Keeley - Katana
- ryanuk
- Solder Soldier
mrkaploca - if you can take a schematic, strip bits out and design your own layout, then I wouldnt say your a noobie!! Good work!!
my7of9 - my single layer layout is verified and working and I will post tonight (I'm in the UK so not sure when "tonight" is for you?? )
regards
RyanUK
my7of9 - my single layer layout is verified and working and I will post tonight (I'm in the UK so not sure when "tonight" is for you?? )
regards
RyanUK
- ryanuk
- Solder Soldier
Hi
Ok - attached is my single sided layout for the Katana.
I've attached the layout and PCB design; the PCB should be printed @ 100%. Its already mirrored.
This layout includes provision for an LED current limiting resistor (next to C1). The 3PDT switch has been ommited - this will have to be wired in "manually".
The switch at SW1 should be wired so the pads in each row connect for MORE BOOST.
VR1 pads for the volume pot.
R7 and R8 are standing on their ends.
I tested 17.6V @ the charge pump using 1N5819 diodes.
Related schematic can be found earlier in the thread.
I've built and tested this layout. Sounds GREAT!! Powerful with little noise. More volume and dirt with MORE BOOST.
Enjoy - let me know if you need anything further chaps!
RyUK
Ok - attached is my single sided layout for the Katana.
I've attached the layout and PCB design; the PCB should be printed @ 100%. Its already mirrored.
This layout includes provision for an LED current limiting resistor (next to C1). The 3PDT switch has been ommited - this will have to be wired in "manually".
The switch at SW1 should be wired so the pads in each row connect for MORE BOOST.
VR1 pads for the volume pot.
R7 and R8 are standing on their ends.
I tested 17.6V @ the charge pump using 1N5819 diodes.
Related schematic can be found earlier in the thread.
I've built and tested this layout. Sounds GREAT!! Powerful with little noise. More volume and dirt with MORE BOOST.
Enjoy - let me know if you need anything further chaps!
RyUK
- Attachments
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- Keeley Katana PCB Single Sided Layout PCB.pdf
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- Keeley Katana PCB Single Sided Layout.pdf
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- my7of9
- Breadboard Brother
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Wah Wah Wii Wa!
verrry nice
shematic and partlist would be you previous posted Keeley Katana Boost Schematic FINAL.pdf ?
verrry nice
shematic and partlist would be you previous posted Keeley Katana Boost Schematic FINAL.pdf ?
- ryanuk
- Solder Soldier
Yes - use the schem for reference but use 1N5819 for the diodes (not 914s as listed in the BOM).Camphausen wrote:Wah Wah Wii Wa!
verrry nice
shematic and partlist would be you previous posted Keeley Katana Boost Schematic FINAL.pdf ?
Also - just noted a minor error in the schematic that needs calrifying...
The Keeley double sided layout has 2 pads to the left of IC1. 1 pad traces to Q1 source, the other to Q2 source; these pads enable C4 to be switched in (to the source of Q1 or Q2) for BOOST. On my schematic, I've shown C4 being switch to Q2 however I've noticed that in the pics of actual units (earlier in thread) C4 is switched to Q1! I guess Rob Keeley wanted fleixibility in the design hence the 2 pads - I guess each pad gives a different sound. I suppose we cant assume that ALL units were wired with C4 switched to Q1 and not Q2.
To summarise, my schematic is incorrect, but the double sided layout is correct and includes both pads. The examples earlier in this thread both used the LOWER pad next to IC1 (Q1)
The single sided layout is correct and is based upon C4 being switch to Q1 in accordance with the examples earlier in the thread.
I'll post an amended schem shortly which will highlght this issue. Apologies for the confusion.
hey guys, I started building my katana clone with the veroboard design but the guy who send me the parts messed up the order.
He just send me one 2N 5458 transistor. I really want to complete the pedal so that I just have to swap out the transistor when the correct one arrives,
but because that may take a while, i was wondering if I could use the 2N 5952 that i have lying around as the 2nd transistor?
btw, thanks for the veroboard design ;D
He just send me one 2N 5458 transistor. I really want to complete the pedal so that I just have to swap out the transistor when the correct one arrives,
but because that may take a while, i was wondering if I could use the 2N 5952 that i have lying around as the 2nd transistor?
btw, thanks for the veroboard design ;D
Similar issue for me.....
