MUFF Overdrive EH Nano series
Hi All,
Here's more informations about this little cheap, simple but really good sounding pedal : the MUFF Overdrive EH Nano.
I traced the schematic from the double-sided PCB. There is no SMD components in the unit (2011) :
This is the direct descendant of the 1969 MUFF-FUZZ, with the exception of C5 and C6, which were 0µ1 at that time, and of course the RF filters, which didn't existed. The MUFF Overdrive sounds even more mellow for these reasons.
I made some minor modifications, but no component change :
1 - I grounded the metal box. Surprisingly, it was not... It's better for hum protection.
2 - I put a more readable knob with an engraved index, for more easy setting on stage.
A+!
Here's more informations about this little cheap, simple but really good sounding pedal : the MUFF Overdrive EH Nano.
I traced the schematic from the double-sided PCB. There is no SMD components in the unit (2011) :
This is the direct descendant of the 1969 MUFF-FUZZ, with the exception of C5 and C6, which were 0µ1 at that time, and of course the RF filters, which didn't existed. The MUFF Overdrive sounds even more mellow for these reasons.
I made some minor modifications, but no component change :
1 - I grounded the metal box. Surprisingly, it was not... It's better for hum protection.
2 - I put a more readable knob with an engraved index, for more easy setting on stage.
A+!
- euronymous0001
- Breadboard Brother
what are those black cylinders near the LED?
These are the RF filters labelled FB1 and FB2 on the schematic (ferrite beads). You also find the same in the LPB-1 EH Nano series.euronymous0001 wrote:
what are those black cylinders near the LED?
A+!
- Dirk_Hendrik
- Old Solderhand
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Thanks. Nice schematic "handwriting". Very easy readable
- Hides-His-Eyes
- Tube Twister
NOT TRUE BYPASS
get the pitchforks chaps
get the pitchforks chaps
Testing, testing, won too fwee
I confirm that it is TRUE BYPASS : I checked it again to be sure a few minutes ago with my DMM and dummy jacks. When the effect is off, the FX input and output are both disconnected from the signal path : that's true by-pass. So I guessed for the rest of the switching to be somewhat similar to my schematic.Hides-His-Eyes wrote: NOT TRUE BYPASS
get the pitchforks chaps
But my guess was inaccurate : my schematic is effectively wrong about the switching - I hate those double-sided PCB painful to trace for declining sight people !
Rectification :
The output switching is correct.
The input switching is : ON = FX input to input jack, OFF = FX input to GND (FX muting).
The led switching cuts the GND to the led + R8 when OFF.
Good evening to "les garçons de fourches à foin",
Cheers,
A+!
- Nocentelli
- Tube Twister
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So are you saying the ferrite beads and 100p caps re NOT permanently in the signal path? I had a nano LPB-1 for a while, and I read up about it on some diyfx blog that was adamant these were permanently connected (presumably because the case is not grounded).
modman wrote: ↑ Let's hope it's not a hit, because soldering up the same pedal everyday, is a sad life. It's that same ole devilish double bind again...
Yes, that's it - I confirm that these RF filters are permanently connected into the signal path.Nocentelli wrote:So are you saying the ferrite beads and 100p caps re NOT permanently in the signal path? I had a nano LPB-1 for a while, and I read up about it on some diyfx blog that was adamant these were permanently connected (presumably because the case is not grounded).
So you have a permanent "taming" cap total value of 200p to GND (I checked it it with my FL-87V), to be compared with the 1000p to 1500p total capacity that often exists in the signal path (2 cables, 2-3 effects, that's what I measure usually). So you would have a little probable loss in the high treble range when FX in disengaged - I checked and found it negligible, almost in my setup.
Moreover, I read again the EH MUFF Overdrive small notice given with the unit :
"FOOTSWITCH - Selects whether the MUFF Overdrive is engaged or in True Bypass. The corresponding LED will be lit when the pedal is engaged, and dark when True Bypassed"... Nearly true, then...
