so using a 25k-50k pot in the feedback loop of the output buffer would give something like an overall volume control?marshmellow wrote:Clean volume should be ever so slightly above unity gain. Input gain of 2 (360k/180k), output gain of 0,55 (12k/22k). If you want more you could reduce the 22k resistor. That would leave the effect volume unchanged and only boost the clean signal. If you want to boost both, increase the 12k resistor.
Mad Professor - Deep Blue Delay [traced]
- Seiche
- Old Solderhand
- marshmellow
- Cap Cooler
Si señor!
- mictester
- Old Solderhand
Information
Damn Windoze! Bits got chopped off the end of the list. However, I used the same component designations for both the Vero and the PCB versions, so the list is:Seiche wrote:Hi mictester,mictester wrote:
just a heads-up, the vero is missing a few part values, r7, c2, c5, c12, c13, c14, c15
cheers
R7 = 33R R16 = 2k2 C5 = 1µ C12 = 10n C13 = 22n C14 = 1µ C15 = 47n
Hope this helps!
"Why is it humming?" "Because it doesn't know the words!"
- Seiche
- Old Solderhand
yes, i figured you did and cross-checked them before ordering. what i did notice is that unfortunately the vero layout doesn't seem to fit in a 1590B-sized enclosure with a battery, even after leaving out the extra rows and columns at the edges. Might fit in 125B though, plus that might give the possiblity of putting the jacks on top.mictester wrote:Damn Windoze! Bits got chopped off the end of the list. However, I used the same component designations for both the Vero and the PCB versions, so the list is:
R7 = 33R R16 = 2k2 C5 = 1µ C12 = 10n C13 = 22n C14 = 1µ C15 = 47n
Hope this helps!
- mictester
- Old Solderhand
Information
I always leave room at the edges because I usually drill holes for mounting - I use nylon spacers, screws and nuts.Seiche wrote:yes, i figured you did and cross-checked them before ordering. what i did notice is that unfortunately the vero layout doesn't seem to fit in a 1590B-sized enclosure with a battery, even after leaving out the extra rows and columns at the edges. Might fit in 125B though, plus that might give the possiblity of putting the jacks on top.mictester wrote:Damn Windoze! Bits got chopped off the end of the list. However, I used the same component designations for both the Vero and the PCB versions, so the list is:
R7 = 33R R16 = 2k2 C5 = 1µ C12 = 10n C13 = 22n C14 = 1µ C15 = 47n
Hope this helps!
"Why is it humming?" "Because it doesn't know the words!"
- HEAD
- Resistor Ronker
... and furthermore: Operating this thing with a battery might not be the best idea. It simply draws too much current. I would never, ever use a battery for delays.
- andregarcia57
- Cap Cooler
oks!!!
- Seiche
- Old Solderhand
I redid the component list for my build to have all the numbers and have them in order(makes it easier to populate and troubleshoot). I also noticed the pcb version leaves out C22 and continues with C23, whereas C23 corresponds to C22 on the vero. A bit confusing, but not really a problem. I'm planning to start populating today.mictester wrote:Damn Windoze! Bits got chopped off the end of the list. However, I used the same component designations for both the Vero and the PCB versions, so the list is:Seiche wrote:Hi mictester,mictester wrote:
just a heads-up, the vero is missing a few part values, r7, c2, c5, c12, c13, c14, c15
cheers
R7 = 33R R16 = 2k2 C5 = 1µ C12 = 10n C13 = 22n C14 = 1µ C15 = 47n
Hope this helps!
- Seiche
- Old Solderhand
Almost done populating the vero board.
what if one would replace the 33R resistor with a jumper? Would that affect anything, like add noise or something?
what i can say is that the vero layout is a squeeze with green caps, everything barely fits. And I'm a little concerned about height when mouting this over the pots. Might have to use a 125B enclosure. I am gonna do the mod with the volume control. I was thinking about using a 10kB pot with a 2k in series.
what if one would replace the 33R resistor with a jumper? Would that affect anything, like add noise or something?
what i can say is that the vero layout is a squeeze with green caps, everything barely fits. And I'm a little concerned about height when mouting this over the pots. Might have to use a 125B enclosure. I am gonna do the mod with the volume control. I was thinking about using a 10kB pot with a 2k in series.