Built this thing last night on breadboard (which I am now addicted to, so easy to use and quick!), but only had 2N5457 transistors and no 250k pots. So I used a 100k pot instead.
I really liked the results, but there was heaps of gain (or should I say boost) on tap! I was playing with different values, and settled on 1K5 Source resistors, which lowered the overall gain and had a little more clarity.
So, my questions are:
- would/should I make any substantial changes to accomodate the 2N5457 vs the 2N5458. There were differences according to the datasheet, but beyond my scope of understanding to be honest.
- why electrically does lowering the Source resistor reduce the boost/gain?
In any case, I quite like this boost. I don't care for the switchable caps though, which seems to be the consensus.....
Thanks in advance
Built this thing last night on breadboard (which I am now addicted to, so easy to use and quick!), but only had 2N5457 transistors and no 250k pots. So I used a 100k pot instead.
I really liked the results, but there was heaps of gain (or should I say boost) on tap! I was playing with different values, and settled on 1K5 Source resistors, which lowered the overall gain and had a little more clarity.
So, my questions are:
- would/should I make any substantial changes to accomodate the 2N5457 vs the 2N5458. There were differences according to the datasheet, but beyond my scope of understanding to be honest.
- why electrically does lowering the Source resistor reduce the boost/gain?
In any case, I quite like this boost. I don't care for the switchable caps though, which seems to be the consensus.....
Thanks in advance
hello,
iv'e built the vero version and it dosn't work
some leads:
i used 1N4001 like in the picture.
replaced the MAX1044 allready once cause i thought that was the problem... dosn't work.
tried to bypass the max1044 with direct 18V and it works!!!
iv'e checked the circut like ten times everything seems to be ok.
please help, i'm going crazyyyy .... what seems to be the problam?
iv'e built the vero version and it dosn't work
some leads:
i used 1N4001 like in the picture.
replaced the MAX1044 allready once cause i thought that was the problem... dosn't work.
tried to bypass the max1044 with direct 18V and it works!!!
iv'e checked the circut like ten times everything seems to be ok.
please help, i'm going crazyyyy .... what seems to be the problam?
- DeanM
- Resistor Ronker
Hmmm so both the schematics in this thread are wrong then? they both have C4 going to Q2! Is there an updated schematic?ryanuk wrote:
Also - just noted a minor error in the schematic that needs calrifying...
The Keeley double sided layout has 2 pads to the left of IC1. 1 pad traces to Q1 source, the other to Q2 source; these pads enable C4 to be switched in (to the source of Q1 or Q2) for BOOST. On my schematic, I've shown C4 being switch to Q2 however I've noticed that in the pics of actual units (earlier in thread) C4 is switched to Q1! I guess Rob Keeley wanted fleixibility in the design hence the 2 pads - I guess each pad gives a different sound. I suppose we cant assume that ALL units were wired with C4 switched to Q1 and not Q2.
To summarise, my schematic is incorrect, but the double sided layout is correct and includes both pads. The examples earlier in this thread both used the LOWER pad next to IC1 (Q1)
Cheers for the work!
- ryanuk
- Solder Soldier
DeanM - yeah the schematics are incorrect; I'll try to update mine and repost. However, both of the layouts - single and double sided - are correct. Its just the schem that needs updating.
With ref to diodes - 914/4148 wont give the correct output from the MAX chip. I used shottkey diodes 1N5819. They worked great and gave just under 18V.
With ref to diodes - 914/4148 wont give the correct output from the MAX chip. I used shottkey diodes 1N5819. They worked great and gave just under 18V.
Here is my Katana build.
Got a little tight up near the switches and vero, but I'm pretty pleased with the results. My aim was to replace the voltage doubler with 2 x 9v batteries, so I ended up going with a slighly larger than 1590B case, dimesions are: 118x60x40 (it helped that my local shop had these on sale for AU$7.50, so I grabbed four!!).
