Ibanez - WH10-V2 Weeping Demon Wah [schematic]
Hi guys...
I just removed the three 2n2 capacitors and i'm not sure if I can tell the difference...
A shame I didn't give my Wh10v2 a good solid listen through before doing the mod. What are people's experience with this?
I THINK it sounds better!
What do they actually do?
Somebody also said that if you replace R11 (470k) with a 220k, then you can tame the boost somewhat (not sure if that's really need though - good to have it there in case needed).
So far nobody has mentioned the differences in C8 and C9 - can anyone explain this? (in layman's terms - i'm not a techie).
Cheers!
I just removed the three 2n2 capacitors and i'm not sure if I can tell the difference...
A shame I didn't give my Wh10v2 a good solid listen through before doing the mod. What are people's experience with this?
I THINK it sounds better!
What do they actually do?
Somebody also said that if you replace R11 (470k) with a 220k, then you can tame the boost somewhat (not sure if that's really need though - good to have it there in case needed).
So far nobody has mentioned the differences in C8 and C9 - can anyone explain this? (in layman's terms - i'm not a techie).
Cheers!
Hi everyone,
So i've decided to run true-bypass on my WH10v2 now.
Using this:
http://www.little-black-box.co.uk/Compo ... od_21.html
I get the diagram below.
Have a figured this all out correctly?
Specific challenges are the LED... does it even need connecting, or will it turn off/on without desoldering?
What about the resistor - to reduce popping , so I understand, should I use 1k, 4.7k ? Is it in the right place?
Thanks for your help!
So i've decided to run true-bypass on my WH10v2 now.
Using this:
http://www.little-black-box.co.uk/Compo ... od_21.html
I get the diagram below.
Have a figured this all out correctly?
Specific challenges are the LED... does it even need connecting, or will it turn off/on without desoldering?
What about the resistor - to reduce popping , so I understand, should I use 1k, 4.7k ? Is it in the right place?
Thanks for your help!
ok, woops, scratch all of that above - that diagram is garbage!
I completely forgot about the existing cables to the switch... anyway.
In the end, I used the diagram attached (from another forum) = SUCCESS!
Almost... the 3pdt is a TIGHT fit. Packing the PCB board back on top continuously give shorting problems/ issues (even after adding tape to the switch soldering).
So what I did in the end was completely dremel away the cross-hair knob inside the footpad (the one that touches the switch on the outside).
This enabled me to lift the 3pdt higher out of the way of the circuit board. In doing this, you have to remove one of the two foam strips underneath the toe of the footpad - a nice addition that enables more swing travel to the wah pedal.
As I've removed all the 2n2 capacitors already - I now have the perfect wah. this is a very well balanced, vocal wah. Its better than my Area 51 ! (I sold that a while ago!).
The true-bypass does not pop in my chain either...SWEEEEEET.
I completely forgot about the existing cables to the switch... anyway.
In the end, I used the diagram attached (from another forum) = SUCCESS!
Almost... the 3pdt is a TIGHT fit. Packing the PCB board back on top continuously give shorting problems/ issues (even after adding tape to the switch soldering).
So what I did in the end was completely dremel away the cross-hair knob inside the footpad (the one that touches the switch on the outside).
This enabled me to lift the 3pdt higher out of the way of the circuit board. In doing this, you have to remove one of the two foam strips underneath the toe of the footpad - a nice addition that enables more swing travel to the wah pedal.
As I've removed all the 2n2 capacitors already - I now have the perfect wah. this is a very well balanced, vocal wah. Its better than my Area 51 ! (I sold that a while ago!).
The true-bypass does not pop in my chain either...SWEEEEEET.
- Attachments
-
- wh10v2_bypass.pdf
- (166.72 KiB) Downloaded 534 times
- azrael
- Cap Cooler
Removed the caps in on WH-10 reissue for a friend already, but now I'm getting one for myself.
Borked switch, so I guess it's time to try true bypassing it? Thanks for the info, Goonierat!
Borked switch, so I guess it's time to try true bypassing it? Thanks for the info, Goonierat!
yeah, go for it - if I can do it, then anyone can.