So if we accept to discard the 200p taming capacity, the effect is checked as a True Bypass, as when the effect is disengaged, the IN and OUT of the FX have no more connection with the signal path...
A+!
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Hmmm, interesting about the "true bypass". Nice sleuthing!
I'd guess that the ferrite beads don't have any detrimental effect on tone. But, those caps... What do you think would happen if one were to just disconnect the taming caps from the circuit? Snip a leg (or two), perhaps?
I also wondered if you noticed any discernible improvement after your grounding mod. Thanks!
I'd guess that the ferrite beads don't have any detrimental effect on tone. But, those caps... What do you think would happen if one were to just disconnect the taming caps from the circuit? Snip a leg (or two), perhaps?
I also wondered if you noticed any discernible improvement after your grounding mod. Thanks!
You would probably have a little more treble, if any - I did not tried it, as the sound suits me as is...But, those caps... What do you think would happen if one were to just disconnect the taming caps from the circuit? Snip a leg (or two), perhaps?
At high playing volume, the unit is more quiet. At lower levels, there is no more hum when you touch the box with the hand. You may not experiment this improvement as tremendous, but non-grouding that box was an aberration for me !I also wondered if you noticed any discernible improvement after your grounding mod
A+!
- greigoroth
- Breadboard Brother
Sorry for the necro bump - how do you get the pcb out of the enclosure in these nano-style housings?
I was reluctant to do anything wild, but it looked like if you took the knob off and pushed hard enough it would drop right out? I can post pics if necessary.
Cheers!
I was reluctant to do anything wild, but it looked like if you took the knob off and pushed hard enough it would drop right out? I can post pics if necessary.
Cheers!
- allesz
- Cap Cooler
I had a poket metal muff for some time (not bad at all.... but I like to change).
To unbox it you have to remove the knob (I used a small flat screw driver) and unscrew the pot, jacks and the footswitch.
Then gently extract all the pakage from the box; the 9v jack is the hardest part, you will have to tilt a little the pcb in order to free this part of the circuit.
To unbox it you have to remove the knob (I used a small flat screw driver) and unscrew the pot, jacks and the footswitch.
Then gently extract all the pakage from the box; the 9v jack is the hardest part, you will have to tilt a little the pcb in order to free this part of the circuit.
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Is there anyway to get more midrange out of this pedal, I know it sounds cliche to add mods to the muff sound but I keep getting "lost" in the mix when ever I step on this pedal
- allesz
- Cap Cooler
Maybe try soldering a cap in parallel to R6.... try 100nF, 220nF, 270, 330.... don't put it bigger than 1uF because in this case you will get more gain, but on the wole bandwith of the guitar signal, loosing the mid boost effect.Andrew1591 wrote:Is there anyway to get more midrange out of this pedal, I know it sounds cliche to add mods to the muff sound but I keep getting "lost" in the mix when ever I step on this pedal
I read somewhere Q2 is soldered on the wrong side of the PCB: you can see its printing is mirrored on the up side. The transistor just can not do its job this way! It should be on the bottom side.
I didn't try yet (need to change some parts) but it makes sense for me.
I didn't try yet (need to change some parts) but it makes sense for me.
same question, thanks in advance!vax71 wrote:I read somewhere Q2 is soldered on the wrong side of the PCB: you can see its printing is mirrored on the up side. The transistor just can not do its job this way! It should be on the bottom side.
I didn't try yet (need to change some parts) but it makes sense for me.
So i got a used one out of curiosity despite having built it in the past.
The transistors havr the correct orientation that agrees with the schematics and the pcb markings!
The input cap is 68nf kai he putput cap is an 1u electrolytic.
Pcb was revision E.
Sounds great!!
The transistors havr the correct orientation that agrees with the schematics and the pcb markings!
The input cap is 68nf kai he putput cap is an 1u electrolytic.
Pcb was revision E.
Sounds great!!
Apologies for the typos
Last thing, chassis still not grounded, you might want to take care of that