Mad Professor Sweet Honey Overdrive [traced]
Btw, just a note, I don't see anything here that indicates that r2 is actually 51r. Looking at the pictures from both the japanese version and the original gooped one, It looks like r2 is 47 ohm (yellow-purple-black-gold-brown). The only other mention I see of 51R is from someone's "HBOD guesses" value box. Could someone confirm this?
- HEAD
- Resistor Ronker
Dude, we're talking about 4Ohm! In this application this shouldn't make any difference - it's even in the tolerance range of these carbon film resistors (5%) Mad Prof uses by chance. And stop caring about the capacitor types! As long you have the right values and you use film box (whatever) types an ceramic caps where he uese it should be just fine. No rocket science or mojo here.
Helge
Helge
Whoa! Didn't think it would be that explosive of a question. I'm by no means trying to be snooty about wanting only specific capacitors or about pointing out a 4 Ohm difference. Sorry if it came across that way. Just asking because I'm trying to be careful to do the build right and I wanted to know if little things like that are something I should be concerned about. Thanks for putting my worries to restHEAD wrote:Dude, we're talking about 4Ohm! In this application this shouldn't make any difference - it's even in the tolerance range of these carbon film resistors (5%) Mad Prof uses by chance. And stop caring about the capacitor types! As long you have the right values and you use film box (whatever) types an ceramic caps where he uese it should be just fine. No rocket science or mojo here.
Helge
- roseblood11
- Tube Twister
At last it´s your ears that should decide... If you would replace that resistor with maybe 470 ohms, you would hear a difference, because it limits the supply voltage of the circuit.
Talking about the type of caps is a religion for some people and bullshit for some others. I would say: Use simple polyester film caps where you can get the right values in 99% of all situations. Above that value range, use good electrolytics (Panasonic FC, Elna RFS...), if they are in the signal path and cheap ones if they are not. Sometimes it makes a small but audible difference if you replace smaller film caps with polystyrene (=cleaner) or with ceramic (=dirtier). For example, I use polysteren in ultraclean boosters, but ceramics in the feedbackloop of a tube screamer or a SHOD (the 100pF).
regards, Immo
Talking about the type of caps is a religion for some people and bullshit for some others. I would say: Use simple polyester film caps where you can get the right values in 99% of all situations. Above that value range, use good electrolytics (Panasonic FC, Elna RFS...), if they are in the signal path and cheap ones if they are not. Sometimes it makes a small but audible difference if you replace smaller film caps with polystyrene (=cleaner) or with ceramic (=dirtier). For example, I use polysteren in ultraclean boosters, but ceramics in the feedbackloop of a tube screamer or a SHOD (the 100pF).
regards, Immo
http://picasaweb.google.com/unitandunit ... 8368681362
http://picasaweb.google.com/unitandunit ... 7816219970
Hi! I made it"Sweet Honey mini"!
Thanks.
http://picasaweb.google.com/unitandunit ... 7816219970
Hi! I made it"Sweet Honey mini"!
Thanks.
hey guys,
I've just breadboarded this effect, using the parts listed
(op275 made by AnalogDevices, poly film and electrolytic caps, some red 3mm LEDs and 1n4007s. yeah, and resistors )
it seems to be built right, and the attack sounds right (and awesomely like the real SHOD demos, too), but there are some fuzzy trails, which are not very nice.
the same kinda weak fuzzy sound appeaps when playing softly or turning guitar volume down
so what could it be? defective opamp? clipping LEDs maybe?
I've just breadboarded this effect, using the parts listed
(op275 made by AnalogDevices, poly film and electrolytic caps, some red 3mm LEDs and 1n4007s. yeah, and resistors )
it seems to be built right, and the attack sounds right (and awesomely like the real SHOD demos, too), but there are some fuzzy trails, which are not very nice.
the same kinda weak fuzzy sound appeaps when playing softly or turning guitar volume down
so what could it be? defective opamp? clipping LEDs maybe?
don't really know what that was, but after actualy making this effect (pcb and all) i found it worked just fine
now this is totally my favorite OD (i also built it with footswitchable LPB in front, so this pedal and my tele are all i need in terms of overdrive, really)
so, anyway, thank you guys, you did a great job tracing this effect
now this is totally my favorite OD (i also built it with footswitchable LPB in front, so this pedal and my tele are all i need in terms of overdrive, really)
so, anyway, thank you guys, you did a great job tracing this effect
hi! this is my first post and i'm gonna make myself look like and idiot with it... but whatever. is it necessary to use red LEDs? i bought 3 of them, but i accidentally destroyed one and now i need to replace it somehow, but i dont want to order one LED, it would be crazy, as there is no shop with stuff like this in my town and i'd have to buy it via internet. but i could use blue LED from my PC speakers... so, is the difference between red and blue LEDs just the plastic cover or is it something magical inside that would make my sweet honey suck with blue LED?
- roseblood11
- Tube Twister
A few basics:
http://geofex.com/Article_Folders/TStech/tsxfram.htm
http://diy.musikding.de/content/view/12/13/
http://www.mylespaul.com/forums/pedals/ ... rcuit.html
Every diode change makes a difference...
Maybe you should use sockets and try different combinations!
http://geofex.com/Article_Folders/TStech/tsxfram.htm
http://diy.musikding.de/content/view/12/13/
http://www.mylespaul.com/forums/pedals/ ... rcuit.html
Every diode change makes a difference...
Maybe you should use sockets and try different combinations!
- roseblood11
- Tube Twister
Sometimes I hate that there is no Edit button...
https://www.diystompboxes.com/smfforum/ ... ic=82764.0
https://www.diystompboxes.com/smfforum/ ... ic=82764.0
yeah, by the way, nobody's posted that yet, so here's my pcb version of the SHOD. caution: this might remind you of something
and also, to add to the previous discussion: i've tried quite a few different types of LED's and they all sounded pretty similar to me, at least after 20 seconds required to change them. so i went with the yellow ones... you know, it's sweet HONEY overdrive
- Lonkero
- Solder Soldier
Information
I just put this on bredboard. Damn, one of the most dynamic pedals I've ever tried. But the basic tone is horrible! Much like Honey Bee it has this really annoying tone that sounds like a thousands bees were flying around you I guess BFJ really nailed the name right.
When I pick softly, the tone is good but hitting harder gives it this horrible mid-rangey bee tone. I was thinking how to alter this pedals basic sound without losing the great dynamics it has got. Any ideas guys? I tried changing the caps to smaller ones but that didn't help. Or maybe it's just that the great dynamics this design has comes with the price of the horrible bee tone
When I pick softly, the tone is good but hitting harder gives it this horrible mid-rangey bee tone. I was thinking how to alter this pedals basic sound without losing the great dynamics it has got. Any ideas guys? I tried changing the caps to smaller ones but that didn't help. Or maybe it's just that the great dynamics this design has comes with the price of the horrible bee tone
How bout using a yellow led and a red or blue to make it clip asymetrically?pete_po wrote:yeah, by the way, nobody's posted that yet, so here's my pcb version of the SHOD. caution: this might remind you of somethingand also, to add to the previous discussion: i've tried quite a few different types of LED's and they all sounded pretty similar to me, at least after 20 seconds required to change them. so i went with the yellow ones... you know, it's sweet HONEY overdrive
This is my first post since the forums got back online