You will need some grind of grinding tool to take away the metal 'cross-hairs' that touch the switch on the outside though... this allows you to lift the 3pdt switch a little higher
out of the casing, giving more room for the circuit board. If however, you can find a mini-3PPT, which i've never seen, then you might not need to do that.
good luck
You will need some grind of grinding tool to take away the metal 'cross-hairs' that touch the switch on the outside though... this allows you to lift the 3pdt switch a little higher
out of the casing, giving more room for the circuit board. If however, you can find a mini-3PPT, which i've never seen, then you might not need to do that.
good luck
- azrael
- Cap Cooler
This is supposedly smaller:
http://www.mammothelectronics.com/4SFS3 ... 0-1006.htm
But I'm not sure if it'll make a difference. I'll be able to ascertain what to do once it gets here sometime in the next week.
http://www.mammothelectronics.com/4SFS3 ... 0-1006.htm
But I'm not sure if it'll make a difference. I'll be able to ascertain what to do once it gets here sometime in the next week.
- Renegadrian
- Solder Soldier
I got the V1...Paid it not so much, bought used like 18 years ago...
- devastator
- Cap Cooler
A guy asked to rebuilt his wh10 , I'm little confuse with the Hendrik schematic . What control go to the dual pot ?
for now, here's how I wired the pedal :
the foot controlled pot (500K/50K). The 500K pot in the feedback loop of the AOP filter and the 50K in the front of the filter via the 2K2 resistor. The "depth" control is the 50K blend between "dry" and "filter sound" .
Is that right ?
In that way , the pedal doesn't sound like it sounded before ?
Is the LM358 important in that circuit ?
for now, here's how I wired the pedal :
the foot controlled pot (500K/50K). The 500K pot in the feedback loop of the AOP filter and the 50K in the front of the filter via the 2K2 resistor. The "depth" control is the 50K blend between "dry" and "filter sound" .
Is that right ?
In that way , the pedal doesn't sound like it sounded before ?
Is the LM358 important in that circuit ?
Maybe it sounds better now, but removing only caps and adding bypass is not a full modification.
The True bypass schematic from the internet is quite dangerous for you and for wah. So be carefull.
Anyway it's just about 5% of things you need to do to sound like this:
The True bypass schematic from the internet is quite dangerous for you and for wah. So be carefull.
Anyway it's just about 5% of things you need to do to sound like this:
- azrael
- Cap Cooler
Trying to find some more info on what was done the WH10....No luck.
Any chance you know more about it?
TBH, doesn't sound that different than mine...I TB'd mine, removed the caps, and added a bootstrapped input buffer.
Any chance you know more about it?
TBH, doesn't sound that different than mine...I TB'd mine, removed the caps, and added a bootstrapped input buffer.
All i know about it is:
Modified by Karaluch Custom http://www.facebook.com/karaluch.custom
This mod contains: TB, LED, Vintage+ Mod, Dynamic Mod and VolumeBoost Mod.
I found that info on stadium-arcadium forum.
Imho it smashes Wilson's Ten Spot II (I mean Ten Spot II not Ten Spot which is single pot) in so many ways
What is your opinion?
I hope you will find more info about it, and share it with us
Modified by Karaluch Custom http://www.facebook.com/karaluch.custom
This mod contains: TB, LED, Vintage+ Mod, Dynamic Mod and VolumeBoost Mod.
I found that info on stadium-arcadium forum.
Imho it smashes Wilson's Ten Spot II (I mean Ten Spot II not Ten Spot which is single pot) in so many ways
What is your opinion?
I hope you will find more info about it, and share it with us
Just look at this pic it's from SA forum.
https://img337.imageshack.us/img337/1540/dscn2020b.jpg
Hmm masked parts, no quick-soldering stuff, additional PCB board containing trimmer and switch.
It looks impressive. But dunno what does this "D'" (near switch) mean.
What do you think about it?
https://img337.imageshack.us/img337/1540/dscn2020b.jpg
Hmm masked parts, no quick-soldering stuff, additional PCB board containing trimmer and switch.
It looks impressive. But dunno what does this "D'" (near switch) mean.
What do you think about it?
- azrael
- Cap Cooler
I can't remember offhand where the caps are for sure, but I think those 4 "corner" blurs are just some caps that were removed. Looks like he modded the input buffer, as that middle part is exactly where I had to add some parts to bootstrap mine.
No idea what the little PCB is...
No idea what the little PCB is...
- Dirk_Hendrik
- Old Solderhand
Information
P1 and P2 is the dual pot. P3 is the depth at the side of the wah.devastator wrote:A guy asked to rebuilt his wh10 , I'm little confuse with the Hendrik schematic . What control go to the dual pot ?
As for V1 to V2 adaption,
Compare the schems and start soldering. It's a no-brainer/
I ve contacted with Karaluch Custom and i will receive my ibanez wh10v2 in a few days. So i do not need to use my black wh10 anymore. So if someone is interested in buying just contact me: inspire7@windowslive.com