IPC J-std soldering

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Post by Dirk_Hendrik »

The IPC J-std for soldering replaced the mil-spec guidelines to a very large extend worldwide. Although the standard is at revision E currently the D is still valid in many cases. I ran into the full D description here:
http://www.might.com.tw/comm/upfile/d_080506_09649.pdf

Aim should be, in all cases, to fucus on making all soldering and constuction to fall into class-3 quality.
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Post by diagrammatiks »

section 7.1.1.1

defect : donner.

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Post by chicago_mike »

I did J-std back in........2001. :shock:

I need to update. :)
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Post by Ice-9 »

Excellent document, I have just had a look through and it is amazingly thourgh, great pics showing good/bad soldering etc. :applause:
It's fairly straight forward, if you want to start it , press start. You can work out the rest of the controls for yourself !

No silicon heaven ? preposterous ! Where would all the calculators go ?

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Post by Dirk_Hendrik »

Thanks. I know. I "thought" I was pretty handy with soldering till I went through the IPC training and learned an awful lot more.

Especially that is why it surprises me so much that there's still so many who dive into many facets of building musical equipment but seem to take the soldering (and everything around it) for granted when the device works. As an example I hat to fix a nice sounding sweetsound mojovibe which broke down. Key to getting it up and running again was to resolder all solderjoints which were all damaged due to cutting the components leads through the solderjoint.

In an opposite manner products like Rocktron Intellifexes or current Ampeg amplifiers do show all evidence that the ones who run the PCB production line do know their standards. All joints (and the whole board) are virtually perfect, all joints are clean of flux residue.

Therfore only scanning through, knowing the existence of and using what information is usefull for your project will already make your build better and, in many cases, let it rise above many stuff that's considered "boutique". For the price of a few hours reading. That's a bargain!
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Post by lolbou »

Dirk_Hendrik wrote:As an example I hat to fix a nice sounding sweetsound mojovibe which broke down. Key to getting it up and running again was to resolder all solderjoints which were all damaged due to cutting the components leads through the solderjoint.
I did repair the electronic card in my gas furnace yesterday by remelting two cold solder joint on a relay coil. I had many intermittent fault, and BOTH of the pads were cracked.

On a side note, the rest of the board is absolutely flawless and fluxless solder-wise, but 4 solder joints looked different from the rest, like shinier and with traces of flux, and half cracked obviously.
- the two from the relay
- the two from the 24VDC filtering cap.

Needless to say I did remelt the capacitor's joints too.

Could it be considered as a volontary bad solder with planned obsolescence in mind? If the 24V fails, all relays on the board fail => furnace go in safe mode. If the badly soldered relay fails, lightning/flame detection board fails => safe mode too. Pretty annoying mode in cold times!

An average furnace repairman would just drop in a new board and rip off the average customer... If this is common practice, I just think it's lame...
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Post by deltafred »

lolbou wrote: On a side note, the rest of the board is absolutely flawless and fluxless solder-wise, but 4 solder joints looked different from the rest, like shinier and with traces of flux, and half cracked obviously.
- the two from the relay
- the two from the 24VDC filtering cap.

Needless to say I did remelt the capacitor's joints too.

Could it be considered as a volontary bad solder with planned obsolescence in mind? If the 24V fails, all relays on the board fail => furnace go in safe mode. If the badly soldered relay fails, lightning/flame detection board fails => safe mode too. Pretty annoying mode in cold times!

An average furnace repairman would just drop in a new board and rip off the average customer... If this is common practice, I just think it's lame...
It is common practice to fit and solder the bigger components by hand after all the small ones are fitted and soldered by a machine.

It is tempting to think that it is built in obsolescence but I suspect it is just poor workmanship.

The average furnace repairman knows nothing about solder joints (or electronics). He works at board level, swap the board if there is a fault on it, don't try and diagnose the fault.

I know two furnace repairmen and believe me it is far cheaper for you to have them swap the board than try and fix a fault on one, it would probably take them a week.
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Post by lolbou »

deltafred wrote:It is common practice to fit and solder the bigger components
Thing is there are 3 other relays on the board (two being identical to the faulty one)... Looks suspicious. Especially when the three other soldering pads from the saome relay are soldered like the rest of the board... :hmmm: :roll:
deltafred wrote:I know two furnace repairmen and believe me it is far cheaper for you to have them swap the board than try and fix a fault on one, it would probably take them a week.
:lol: The last one I called went to open it in front of me for a "good cleaning" when I bought the house and was a complete noob with furnaces. I had to reopen it at once to reassemble it properly, velieve it or not. It's the very last tile it has seen a "professional" in three years! :lol:

Anyway, knowing your soldering is definitely worthwhile, thanks again DH!
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Post by CodeMonk »

Browsed through it. Not bad.
Being as I plan to try to keep at least near the standards I was taught by NASA in the late 80's, I think I'll be OK.
(At least for my production stuff, as for prototype stuff, fuck it).

Pro-tip:
Figure 3-4
That is not the best way to wear a wristband.
The metal contact on the strap is underneath where the cord connects.
This should be on the underside of your wrist.
You skin generally has a higher moisture content on that side, hence a better connection.

(OK, so I'm being really, really picky)

Thanks for the post though DH.

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Post by deltafred »

lolbou wrote:... Looks suspicious. Especially when the three other soldering pads from the saome relay are soldered like the rest of the board... :hmmm: :roll:
That does look suspicious, I had misread your original post.
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Post by Ice-9 »

One thing thats always bothered me is cuttin component leads before or after soldering. At college in the 80's we were told to cut the leads AFTER soldering but at Marconi Radar where I worked that would be frowned upon as comprimising the solder joint . Isn't it strange how different methods are chosen in different areas of manufacture. I mean why teach something in education that the whole manufacture base say is wrong. :scratch:
It's fairly straight forward, if you want to start it , press start. You can work out the rest of the controls for yourself !

No silicon heaven ? preposterous ! Where would all the calculators go ?

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Post by CodeMonk »

Ice-9 wrote:One thing thats always bothered me is cuttin component leads before or after soldering. At college in the 80's we were told to cut the leads AFTER soldering but at Marconi Radar where I worked that would be frowned upon as comprimising the solder joint . Isn't it strange how different methods are chosen in different areas of manufacture. I mean why teach something in education that the whole manufacture base say is wrong. :scratch:
Cutting leads AFTER soldering exposes the bare copper (Sorry, captain obvious here).
Some companies don't care about that. Some do.
Re-flow for that was accepted at most companies I have worked at.

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