Hand Soldered SMD
- drbob1
- Cap Cooler
I just can't get the image of that circuit board out of my mind: the size of a guitar pic. I do like the sound of analog effects and it's given me some ideas (although my hands shake far to much to solder SMD I suspect). Perhaps one of you guys wants to step up and get rich? All I ask is a lifetime supply of pedals...
1. Tonebender/FF dual pedal clone in the micro box (the one Malekko and Lovepedal are using for their trems and so on). Knobs on one side for FF, other for Tonebender, 3 way toggle (one/other/both) and bypass. Use the 5 transistor array?
2. Modular pedals: probably want to use trim pots for most functions because of the size issue, but use the bigger box with say 5 stomp switches for boost/TS9 or rat or Electra (with switch to change the order), PT2399 delay, PT2399 reverb, trem or chorus or flange. The end user could specify which board, and which controls are brought out to pots on the surface. Try and keep it in the normal depth package so it'll fit in a guitar case or gig bag. A input for a tap tempo pedal would be the icing on the cake!
3. Populated PCBs to install in guitars. A compressor and a boost would be no brainers, but adding a few other effects that sound good and work well would be killer!
1. Tonebender/FF dual pedal clone in the micro box (the one Malekko and Lovepedal are using for their trems and so on). Knobs on one side for FF, other for Tonebender, 3 way toggle (one/other/both) and bypass. Use the 5 transistor array?
2. Modular pedals: probably want to use trim pots for most functions because of the size issue, but use the bigger box with say 5 stomp switches for boost/TS9 or rat or Electra (with switch to change the order), PT2399 delay, PT2399 reverb, trem or chorus or flange. The end user could specify which board, and which controls are brought out to pots on the surface. Try and keep it in the normal depth package so it'll fit in a guitar case or gig bag. A input for a tap tempo pedal would be the icing on the cake!
3. Populated PCBs to install in guitars. A compressor and a boost would be no brainers, but adding a few other effects that sound good and work well would be killer!
- Jack Deville
- Resistor Ronker
Information
- Ice-9
- Degoop Doctor
Information
It's not too dificult to hand solder SMD projects. This is a picture of a programable digital FV-1 I made, it's done on a prototype ectched board , but a final PCB would make it look so much better. It can be done quite easily. The thread on this build is on the forum somewhere.drbob1 wrote:I just can't get the image of that circuit board out of my mind: the size of a guitar pic. I do like the sound of analog effects and it's given me some ideas (although my hands shake far to much to solder SMD I suspect). Perhaps one of you guys wants to step up and get rich? All I ask is a lifetime supply of pedals...
1. Tonebender/FF dual pedal clone in the micro box (the one Malekko and Lovepedal are using for their trems and so on). Knobs on one side for FF, other for Tonebender, 3 way toggle (one/other/both) and bypass. Use the 5 transistor array?
2. Modular pedals: probably want to use trim pots for most functions because of the size issue, but use the bigger box with say 5 stomp switches for boost/TS9 or rat or Electra (with switch to change the order), PT2399 delay, PT2399 reverb, trem or chorus or flange. The end user could specify which board, and which controls are brought out to pots on the surface. Try and keep it in the normal depth package so it'll fit in a guitar case or gig bag. A input for a tap tempo pedal would be the icing on the cake!
3. Populated PCBs to install in guitars. A compressor and a boost would be no brainers, but adding a few other effects that sound good and work well would be killer!
It's fairly straight forward, if you want to start it , press start. You can work out the rest of the controls for yourself !
No silicon heaven ? preposterous ! Where would all the calculators go ?
No silicon heaven ? preposterous ! Where would all the calculators go ?
Most of my prototypes are hand soldered 0805 SMD on Vero. I just find it easier and quicker than using through hole components.
I guess it helps that, about 6 years ago, I was working in an R&D facility where I was hand soldering prototypes with hundreds of components, mostly 0805, but some 0603. For small PCBs I hand applied solder paste with a syringe, placed the components and used a small infrared reflow oven, but the oven was too small for most projects. Most of the PCBs were four layer with internal power and ground.
I use a magnifier hood, but, after all, I am 61.
My wife, Mandy, is 22 years younger. She is a qualified technician too, and was a video camera repair expert when it was common practice to repair consumer equipment instead of exchanging PCBs. Changing 160 pin and TQFP SMD ICs, using a hot air tool was a normal part of her job.
I guess it helps that, about 6 years ago, I was working in an R&D facility where I was hand soldering prototypes with hundreds of components, mostly 0805, but some 0603. For small PCBs I hand applied solder paste with a syringe, placed the components and used a small infrared reflow oven, but the oven was too small for most projects. Most of the PCBs were four layer with internal power and ground.
I use a magnifier hood, but, after all, I am 61.
My wife, Mandy, is 22 years younger. She is a qualified technician too, and was a video camera repair expert when it was common practice to repair consumer equipment instead of exchanging PCBs. Changing 160 pin and TQFP SMD ICs, using a hot air tool was a normal part of her job.
- atreidesheir
- Diode Debunker
Jack Deville is a man among men. When I think of circuitry as art, I think of his boards.
"Contemplate it - on the tree of woe." :Thulsa Doom
- culturejam
- Old Solderhand
Information
I did Clay Jones OD clone (bufferless 808) with a SMD dual op amp and 1/8-watt resistors. It's close to the size of a pic:
And here's a MosFET booster I did:
And here's a MosFET booster I did:
- atreidesheir
- Diode Debunker
This is on the news box feature on a little site called http://www.circuitworkshop.com/forum/ (ahem).
[smilie=borgsmile.gif]You sold us out you traitor!
Who are they? What do they want?
This clearly shows they already control him. WIll someone please check him for a 1/4"sq 4558 implanted behind his head?I, for one, welcome our new SMD overlords.
[smilie=borgsmile.gif]You sold us out you traitor!
Who are they? What do they want?
"Contemplate it - on the tree of woe." :Thulsa Doom
- culturejam
- Old Solderhand
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- Hides-His-Eyes
- Tube Twister
Do you guys have to splooge flux everywhere to solder SMD like that? How do you hold it on to the board?!
Testing, testing, won too fwee
- DrNomis
- Old Solderhand
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That's exactly what I'd like to know, Hides-His-Eyes, everytime I've tried working with SMD I end up spending more time positioning the component than soldering it into place, and it's even worse when I haven't had my caffeine fix cause then the component ends up going all over the place like a mad woman's unmentionable cause my hands shake so much....
Genius is not all about 99% perspiration, and 1% inspiration - sometimes the solution is staring you right in the face.-Frequencycentral.
- atreidesheir
- Diode Debunker
Brockman, Zapp Branigan, and Culturejam? say it ain't so.
"Contemplate it - on the tree of woe." :Thulsa Doom
I apply a tiny amount of flux to each pad and use fine tweezers to hold the component while soldering.Hides-His-Eyes wrote:Do you guys have to splooge flux everywhere to solder SMD like that? How do you hold it on to the board?!
If I am replacing an IC, I use hot air to remove the IC, then I use wick to remove the solder from all pads. I apply a small amount of solder to one corner pad, then apply a very small amount of no-clean flux to all pads. Using tweezers, I align the IC and solder the one corner pin. Then, using very fine gauge solder, I solder the opposite corner and continue to work diagonally until all pins are soldered to their respective pads.
I have used this method to hand solder SOT363/TSSOP6 packages
http://www.nxp.com/documents/outline_dr ... 363_po.pdf Check out the dimensions.
You younger guys shouldn't have any trouble
- culturejam
- Old Solderhand
Information
I don't use any flux outside of what is in the solder core. I pre-tin the pads. Then use tweezers to hold the part steady and even. Once one side is soldered and cool, you can just hit the other side with the iron for a second and it's done.
Here is a clip of Mandy hand soldering SMD a couple of weeks ago.
https://youtu.be/PH88R9LuGek
We don't usually build pedals using this method. This was the first test of a new PCB. For production, we use hand applied solder paste, hand placed components and a combination of convection and forced hot air reflow.
https://youtu.be/PH88R9LuGek
We don't usually build pedals using this method. This was the first test of a new PCB. For production, we use hand applied solder paste, hand placed components and a combination of convection and forced hot air reflow.
