I was curious about that...bajaman wrote:slight update to schematic - tight pot is now wired the right way around
tight and gain pots now wired as on the pcb
general tidy up
cheers
bajaman
Amptweaker - Tight Metal [traced]
- J0K3RX
- Degoop Doctor
- jymaze
- Resistor Ronker
Actually I don't like to let one leg of my pots floating and I always tie is to the wiper as a shortcut.
If you leave it untied it is a high impedance floating point, or like some people call it, an antenna!
If you leave it untied it is a high impedance floating point, or like some people call it, an antenna!
- J0K3RX
- Degoop Doctor
ggedamed wrote:Bajaman, I like your PCBs so much I could frame them and put them on the wall. This is what gets out of Sprint? Awesome.
Sprint is EASY!!! If I can use it then you know it's easy to use cause I ain't exactly the sharpest tool in the shed...
And yes, baja's PCB's are masterpieces
- azrael
- Cap Cooler
Here's my single sided layout. Tried to keep the pots close to edge for easy wiring. Couldn't be avoided with the Volume and Tone Pots, though.
I'll work on a double sided layout later, should get a bit smaller. This will fit in a 1590BB.
I posted my schematic, too, because there are a few changes. Flipped some opamps around, because it made it easier to layout. Also added another 100n decoupling cap.
I'll work on a double sided layout later, should get a bit smaller. This will fit in a 1590BB.
I posted my schematic, too, because there are a few changes. Flipped some opamps around, because it made it easier to layout. Also added another 100n decoupling cap.
- Attachments
-
- tight metalschem.pdf
- schematic
- (31.69 KiB) Downloaded 441 times
-
- tight metal.pdf
- PCB transfer
- (37.75 KiB) Downloaded 369 times
- bajaman
- Old Solderhand
Information
- Posts: 4549
- Joined: 26 Jun 2007, 21:18
- Location: New Brighton, Christchurch, NZ
- Has thanked: 595 times
- Been thanked: 2058 times
I discovered a minor error in my PCB layout (the wiring to the output socket was wrong - there was no track from the footswitch return pad to the output socket ).
So - here are the revised files - I called them FREESTOMPBOXES FIRM STEEL rev 2 to avoid any copyright infringement.
Sorry for any inconvenience caused - please delete the original files and use these ones Cheers
bajaman
So - here are the revised files - I called them FREESTOMPBOXES FIRM STEEL rev 2 to avoid any copyright infringement.
Sorry for any inconvenience caused - please delete the original files and use these ones Cheers
bajaman
be kind to all animals - especially human beings
- bajaman
- Old Solderhand
Information
- Posts: 4549
- Joined: 26 Jun 2007, 21:18
- Location: New Brighton, Christchurch, NZ
- Has thanked: 595 times
- Been thanked: 2058 times
These look like the slide switches perhaps
https://www.ebay.com/itm/SW21-20pcs-Min ... 51ada2c24f
https://www.ebay.com/itm/SW21-20pcs-Min ... 51ada2c24f
be kind to all animals - especially human beings
- J0K3RX
- Degoop Doctor
bajaman wrote:These look like the slide switches perhaps
https://www.ebay.com/itm/SW21-20pcs-Min ... 51ada2c24f
The switches are the only thing I think is cheap about this pedal... Not that they are "cheap" switches but they don't feel like they would be good for somebody who flips switches a lot... might fail sooner than a toggle.
Also, keep in mind that you will have to find a deep box or get creative if you are going to have board mounted pots, switches etc..
- bajaman
- Old Solderhand
Information
- Posts: 4549
- Joined: 26 Jun 2007, 21:18
- Location: New Brighton, Christchurch, NZ
- Has thanked: 595 times
- Been thanked: 2058 times
Here are the bitmap images for the FREESTOMPBOXES FIRM STEEL rev 2 PCB
bajaman
Cheersbajaman
be kind to all animals - especially human beings
- jymaze
- Resistor Ronker
I will try to make a one layer no frills layout too. I don't care about the LED's, or the effect loop, and I think the PSU is very overkill, there are also a couple places where some things can be optimized.
- J0K3RX
- Degoop Doctor
That will be a rare treat! I have never seen you make a layout...jymaze wrote:I will try to make a one layer no frills layout too. I don't care about the LED's, or the effect loop, and I think the PSU is very overkill, there are also a couple places where some things can be optimized.
I am surprised that IvIark has not worked up a vero yet!?
- bajaman
- Old Solderhand
Information
- Posts: 4549
- Joined: 26 Jun 2007, 21:18
- Location: New Brighton, Christchurch, NZ
- Has thanked: 595 times
- Been thanked: 2058 times
me tooI am surprised that IvIark has not worked up a vero yet!?
be kind to all animals - especially human beings
- azrael
- Cap Cooler
I think opamp circuits are always the hardest to put on Vero, haha. I can understand if a layout never gets made, there's a lot going on here, especially with the redundant voltage references.
- The G
- Grease Monkey
Jim, did you formed an opinion about Tight Metal? Especially versus the Black Forest or Engl MOSFET simulation.
I breadboarded it, but it was not enough time to nitpick it. It's still on the breadboard, so I'll look into it when time allows.
My first impression - you'll notice that I'm a lousy player even for bedroom, besides there's a high probability of breadboarding errors - is OK, a little too much sponginess for my taste. Relistening the Youtube clips I get the same feeling. And I definitely don't like the way noise gate cuts the signal - again I can here it on Youtube. I noticed some of the players are using an external noise gate in the loop. I also noticed no one used TIGHT beyond 35%. Right now I believe Black Forest sounds and feels way better, but I only tried at bedroom level.
