tell us if it is possible to replace the 604ohm resistor ???
I read through most of the rest of the Openhaus thread, apparently the 604r resistor was a mistake and it's actually a 1M. I checked the photo of the original pedal and sure enough, it's 1M.

Re: Toneczar - Openhaus

Posted: 18 Jun 2012, 00:03
by abfackeln
Are you referring to R29? I'm partially colorblind, but that sure looks like blue/black/yellow/black to me..... R30 is a 1M, however...

Re: Toneczar - Openhaus

Posted: 18 Jun 2012, 12:52
by generalkustard
abfackeln wrote:Are you referring to R29? I'm partially colorblind, but that sure looks like blue/black/yellow/black to me..... R30 is a 1M, however...
Oh yeah, you're right, it is 604r..I was looking at the wrong resistor. Where am I going to get a 604r from?

Re: Toneczar - Openhaus

Posted: 18 Jun 2012, 13:35
by abfackeln
Well, you can either tie two values together in series, or you can likely sub something reasonably close. I might have used a 590 in mine, can't remember. Put something in, if it doesn't sound right, swap it out. Never be afraid to experiment! I can't tell you how many times I've used values that were "close" to the schematic (and some nowhere even close), for both caps and resistors.

Re: Toneczar - Openhaus

Posted: 18 Jun 2012, 15:24
by lefos21
So can I put 2x 300ohm in series and it will be like 600ohm ???

Re: Toneczar - Openhaus

Posted: 18 Jun 2012, 17:13
by grrrunge
yep

Re: Toneczar - Openhaus

Posted: 18 Jun 2012, 18:45
by generalkustard
abfackeln wrote:Well, you can either tie two values together in series, or you can likely sub something reasonably close. I might have used a 590 in mine, can't remember. Put something in, if it doesn't sound right, swap it out. Never be afraid to experiment! I can't tell you how many times I've used values that were "close" to the schematic (and some nowhere even close), for both caps and resistors.
I also experiment with different values, but I assumed there must be an important reason for specifying an unusual value such as 604r. Not sure how to use 2 resistors in series on this layout, there isn't much space to add another resistor.

Re: Toneczar - Openhaus

Posted: 18 Jun 2012, 19:06
by lefos21
So...I think 300+300 is the best solution cause there are common, as cheap as usual and probably you won't see any difference.
Thanks guys for your help!

Re: Toneczar - Openhaus

Posted: 19 Jun 2012, 08:30
by generalkustard
What are the dimensions/ Hammond part number for the Openhaus clone box?

Re: Toneczar - Openhaus

Posted: 19 Jun 2012, 10:33
by abfackeln
Not sure which layout you're using, but as I stated earlier in the thread, I used the 1590S

Re: Toneczar - Openhaus

Posted: 19 Jun 2012, 11:59
by generalkustard
Thanks..Hammond do a lot of different sizes, I just wanted to be absolutely sure.

Re: Toneczar - Openhaus

Posted: 20 Jun 2012, 11:28
by generalkustard
I have so far been unable to source electrolytic caps for c1 and c2 according to abfackeln/kusi's vero layout (470nf, 25v) and I'm wondering from some of the pics of various people's "Openhaus" builds if 470nf is wrong and maybe it should be 470uf, there is at least one image on here with 470uf caps and others that look very large. Can anybody put me straight on this?

Re: Toneczar - Openhaus

Posted: 20 Jun 2012, 19:48
by Ang3lus
those are filter caps, should be uF, you can try 220uf, maybe it's enough.

Re: Toneczar - Openhaus

Posted: 20 Jun 2012, 22:42
by abfackeln
The parts list I included with the original schematic (back on page 7) shows 470uf/25v for C1 and C2. I didn't do the vero layout, so I can't take credit for that one (I suck at working with vero!)

Re: Toneczar - Openhaus

Posted: 21 Jun 2012, 07:14
by generalkustard
Thanks, you've been a great help. :applause:

Re: Toneczar - Openhaus

Posted: 22 Jun 2012, 16:28
by generalkustard
OK, I'm wiring up the pots according to the veroboard layout and I'm a little confused. There is a lead to bass 1 and a lead to bass 2,3.. Is it 2 or 3 or both? Same question goes for treble. :scratch: