Amptweaker - Tight Metal [traced]
- jymaze
- Resistor Ronker
Ok Jok3rx, I'll try to check that layout this week.
Gegedamed, me neither, I don't hear any sponginess in that video clip! Super tight! If you want to hear sponginess, try a Big Muff Pi, that is sponginess.
Like Bajaman said, bypass you first voltage reference with a 22u cap. It is very important because without that you just introduced a very complex multi-feedback loop in the circuit!!!
Gegedamed, me neither, I don't hear any sponginess in that video clip! Super tight! If you want to hear sponginess, try a Big Muff Pi, that is sponginess.
Like Bajaman said, bypass you first voltage reference with a 22u cap. It is very important because without that you just introduced a very complex multi-feedback loop in the circuit!!!
- J0K3RX
- Degoop Doctor
jymaze wrote:Ok Jok3rx, I'll try to check that layout this week.
Gegedamed, me neither, I don't hear any sponginess in that video clip! Super tight! If you want to hear sponginess, try a Big Muff Pi, that is sponginess.
Like Bajaman said, bypass you first voltage reference with a 22u cap. It is very important because without that you just introduced a very complex multi-feedback loop in the circuit!!!
pakrat has it etched and half way populated... Apparently he has deep faith in my layouts? Poor guy has had so many duds with my stuff...
In my opinion you have to have some level of sponginess (not much) or it will be very unforgiving when you play lead... It's a fine line!
- jymaze
- Resistor Ronker
Agreed, and that is what I was wondering too... Is the tight metal any good for lead? It sounds like a rhythm oriented pedal to me.In my opinion you have to have some level of sponginess (not much) or it will be very unforgiving when you play lead... It's a fine line!
- J0K3RX
- Degoop Doctor
Well, I only played it briefly (5 min) before I ripped it to pieces but, it wasn't too bad for leads...jymaze wrote:Agreed, and that is what I was wondering too... Is the tight metal any good for lead? It sounds like a rhythm oriented pedal to me.In my opinion you have to have some level of sponginess (not much) or it will be very unforgiving when you play lead... It's a fine line!
For myself it would be nice to have the option of a tight control externally foot operated like a volume pedal for leads and rhythm or, buy a tight rock and rip
it to pieces and trace it I think that one is better for leads...
I wonder what different opamps will do say like the 4580's??
Skip to 3:13 and hear them both together... Is it just me or does that guy talking look like Weird Al?
- The G
- Grease Monkey
Thanks, Bajaman, I'll try it before the LM317L. I tried first with as few modifications as possible from the schematics in this thread.bajaman wrote:It may help if you bypass the 150k resistor with a 22uf electro, if you use this simplified bias scheme
cheers
bajaman
I'll try that too. I also have some LM4562s .J0K3RX wrote:[...]
I wonder what different opamps will do say like the 4580's??
[...]
- The G
- Grease Monkey
I really love breadboards - you can test anything in an instant.
I'd like to report that I tried it at 18V and all artifacts/sponginess/flabbines/whatever are gone, except those from the noise gate diodes closing/opening. I'll admit it is now on par with my YAJFET AMT/Black Forest style distortion. It has a really nice grind in it, maybe because of the crossover distortion in the noise gate.
I'll have to put the gate switch in (right now is always on).
I think I'll move the GAIN control on IC1B to see what kind of overdrive can it make. And maybe put it through a cabsim.
PCB-wise (layout-wise), I think the main issue that need to be dealt with will be the oscillations started from close signal tracks. True-bypass is a real feat on something with this much gain.
I'd like to report that I tried it at 18V and all artifacts/sponginess/flabbines/whatever are gone, except those from the noise gate diodes closing/opening. I'll admit it is now on par with my YAJFET AMT/Black Forest style distortion. It has a really nice grind in it, maybe because of the crossover distortion in the noise gate.
I'll have to put the gate switch in (right now is always on).
I think I'll move the GAIN control on IC1B to see what kind of overdrive can it make. And maybe put it through a cabsim.
PCB-wise (layout-wise), I think the main issue that need to be dealt with will be the oscillations started from close signal tracks. True-bypass is a real feat on something with this much gain.
- jymaze
- Resistor Ronker
Jok3rx,
Your single layer layout is very good. I am about 100% sure it is correct, except those 3 points:
1) Like Bajaman said, D5 is floating
2) The ground pad just above the +9V pad should be connected to the ground track
3) I would try to make the ground track thicker than a normal track wherever possible since it is a long one
4) I forgot 1 resistor when tracing and it is a 100k resistor from the Output pad to ground (to avoid pops). Schematic should be updated in consequence.
That is it! Now, would someone etch me one please?
Your single layer layout is very good. I am about 100% sure it is correct, except those 3 points:
1) Like Bajaman said, D5 is floating
2) The ground pad just above the +9V pad should be connected to the ground track
3) I would try to make the ground track thicker than a normal track wherever possible since it is a long one
4) I forgot 1 resistor when tracing and it is a 100k resistor from the Output pad to ground (to avoid pops). Schematic should be updated in consequence.