- CodeMonk
- Degoop Doctor
I used to hold down SMD parts with an orange stick (a bit thicker than wooden Shish kabob sticks). They had chiseled ends.
And here's a tip for anyone soldering SMD by hand. This is for IC's. Never tried it with resistors and caps.
This is an odd one. So that you know this info is uhm...well, its well tested under the strictest standards on the planet.
Not bragging. But I will not deny I am proud of this accomplishment. No apologies for that.
Anyway...
I worked for NASA at JPL Pasadena, California. This was around 1987.
On our PCB, the resistors and caps were done in an oven.
IC's were done by hand.
My secret was this:
Cut a channel at the iron tip, like below:
You cut the channel so it is just a bit wider than the IC leads. And the forks should be over the solder pads.
This makes for a cleaner and faster soldering job.
We had to solder so damn many memory boards. 64 chips on each side. IC's on both sides.
I would do 3 boards for everyone else's 2 boards, with fewer mistakes using that cut tip.
Tips don't last as long though.
I thought Devi might be interested in giving this a shot.
And here's a tip for anyone soldering SMD by hand. This is for IC's. Never tried it with resistors and caps.
This is an odd one. So that you know this info is uhm...well, its well tested under the strictest standards on the planet.
Not bragging. But I will not deny I am proud of this accomplishment. No apologies for that.
Anyway...
I worked for NASA at JPL Pasadena, California. This was around 1987.
On our PCB, the resistors and caps were done in an oven.
IC's were done by hand.
My secret was this:
Cut a channel at the iron tip, like below:
You cut the channel so it is just a bit wider than the IC leads. And the forks should be over the solder pads.
This makes for a cleaner and faster soldering job.
We had to solder so damn many memory boards. 64 chips on each side. IC's on both sides.
I would do 3 boards for everyone else's 2 boards, with fewer mistakes using that cut tip.
Tips don't last as long though.
I thought Devi might be interested in giving this a shot.
Hakko have similar tips available.
It's no longer necessary to file your own. Maybe you started something
I may have already posted here (yeah, I'm getting older and don't always remember ) that I had a Metcal tweezer iron available where I worked 2003-2006. It was great for removing components, but not brilliant for soldering new parts in place.
It must have been interesting working at JPL.
It's no longer necessary to file your own. Maybe you started something
I may have already posted here (yeah, I'm getting older and don't always remember ) that I had a Metcal tweezer iron available where I worked 2003-2006. It was great for removing components, but not brilliant for soldering new parts in place.
It must have been interesting working at JPL.
- CodeMonk
- Degoop Doctor
That's a sexy tip (who but an electronics nerd would think that). I've been thinking about maybe doing some SMD builds.clinchfx wrote:Hakko have similar tips available.
It's no longer necessary to file your own. Maybe you started something
I may have already posted here (yeah, I'm getting older and don't always remember ) that I had a Metcal tweezer iron available where I worked 2003-2006. It was great for removing components, but not brilliant for soldering new parts in place.
It must have been interesting working at JPL.
And I may have already mentioned my working at JPL here before (I am up there in the years myself). I know I did on TGP (I told Donner I thought his and Bjorn's builds had piss poor quality. A few people jumped down my throat for that But I never insulted the audio quality).
Working at JPL was VERY cool.
During my schooling and certification classes (you had to pass cert or they "let you go"), we had one to one and a half hour lunches. I would hang out in the observation room of Mission Control. That was cool. Mostly 10 foot screen (they were huge anyway). Walter Koenig gave a speech there. JPL had done some graphic work for the then new Star Trek movie (forget which one).
I got a bunch of cool pictures from PR.
I lost $120+ one day during lunch (A bunch of us would play blackjack during lunch).
I got started in that field by taking a 6 week course at an occupational center. The instructor was also a tech at JPL. I followed in his footsteps 7 years later. I went back after getting hired at JPL (via an employment agency) He smiled.
I could go on and on about that place. I consider it the pinnacle of my work in electronics.
And I think I use far to many parentheses