- culturejam
- Old Solderhand
Information
I doubt you'll hear much difference. That resistor will prevent "infinite" current draw (not likely an issue in this case), and it might help reduce noise if the pedal is on a daisy chain with 10 other effects.Seiche wrote:what if one would replace the 33R resistor with a jumper? Would that affect anything, like add noise or something?
For testing purposes, you're find with a jumper. Or with 47R or even 100R. At least in my own anecdotal experience, of course.
- Seiche
- Old Solderhand
"testing purposes"? what the hell are you talking about? this is going with me on the world tour!culturejam wrote:For testing purposes, you're find with a jumper. Or with 47R or even 100R. At least in my own anecdotal experience, of course.
I'll leave the jumper for now and put everything together. If there is a problem, i might take it apart and replace the jumper with the proper resistor. I'm too lazy to wait for another order or to go outside and buy a single resistor (that might not even do anything).
- Ghandi
- Solder Soldier
Hey guys,
I just had a peek inside a Deep Blue Delay,
the IC is a Analog Devices AD712, that's the chip that is also supposed to be in the Zendrive.
A very good, warm and at the same time hifi sounding op-amp that could add some of the warm sound to the dbd!
By the way I really like how that delay sounds!
Cheers
Ghandi
I just had a peek inside a Deep Blue Delay,
the IC is a Analog Devices AD712, that's the chip that is also supposed to be in the Zendrive.
A very good, warm and at the same time hifi sounding op-amp that could add some of the warm sound to the dbd!
By the way I really like how that delay sounds!
Cheers
Ghandi
- Seiche
- Old Solderhand
So I built this the other day.... it doesn't work.
Looking at the vero layout again comparing it to the schematic, i found that pin3 (as well as C19 and C22) of the pt2399 isn't grounded like it should be. I've added a connection in the vero I attached.
Also, after reading the datasheet of the voltage regulator, I think C23 and C24 (that aren't in the schematic, i guess mictester added them, but it seems like the original circuit worked without them) should be polarized and C24 should be 0.33uF. Not sure if that makes a difference though. (EDIT: just noticed, this has been discussed 1-2 pages back)
I will add the jumper and leave the caps for now and see if it works then.
Looking at the vero layout again comparing it to the schematic, i found that pin3 (as well as C19 and C22) of the pt2399 isn't grounded like it should be. I've added a connection in the vero I attached.
Also, after reading the datasheet of the voltage regulator, I think C23 and C24 (that aren't in the schematic, i guess mictester added them, but it seems like the original circuit worked without them) should be polarized and C24 should be 0.33uF. Not sure if that makes a difference though. (EDIT: just noticed, this has been discussed 1-2 pages back)
I will add the jumper and leave the caps for now and see if it works then.
- Seiche
- Old Solderhand
added the jumper, still no signal going through (led lighting up).
i measured the voltages with a 9.05v battery:
IC1 (TL072)
4.3 8.56
4.3 1.38
4.3 3.2
0 1.11
IC2 (Pt2399)
5.05 2.5
2.5 2.5
0 2.5
0.09 2.5
2.27 2.5
2.5 2.5
0.65 2.5
0.65 2.5
Reg
8.56
0
5.05
Regulator is as expected, IC1 looks fine, I think. IC2 i have no idea if the voltages are normal, i have no experience with them.
i measured the voltages with a 9.05v battery:
IC1 (TL072)
4.3 8.56
4.3 1.38
4.3 3.2
0 1.11
IC2 (Pt2399)
5.05 2.5
2.5 2.5
0 2.5
0.09 2.5
2.27 2.5
2.5 2.5
0.65 2.5
0.65 2.5
Reg
8.56
0
5.05
Regulator is as expected, IC1 looks fine, I think. IC2 i have no idea if the voltages are normal, i have no experience with them.
- marshmellow
- Cap Cooler
There is something wrong near the TL072. All pins but 4 and 8 should be somewhere around VB = 9V / 2.