You'll also note the DC jack is on the bottom, which is probably a little unconventional but necessary given space contraints.
The switches are as follows:
1. Right = Source Resistor value between original @ 680ohm and 1k5. I found 1k5 quite nice for a bit less gain/dirt. Also works much better with the Source Bypass Cap (as 680R can get quite hairy), which brings me to switch 2.
2. Left = DPDT on/off/on for switching both Source Bypass Cap (1.5uf MKT and 22uf Electrolytic) and also output cap @ 15nf.
You'll note that the 15nf MKT caps fell victim to tired eyes and a hot soldering iron, which is impacting performance (they are taking too long to "charge" and there is a split second swell when I hit a note). Not to worry, the layout is such that I simply remove the switch and resolder in place. Obviously doesn't impact performance when not in signal path (i.e. off on DPDT switch).
Overall, I'm really happy with this pedal. It has been a long time in the housing, as I've been tweaking it using my prototyping enclosure for a while and really love what it does to my OD channel (I use a local Australian built plexi/Hiwatt style 50w combo).
Thanks to FSB for making this possible!!
Got a little tight up near the switches and vero, but I'm pretty pleased with the results. My aim was to replace the voltage doubler with 2 x 9v batteries, so I ended up going with a slighly larger than 1590B case, dimesions are: 118x60x40 (it helped that my local shop had these on sale for AU$7.50, so I grabbed four!!).
You'll also note the DC jack is on the bottom, which is probably a little unconventional but necessary given space contraints.
The switches are as follows:
1. Right = Source Resistor value between original @ 680ohm and 1k5. I found 1k5 quite nice for a bit less gain/dirt. Also works much better with the Source Bypass Cap (as 680R can get quite hairy), which brings me to switch 2.
2. Left = DPDT on/off/on for switching both Source Bypass Cap (1.5uf MKT and 22uf Electrolytic) and also output cap @ 15nf.
You'll note that the 15nf MKT caps fell victim to tired eyes and a hot soldering iron, which is impacting performance (they are taking too long to "charge" and there is a split second swell when I hit a note). Not to worry, the layout is such that I simply remove the switch and resolder in place. Obviously doesn't impact performance when not in signal path (i.e. off on DPDT switch).
Overall, I'm really happy with this pedal. It has been a long time in the housing, as I've been tweaking it using my prototyping enclosure for a while and really love what it does to my OD channel (I use a local Australian built plexi/Hiwatt style 50w combo).
Thanks to FSB for making this possible!!
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- quaternotetriplet
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what do you call those solid silver wires?kdmay wrote:Here is my Katana build.
Got a little tight up near the switches and vero, but I'm pretty pleased with the results. My aim was to replace the voltage doubler with 2 x 9v batteries, so I ended up going with a slighly larger than 1590B case, dimesions are: 118x60x40 (it helped that my local shop had these on sale for AU$7.50, so I grabbed four!!).
You'll also note the DC jack is on the bottom, which is probably a little unconventional but necessary given space contraints.
The switches are as follows:
1. Right = Source Resistor value between original @ 680ohm and 1k5. I found 1k5 quite nice for a bit less gain/dirt. Also works much better with the Source Bypass Cap (as 680R can get quite hairy), which brings me to switch 2.
2. Left = DPDT on/off/on for switching both Source Bypass Cap (1.5uf MKT and 22uf Electrolytic) and also output cap @ 15nf.
You'll note that the 15nf MKT caps fell victim to tired eyes and a hot soldering iron, which is impacting performance (they are taking too long to "charge" and there is a split second swell when I hit a note). Not to worry, the layout is such that I simply remove the switch and resolder in place. Obviously doesn't impact performance when not in signal path (i.e. off on DPDT switch).
Overall, I'm really happy with this pedal. It has been a long time in the housing, as I've been tweaking it using my prototyping enclosure for a while and really love what it does to my OD channel (I use a local Australian built plexi/Hiwatt style 50w combo).
Thanks to FSB for making this possible!!