That is it! Now, would someone etch me one please?
- The G
- Grease Monkey
The full name is YAJFETD = Yet Another Junction Field Effect Transistor (JFET) Distortion .jymaze wrote:What is your YAJFET? Do you mind sharing the schematics?
It would be cool!
It's nothing new by any means. I said it before, it is the usual Dr. Boogie style chain of single JFET stages and it differs from Black Forest in minor details, both being started by the AMT L1 thread.
As the schematic itself is nothing to write home, I'll start a thread (you know I promised) with a well known schematic (maybe Black Forest ) and change it step-by-step according to my parts, tools and taste - beginner style, documenting and testing every step. The thread will result in a schematic and a PCB.
- bajaman
- Old Solderhand
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new corrected schematic with 100k fitted at output
be kind to all animals - especially human beings
- rcustoms
- Resistor Ronker
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hi guys ,my friend jim request to me another option to this great pedal ,in my version ,i use one quad op amp tl 074 and only one tl 072 ic.all pots and switches are on board.please verified .
i double checked ,and i think is ok but this layout is a really headache.
enjoy
i double checked ,and i think is ok but this layout is a really headache.
enjoy
- apollomusicservice
- Resistor Ronker
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On your schem C3 should be 33n, C12- 100p, C19-22n, C8-C11? (duplicated)rcustoms wrote:hi guys ,my friend jim request to me another option to this great pedal ,in my version ,i use one quad op amp tl 074 and only one tl 072 ic.all pots and switches are on board.please verified .
i double checked ,and i think is ok but this layout is a really headache.
enjoy
- rcustoms
- Resistor Ronker
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Ok here we go again, now with 1590BB enclosure layout
rcustoms
and the pdf correctionrcustoms
- bajaman
- Old Solderhand
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- Posts: 4549
- Joined: 26 Jun 2007, 21:18
- Location: New Brighton, Christchurch, NZ
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Been agonising over that bloody DC socket connection, the 47 ohm resistor (470J) and series 1N4007 diode connection etc.
The Amptweaker manual clearly states that the four control illuminating leds only light up when using an external DC power supply NOT when using a battery. Took me a wee while trying to figure out how this is done and the solution is elegantly simple . Here is how this is achieved
The cathode of the last led in the series chain connects to the +9v battery terminal - it is also connected to the switch contact terminal (where the +9v battery lead is normally connected) AND the centre pin terminal of the DC socket
ALSO connected to these two terminals is the cathode of the 1N4007 diode (the anode of this diode is then connected to the 47 ohm 1W resistor and this is then connected to the ring terminal of the input jack socket ).
The remaining DC socket terminal is then connected to the + 9V power rail main filter capacitor, op amp #8 pins and anode of the first led in the series chain, etc.
Brilliant
cheers
bajaman
The Amptweaker manual clearly states that the four control illuminating leds only light up when using an external DC power supply NOT when using a battery. Took me a wee while trying to figure out how this is done and the solution is elegantly simple . Here is how this is achieved
The cathode of the last led in the series chain connects to the +9v battery terminal - it is also connected to the switch contact terminal (where the +9v battery lead is normally connected) AND the centre pin terminal of the DC socket
ALSO connected to these two terminals is the cathode of the 1N4007 diode (the anode of this diode is then connected to the 47 ohm 1W resistor and this is then connected to the ring terminal of the input jack socket ).
The remaining DC socket terminal is then connected to the + 9V power rail main filter capacitor, op amp #8 pins and anode of the first led in the series chain, etc.
Brilliant
cheers
bajaman
be kind to all animals - especially human beings
- rcustoms
- Resistor Ronker
Information
I use eagle cad v 6.3 pro, then i create a pdf file with each part(pcb,layout,parts and schematics)and then open each pdf file with corel draw x6 and put together in one layout for guitar effects parts layout(like knobs,switches ,pots etc.) i use a pedal effects builder vector parts ,if you or anybody need some help ,i be glad to cooperate just (PM)jymaze wrote:Hey RC,
What software do you use to make your layouts? It looks nice!
- J0K3RX
- Degoop Doctor
I love that layout! And you used the TL074! Excellent work!!rcustoms wrote:I use eagle cad v 6.3 pro, then i create a pdf file with each part(pcb,layout,parts and schematics)and then open each pdf file with corel draw x6 and put together in one layout for guitar effects parts layout(like knobs,switches ,pots etc.) i use a pedal effects builder vector parts ,if you or anybody need some help ,i be glad to cooperate just (PM)jymaze wrote:Hey RC,
What software do you use to make your layouts? It looks nice!
- rcustoms
- Resistor Ronker
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you got itJ0K3RX wrote:Rafael,
Do you think you can put the ARMORED transfer only into scaled format in a pdf? I can't print it to scale in your pdf..?
Thanks,
~ Jim