- Seiche
- Old Solderhand
thanks man! I looked at pin 5 and noticed i didn't put the jumper in that connects it to v_ref. voltages are good now.marshmellow wrote:There is something wrong near the TL072. All pins but 4 and 8 should be somewhere around VB = 9V / 2.
anyway, off to round 2 of the debuggin. Now I get some signal through but only really really quiet. barely audible. And that's original signal and delays.
I figured there must be a wrong resistor somewhere, but they are all the right values (i checked the color code and measured them).
I changed the PT2399 (that i got from tayda) and same problem. When I hit the front end with a boost on full bore i can hear the delays better (still below unity) and they sound fine. I also changed the TL072 for another one. I checked the wiring, hidden trace cuts etc. (R18, C9 and C10).
what else could be wrong? should I shop for a couple of PT2399? Maybe I have to double check the wiring and vero traces once again. Sucks because i made it kind of neat, short wires and everything, and i have to disassemble the whole thing each time.
- Seiche
- Old Solderhand
checked wiring, vero traces, cap values and checked the vero layout with the schematic, to avoid further mistakes.
i guess i will be buying some pt2399 on monday (i hate sundays). Hopefully I can source them locally. I have read bad things about the Tayda ones when i googled them earlier. Guess there is a reason why they are only $ 0.50 vs. $ 3-4 every else. Hopefully this'll cure it.
i guess i will be buying some pt2399 on monday (i hate sundays). Hopefully I can source them locally. I have read bad things about the Tayda ones when i googled them earlier. Guess there is a reason why they are only $ 0.50 vs. $ 3-4 every else. Hopefully this'll cure it.
- rocklander
- Old Solderhand
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- my favorite amplifier: my jansen bassman 50
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<US$1.50 at futurlec.. that's all I've ever used.. not had a problem yet.
world's greatest tautologist ...in the world
Ronsonic wrote:...the lower the stakes the more vicious the combat.
atreidesheir wrote:He should be punched in the vagina.
- Seiche
- Old Solderhand
rockie, you have some experience with this circuit, no? the issues i described, could they originate from a bad chip or should I keep looking elsewhere in my build?rocklander wrote:<US$1.50 at futurlec.. that's all I've ever used.. not had a problem yet.
- rocklander
- Old Solderhand
Information
- Posts: 2726
- Joined: 18 Apr 2008, 11:33
- my favorite amplifier: my jansen bassman 50
- Completed builds: rebote 2.5; supreaux; odie; heartthrob tremolo; ross phaser; dr. boogey; thor; baja black toast; slow gear attack, rebote, tri-vibe, small clone, little angel, magnus modulus, echo base, hex fuzz, big muff, 22/7.
- Location: Rotorua, New Zealand
- Has thanked: 1406 times
- Been thanked: 231 times
- Contact:
well I'm not sure just making a pedal from the cct equates to experience as such.. I am a solder by numbers kinda guy sorry bro, so can't really offer any actual technical advice.
if I was to hazard a guess (and it would be totally that) I'd be inclined to be looking round the opamp. reason being, I would expect (and this is purely speculation) that a delay passes the original signal through, and then adds the repeats to that signal.. I'd expect that if there was an issue with the PT chip (based on my pure speculation) the repeats only would be quiet/effected.. so if both the original signal and the repeats are low vol then I'd be thinking it's elsewhere.. didn't say anything previously cos I am completely stabbing in the dark, and was hoping that someone who actually understands this circuit (or for that matter ANY cct) might be able to offer better advice.
I've built one (based on my layout) and it worked first time... I suspect there was a certain amount of luck involved though.
if I was to hazard a guess (and it would be totally that) I'd be inclined to be looking round the opamp. reason being, I would expect (and this is purely speculation) that a delay passes the original signal through, and then adds the repeats to that signal.. I'd expect that if there was an issue with the PT chip (based on my pure speculation) the repeats only would be quiet/effected.. so if both the original signal and the repeats are low vol then I'd be thinking it's elsewhere.. didn't say anything previously cos I am completely stabbing in the dark, and was hoping that someone who actually understands this circuit (or for that matter ANY cct) might be able to offer better advice.
I've built one (based on my layout) and it worked first time... I suspect there was a certain amount of luck involved though.
world's greatest tautologist ...in the world
Ronsonic wrote:...the lower the stakes the more vicious the combat.
atreidesheir wrote:He should be punched in the vagina.