I'll check the other voltages (the two references are close to 5.25V and 5.9V as calculated), then I'll try TLC2622 (I'm not having much hope with this as I didn't like the Sansamp clipping also) and then some op amps that behave better on clipping. Just for the sake of the DIYness.
Anyway, here is the clip (the GAIN/GATE is an A1M, and the MID is hard-wired in the THRASH position, most of the time is the bridge humbucker into the breadboard, then into a TDA7294 amp, recorded with a photo camera):
LATER EDIT:
Here's a simplified-for-my-lazy-brain schematic I used for breadboarding (wrong values on references, but you get the idea): EVEN LATER EDIT:
It just crossed my mind to use two LM317L as variable regulators for references.
I breadboarded it, but it was not enough time to nitpick it. It's still on the breadboard, so I'll look into it when time allows.
My first impression - you'll notice that I'm a lousy player even for bedroom, besides there's a high probability of breadboarding errors - is OK, a little too much sponginess for my taste. Relistening the Youtube clips I get the same feeling. And I definitely don't like the way noise gate cuts the signal - again I can here it on Youtube. I noticed some of the players are using an external noise gate in the loop. I also noticed no one used TIGHT beyond 35%. Right now I believe Black Forest sounds and feels way better, but I only tried at bedroom level.
I'll check the other voltages (the two references are close to 5.25V and 5.9V as calculated), then I'll try TLC2622 (I'm not having much hope with this as I didn't like the Sansamp clipping also) and then some op amps that behave better on clipping. Just for the sake of the DIYness.
Anyway, here is the clip (the GAIN/GATE is an A1M, and the MID is hard-wired in the THRASH position, most of the time is the bridge humbucker into the breadboard, then into a TDA7294 amp, recorded with a photo camera):
LATER EDIT:
I think the redundant voltage references are there only for laying-out purposes.azrael wrote:[...] there's a lot going on here, especially with the redundant voltage references.
Here's a simplified-for-my-lazy-brain schematic I used for breadboarding (wrong values on references, but you get the idea): EVEN LATER EDIT:
It just crossed my mind to use two LM317L as variable regulators for references.
- bajaman
- Old Solderhand
Information
- Posts: 4549
- Joined: 26 Jun 2007, 21:18
- Location: New Brighton, Christchurch, NZ
- Has thanked: 595 times
- Been thanked: 2058 times
It may help if you bypass the 150k resistor with a 22uf electro, if you use this simplified bias schemeHere's a simplified-for-my-lazy-brain schematic I used for breadboarding
cheers
bajaman
be kind to all animals - especially human beings
- J0K3RX
- Degoop Doctor
Sponginess? I don't hear it?? Sounds tight as a gnat's twat to me I like mine but it is the "real pedal" as I have not had enough time to build a clone yet... The real pedal has sh!t loads of gain!! Sounds really good in your clip! It's really smooth and tight to me, not as noisy and erratic as the Engl or BF. Has a lot of mid range even in the thrash setting which I like. I am not a big fan of opamp based distortions or high gain preamps but this one doesn't feel or sound like opamp to me... I need to put my original back together and play it more and build one asap...! I personally like to be able to control the gate independently so I will probably not use a dual gang pot. I only used very little gate if I use it at all.. I use it mostly for chuggin rhythm for stops and lower background noise.ggedamed wrote:Jim, did you formed an opinion about Tight Metal? Especially versus the Black Forest or Engl MOSFET simulation.
I breadboarded it, but it was not enough time to nitpick it. It's still on the breadboard, so I'll look into it when time allows.
My first impression - you'll notice that I'm a lousy player even for bedroom, besides there's a high probability of breadboarding errors - is OK, a little too much sponginess for my taste. Relistening the Youtube clips I get the same feeling. And I definitely don't like the way noise gate cuts the signal - again I can here it on Youtube. I noticed some of the players are using an external noise gate in the loop. I also noticed no one used TIGHT beyond 35%. Right now I believe Black Forest sounds and feels way better, but I only tried at bedroom level.
I'll check the other voltages (the two references are close to 5.25V and 5.9V as calculated), then I'll try TLC2622 (I'm not having much hope with this as I didn't like the Sansamp clipping also) and then some op amps that behave better on clipping. Just for the sake of the DIYness.
Anyway, here is the clip (the GAIN/GATE is an A1M, and the MID is hard-wired in the THRASH position, most of the time is the bridge humbucker into the breadboard, then into a TDA7294 amp, recorded with a photo camera):
LATER EDIT:I think the redundant voltage references are there only for laying-out purposes.azrael wrote:[...] there's a lot going on here, especially with the redundant voltage references.
Here's a simplified-for-my-lazy-brain schematic I used for breadboarding (wrong values on references, but you get the idea): EVEN LATER EDIT:
It just crossed my mind to use two LM317L as variable regulators for references.
- bajaman
- Old Solderhand
Information
- Posts: 4549
- Joined: 26 Jun 2007, 21:18
- Location: New Brighton, Christchurch, NZ
- Has thanked: 595 times
- Been thanked: 2058 times
the missing bypass capacitor is probably what is causing the sponginess
be kind to all animals - especially human beings
- bajaman
- Old Solderhand
Information
- Posts: 4549
- Joined: 26 Jun 2007, 21:18
- Location: New Brighton, Christchurch, NZ
- Has thanked: 595 times
- Been thanked: 2058 times
D5 floating on top layout drawing
be kind to all animals - especially human beings
- J0K3RX
- Degoop Doctor
yup noticed that right after I posted it.. fixed, thanks! Anything else that catches your eye? Asking because I figure you and jymaze pretty much know this like the back of your hands by now...bajaman wrote:D5 floating on top layout drawing